A closer lookOn the right part of the controller, we can find the holes where the fixing screws will fit:
On the back of the case, we can see some ventilation holes, the buzzer mute jumper, the Celsius/Fahrenheit jumper switch, headers for all 6 temperature and fan channels, but also the power connector header:
If we remove the top cover of the controller, we can see on the inside that each power MOS has a separate aluminium heatsink, to avoid overheating and all the capacitors are placed in-line, for each channel; we do also see some cables that connect the first PCB with the second PCB:
The PCB in which the screen is also soldered has on it a little black buzzer and the blue components in the two corners are the switches that make us able to see information on the screen from the channels we want:
Here is also a view between the screen and the PCB:
The fan power cables have on one end the connector that will have to be installed in the controller, with 3 wires:
On the other end, each fan header is labelled, so we won't make mistakes and switch one channel with another:
The fan headers will fit both 3-pin and 4-pin (PWM) fans:
Here is how the back of the fan controller does look with all the fan power cables connected:
To be able to send power to the fan controller, we can use the power cable that comes with the device, which has on one end a MOLEX header, to plug directly into one of the PSU Molex connectors:
On the other end we can find the power connector that will connect to the fan controller; this is practically a floppy power connector and we can use directly the one from the PSU if it has one, without using the adapter at all:
All the temperature probes have their connectors labelled:
On the other end of the cables, we can find the probes wrapped in transparent protective tubes, to avoid damages before use and a second label:
Here is how the probe does look like with the protection removed:
The controller does come also with a user manual, which explains us the installation procedure: