Danger Den MAZE4 GPU Water Block Review

Water Cooling by KeithSuppe @ 2004-11-06

Want to overclock your graphics card? Want to replace that noisy stock cooling? We take a closer look at Danger Den?s MAZE4 water block to see if it can tame an ATI X800 Pro video card!

Introduction and EasyPCKit

Danger Den MAZE4 GPU water block and EasyPCKits Premium Lapping Kit


Madshrimps (c)



Some time ago Danger Den sent me their MAZE4 GPU water block; unfortunately I didn't have a card worthy of its installation. My Asus V9950 was an excellent card and in fact its extensive copper heatsink and fan design were quite effective. So the MAZE4 remained boxed except when I removed it to take photos.

Recently I purchased a Sapphire X800 Pro, and while this was an excellent card, HSF left much to be desired. Once I began overclocking, problems arose. At higher clock speeds the card began producing more artifacts then you could find on a Mayan dig.

Using Wizzard's excellent ATI-Tool "Find Max Core" / "Find Max Mem" feature, I ended up approximately with 582Mhz core and 559MHz memory (up from 472/445MHz respectfully). I approximate because in both cases I terminated the test prior to the crash stage. Obviously this card had some OC potential, but insufficient cooling was holding me back.

The side-panel on my case is usually removed due to the size of the radiators I use in my water cooling setup. I tried using a floor fan to keep the card cool enough, but this failed to remedy the problem. I removed the stock GPU heatsink and changed the thermal paste to Arctic Silver Ceramique as it is none conductive and safe to use where SMDs (Surface Mount Device) are present. Nothing seemed to ameliorate the problem, and I began to wonder if the heatsink supplied by Sapphire may have imperfections, perhaps not being perfectly flat.

So my next option was to try the Danger Den GPU water block, unfortunately oxidation took its toll, and through my handling (taking photo's etc.) I'd placed a few striations in the base plate as well. Removing the oxidation alone would require lapping, as this was prior to my having Arctic Silver's ArctiClean which would have saved valuable time.

Being a perfectionist, I immediately broke out an EasyPCKits Premium Lapping Kit and got to work.

Madshrimps (c)


EasyPCKits offers what I consider to be the finest lapping kit on the market. Their Premium Kit includes a square of glass ideally sized for a work surface, 400 to 1000 grit papers, 10 to 40-micron paper, and a tube of Arctic Silver 5. I don't know of another supplier whom packages their kits with such a wide assortment of paper sizes, especially the finer grains. If you think you'd never use such fine grained paper, your sorely mistaken. It's the finest grains which will leave a surface free of micro-pores, pits, and striations. Most importantly your mating surfaces must be as flat as possible, so the paste can transfer heat optimally. Microscopic pits can trap air, negating thermal transfer. The mirror image on the right can only be achieved with a finer grain paper.


Madshrimps (c)


The results above were achieved in just 35-minutes. I didn't have too far to go, as Danger Den's finishing process seems to improve with each subsequent design. In fact I've seen a marked improvement in Danger Den base plate finishes from the MAZE4to the relatively recent TDX CPU water block. The latter sporting a highly polished finish. It's in the details where Danger Den has left their favorable mark on the minds of PC-Enthusiasts.

EasyPCKits has had an excellent product on the market for some time. While it's true you can go to your local hardware store and purchase many of these materials, however; it's often very difficult to find sandpaper in micro-fine grains, and your local hardware store won't be selling Arctic Silver with it :-) . At first I thought it silly that a piece of glass was shipped with the kit, then I realized how easy it is to work with due to its size, and you don't have to concern yourself trying to find a perfectly flat surface, or having your wife walk in as your pulling down the 24K gold leafed Dinning Room mirror.

Design and Installation

Spending $445 on this card warrants a dedicated H20 system.

Hopefully this will ameliorate the artifacts when overclocking, however; it would be prudent regardless. First I tested the system outside of the case, to ensure no leaks were present.

Madshrimps (c)


I've yet to experience a leak using Danger Den hardware. The only time this happened is when I'd placed tension on the tubing from the TDX, CPU-water block outlet entering the bay reservoir inlet. Rushing, I failed to check the lines, after hearing the all too familiar sound of air entering the system. Just a few drops escaped, but enough to cause the system to shut down, and in my stupidity, I tried restarting it twice Prior to realizing a few drops had fell onto the card, and into the PCIe slot. At 75W there's a significant amount of current there. Even more troubling, was the fact this was the very first time the card had been powered up. After removing the card and allowing the system to dry over night everything seems to have turned out OK. Nonetheless, it was a nerve racking experience, and I've definitely internalized the rule of immediately discovering the source when air enters your system. When installing a new system it's important to measure and connect the hoses without clamps, then place the entire system into the case prior to adding water so you'll know how the hoses are going to flex and twist. Then you can attach the zip-ties or other fastening devices securing tubing to all components (radiator, reservoir, pump, etc.). Take note in the photo above, the outlet from the GPU water block is fed into the reservoir and that tubing is angled upward. The idea was to eliminate any unnecessary tension on the block, ergo the video card.


Now let's take a look inside the MAZE4 GPU water block

Madshrimps (c)


The MAZE4 is based on a channel design which doesn't center the inlet stream onto a specific impingement zone centered above the GPU core. At first I was a bit perplexed by this. While it may seem like an illogical design it's important to understand there are vast architectural differences between GPU's and CPU's. Without delving into the subject beyond a prima facie explanation, heat dispersion on cores such as the R420 or NV40 simply aren't given the same priority as more complex CPU water block designs. The reasons behind the often elementary approach to GPU block design based on several principles. Foremost would be cost, if there is such a thing as an average water cooling Enthusiast, their expectation for a GPU block design are not as demanding as for CPU design. Since GPU blocks are often ancillary devices, they are less costly and complex.

This philosophy, however; is changing rapidly and among some European H20 makers, might seem archaic, as even their older GPU water blocks are the most intricately designs I've seen.

Danger Den, however; hasn't become the premiere H20 manufacturer by remaining complacent. In fact if there is an outdated model it might be the block featured here. Nonetheless, as you’re about to see it's still quite an effective device. Danger Den's recent 6800 GPU block exemplifies a much more thorough approach to video card cooling, as the design not only cools the NV40 core, but the card's memory as well.

Another reason one finds less complex impingement zones in GPU design, would be flow related. As 90% of all multi block designs are in linear, fed from a single pump, there's a substantial pressure drop by the time water exits the CPU block and enters the GPU block. Another factor dictating the design of the MAZE4 would be temperature. As the water entering the GPU will be carrying with it heat transferred from the CPU, its temperature will be raised significantly above ambient, if a temp that low can be attained in the first place.


Madshrimps (c)



Looking at the large channels above, one may see the logic behind this block to be well served. The intent is to allow the least amount of restriction on flow and the best circulation of the water through the channels such that it travels through the block as rapidly as possible removing heat with it. It's apparent the water exiting the CPU block is lower in temperature then the GPU itself, otherwise multi-block systems would obviously fail. I wouldn't advise against multiple blocks in-line necessarily, however; there are methods to avoid feeding heated water into the GPU block. Employing a powerful pump, and dual radiator, one can split the outlet from the radiator, so there's a separate feed to each block, and likewise in return utilize a Y-adapter to merge the heated water from both blocks into the reservoir.

In this review I placed the block in an isolated system. The photo below shows the final installation.

Madshrimps (c)


Onto the performance tests ->

Test setup and results

Test Platform Specifications:

Liquid3D's Test Setup
CPU Intel Pentium 4 S478 3Ghz “Prescott”
- Arctic Silver 5
Mainboard Asus P4C800-E Deluxe (BIOS 1017)
Memory Kingston HyperX PC3200 2Gb Kit
Other Components Sapphire X800 Pro
OCZ PowerStream 420W PSU
TTGI USA TT-561 Case (without side panels)


Water Cooling Components:

CPU:
- Cool Cases CC Magic Silver CPU
- Hydor L40, Double heatwear Core
- 2x120mm/92CFM Sunons
- 1/2” tubing.

GPU:
- Danger Den MAZE4 GPU block
- Hydor L30 (320Gph)
- Black Ice Xtreme
- 2x120mm/92CFM Sunons
- 1/2” tubing.

  • Ambient Room Temp 15°C !
  • Case/SYS temp 20°C


    Now let's take a look at the temperature differences between stock GPU-HSF and the MAZE4. As I stated earlier, the L adapter allows the return feed from the MAZE4 to be angled, so no tension is placed on the graphics card. The height of the Black Ice radiator’s outlet which feeds the MAZE4 happens to be ideally suited.

    The first screenshot below exemplifies the temperature with stock HSF on the Sapphire X800 Pro.

    Madshrimps (c)



    Not a bad temp actually, of course GPU's will run much hotter when stressed then any other chip. A CPU might idle at 35°C to 50°C, however; it won't raise much more then 20% to 30% of its default operating temps when pushed. GPU's on other hand will easily rise from an idle temp of 35°C to 55°C, running 30% to 50% above its default operating temp under duress (intensive 3D cycles).

    Our next Screenshot exemplifies idle temp after the installation of the MAZE4

    Madshrimps (c)


    This is an excellent temp, and has opened my eye to the potential of water cooling the GPU. To determine the accuracy of the internal thermal diode in the R420 core I decided to insert a thermistor as close to the core as possible without disrupting thermal contact.


    Madshrimps (c)



    Using TTGI USA SF609 Fan Master with its external temperature probes, I measured idle and load temps.

    Idle corresponds closely ATI's R420 internal thermal diode, as can be seen below. If you recall the internal diode read 24°C

    Madshrimps (c)


    To clear up any confusion the 40°C temp on the display, it is one of the adjustable alarm temperatures on the SF609's. I'm inclined to trust the 26.1C temp as indicated by the SF609 thermistor. I inserted the thermistor and remounted the MAZE4 GPU block several times to insure placement was as accurate as possible. The next photo is the temperature reading looping 3DMark03.

    Madshrimps (c)



    This is an excellent temp given the fact it was the fifth consecutive 3DMark03 loop, and the card was simultaneously overclocked to 500Mhz core and 483Mhz speed. The crop below indicates the overclocked speeds and 3DMark03 score. Prior to installing this water cooling my scores hadn't surpassed 11K.

    Madshrimps (c)

  • Conclusion

    Conclusion

    The MAZE4 GPU water block improved cooling performance dramatically and kept the X800 running quite cool. Danger Den continues to provide high quality water blocks and continues to improve and expand their product line. Their most recent graphic card block, the 6800 looks to be one of their most promising.

    Some time ago I read an article which claimed a 10°C overall drop in processor temperature would effectively double the life of that chip (Link1 / Link2). With water cooling one can elevate the quality and performance of their 3D experience, exploiting every bit of the graphic card's potential. A cooler running card will be less likely to artifact, will run faster.

    It took me only 45 minutes to install the MAZE4 (DD Install video) in my high quality water cooling system which can be assembled for under $200.

    The MAZE4 has been part of the Danger Den line for some time now, yet it easily adapted to ATI's newest X800 video card, a further testament to the forward thinking of this manufacturer.

    I'd like to thank Dave at EasyPCKits and Dano at Danger Den

    Madshrimps (c)


    Questions/Comments: forum thread
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