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After winning the prestigious LVMH Karl Lagerfeld prize earlier this month, the Amsterdam and Paris-based designer and his eponymous label, Duran Lantink, showed its Spring Summer 2025 collection in the heart of Le Marais. Marking its third Paris Fashion Week show on the official schedule, the brand balanced its signature three-dimensional shapes with wearability; exploring the playful side of getting dressed. The show was named as the top 5th best show of the season by @Business of Fashion. Sculptural forms were ever-present, yet more limited to highlight specific parts of the body. Bustlines bulged as the padded bra took on a whole new meaning; exaggerated to conical extremes. Hips and joints were highlighted, but with slighter suggestions of volume, in a series of leggings and bodysuits. Where there was high impact, there was also a study in practicality– with its own twist. Drop-waist trousers and skirts was anchored by sewn-in briefs, and the brand’s debut handbag was worn three ways; on the shoulder, turned upside down and carried as a clutch, and even as headwear. There were allusions to Ibiza in the 1980’s; when the early rave scene first swept through the island. Gauzy and floor-length tunic dresses were layered over biker shorts, and embellished with jewellery by Kris Ruhs from Carla Sozzani’s personal archive. Halfway through the show, Duran surprised the audience with a look that seemingly reflected the audience back at themselves, via a screen embedded in a mini dress which was programmed to live-stream the runway. For the final look, Naomi Campbell surprised guests wearing a bias-cut gown with an illusion neckline, the latest in a series of floating pieces that began with tank tops and jeans.

Circling the 16th century cloisters of the Chiostro di San Simpliciano in Milan, the BALLY Spring Summer 2025 collection “Counterpoint 3” by creative director Simone Bellotti harks back to the origins of the Dada artistic movement in Zurich a century ago. A playful collage of attitudes and personas takes shape, revisiting BALLY’s heritage with an irreverent energy. An artistic current abounds, as symbols from our collective consciousness are reshuffled and deconstructed between natural and artificial, historic and modern concerns. Decorum and rigour are subverted by avant-garde action and thought, provoking creations imprinted with both fragility and desire. A concave steel habit worn by the poet Hugo Ball informs the cocooning silhouette, framing the décolleté with an operatic volume. From this defiant gesture, a wardrobe revolves around the petal-like folds of a ruffled peplum, a rounded sleeve, and the scrunched and moulded drape of taffeta or silk gazar. Sculptural tailoring is cut in dry summer twill and fine BALLY leathers that nip the waist or fall towards the knee in sober lines. Bright technical outerwear fuses protection with sartorial ease, folded bell skirts and gossamer dresses recall spring mountain flora, and faded rose prints blossom on fine cashmere knits and Watteau-back tops. Codes are questioned in a Dadaist approach to dressing, twisting archetypes in a layered language of clothes at play. For Spring Summer 2025, a new anthology of BALLY footwear styles synthesises pillars of the House archive in architectural and ornamental forms. Building on strong foundations of Swiss craftsmanship and style, a new Glendale rises on a slim pedestal heel, the lace-up Scribe is elevated on a block heel and platform T-strap sandals are edged in fine metalwork. Brogued derbies and cut-out Mary Jane brogues are studded with bright saddlery studs, and slotted sandals are framed in punk spikes. The Beckett satchel appears oversized in supple glossy leathers, as trapeze and bell-shaped doctor’s bags pop in the season’s alpine floral palette with topstitched details. Engraved belt buckles and handbag straps are modelled after an antique hammered shoe horn, joining acorns, bells and mushrooms like whimsical souvenirs scattered throughout.

The Camera Moda Fashion Trust has announced 247 co-founder & CEO Giacomo Piazza as a 2024 Grant Committee Member. Founded in 2017, the non-profit organization aims to foster a new generation of emerging Italian designers through financial and mentorship-based programs, under the patronage of The National Chamber for Italian Fashion (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, CNMI). The ten grant finalists will get the opportunity to present their collections to the committee, who will decide on the winner of this year's CMFT Grant.

MORE Consulting is proud to announce the featuring of Lev Tanju on the cover of Fantastic Man Issue 38. Icon first, founder of Palace Skateboards, and newly appointed Creative Director of FILA+, a project strategically managed by MORE Consulting, Lev was photographed by Alasdair McLellan and styled by Max Permain, wearing some pieces from the upcoming FILA+ FW24 collection. The team at MORE Consulting is thrilled to show you what's #moretocome in the next few months.

Introducing Duran Lantink — Currently shortlisted for the 2024 LVMH Prize, creations from the Dutch designer's ever-evolving, conscious collections have been acquired by renowned institutions such as the MET Costume Institute and Stedelijk Museum. In a process that fuses pre-loved pieces, deadstock, and new sustainable materials, each garment by Lantink transforms with the zeitgeist and stays in a continuous dialogue between the designer and owner. The brand made its Paris Fashion Week debut in Spring Summer 2023, with a series of shows lauded by press such as UK Vogue, US Vogue, Dazed, i-D, and W Mag for their excessive, surreal, and playful qualities. Returning to Paris for Autumn Winter 2024, Lantink has solidified his radical approach to craft and circularity on the world stage.

RANRA Studio’s third collaboration with Salomon continues their ongoing investigation into “better design” solutions through innovative material treatments and manufacturing processes. The brand’s SKOR model builds upon Salomon’s “INDEX” recycling initiative to introduce a recyclable, transitional model suitable for both winter and summer climates. The design features a removable leather gaiter with a lightweight recyclable TPU bottom shoe. RANRA’s unique “Quick-release” system to detach the two elements allows for increased versatility across seasons and the opportunity to separate different material compositions for easy recycling. The campaign took inspiration from the shoe’s mixture of natural and manmade materials as well as its innovative approach to recyclable elements to think about the place of a garment within a wider context of the ecosystem. Documented as a specimen in the archive of a museum using an industry-standard archiving rig, these standardized images have a very specific visual language as well as an unusual mixture of the natural and the manmade. Featuring plant samples, fossils, and beetles alongside hundreds of years worth of archiving notes and other ephemera, they can be read on one level as purely informative technical images, and on another as surreal mixed-media collages. More than just aesthetic inspiration, the campaign acts as a provocation. Asking the question, can a shoe ever be natural history? While this question might seem absurd, it is relevant at a time when human activity touches all parts of the globe. If we take human activity as a non-negotiable part of the wider natural world, then we are encouraged to think more responsibly about what we make. On the occasion of Milan Fashion Week, RANRA collaborated with the Gatto Verde nightclub series to build a ramp installation for a pre-launch event in Milan. A series of museum vitrines presented the shoe alongside a newly commissioned video by Eddie Whelan, documenting the brand’s archiving process.  

Spearheading the growth and expansion of designer Simone Bellotti's new vision for Bally, 247 Group will oversee the development of the fashion shows and pre-collections, effective immediately. Revealed within the patrician halls of the 17th-century Palazzo Serbelloni in the center of Milan, BALLY Autumn Winter 2024 drew upon the potent mysticism of mountain stories, melding the untamed costumes of the traditional Swiss countryside with the coded uniforms of Zurich’s streets. Investigating tales of mermaids and men whispered by the Engadine lakes, Bellotti nods to the siren’s tail and the treicheln bell in flared forms that hug the body and sculpt the silhouette. Broken by Swiss red, a natural palette ripples with texture. Shearling and waxy leathers, loden, mohair, and alpine jacquard knits are assembled alongside smooth wool, draped satin, and corduroy. With deep pockets, buttoned high against the elements, jackets and coats swing from the shoulders, and are cut with curved hems or bloom with wild sleeves. Rhythmic notions of Swiss dressing co-exist through idiosyncrasies both historical and contemporary. Worn with straight cords and indigo denim, ‘proper’ crisp cotton shirts, and boatneck sweaters, BALLY’s heritage footwear anchors the wardrobe with 170 years of tradition and craftsmanship. Soft and malleable, the snub-toe ‘Plume’ deck shoe becomes a lace-up bootie or thigh-high cuissard, the ‘Glendale’ Mary-Jane is spiked and studded with Appenzeller charms, and derbies or block-heeled boots are finished in polished or oiled leathers. Buckled satchels, briefcases, and zippered carry-alls are worn in monochrome calfskin with gilt or silvered hardware, as the profile of a slouchy shoulder bag is constructed with the leather sole of a BALLY shoe.

FILA introduces the launch of FILA+, a new line that represents the brand’s storied history in sportswear, reimagined through the lens of modern design. In tandem with this launch, FILA announces the appointment of Lev Tanju, founder of the acclaimed skatewear brand Palace, as the Creative Director of FILA+. The collaborative development with MORE Consulting and licensing partnership with 247 will see FILA+ distributed globally, focusing on a selection of major e-commerce platforms, local department stores, and key boutiques. The inaugural FILA+ collection is an elevated take on sportswear, featuring a variety of apparel and accessories that combine high-quality materials with sleek, contemporary design. Drawing inspiration from FILA’s archives, FILA+ presents a fresh take on classic silhouettes with pieces that blend craftsmanship and authenticity suitable for everyday style. Raised and influenced by the vibrant skate culture of London, Lev became a prominent name in streetwear after launching his brand in 2009. Lev will continue his role as Palace’s Creative Director. His collaborations with different brands and artists have shown his ability to connect with a wide range of audiences beyond just the skating community. This talent for bringing together diverse cultures is a key reason he was chosen to lead FILA+. Lev’s role in the debut collection of FILA+ is the beginning of a new chapter of creativity and collaboration. Reflecting on his new position, Lev says, “FILA has such a rich and amazing history spanning over a hundred years. I was blown away by how vast the archive was, and loved all of it. The story of Pierluigi Rolando, his drive towards innovation, and his groundbreaking advancements really inspired me. I was also fond of the whole Italian FILA team: they are extremely genuine and like a family.” The first FILA+ collection will be presented to buyers in January 2024, followed by a public and media reveal through a campaign in June 2024.

www.macondostore.com The multi-brand boutique MACONDO announces a dynamic new e-commerce platform. Designed by Copenhagen-based agency Moon Int. the site puts forward the aesthetic values of crisp and playful contemporary design that anchor all MACONDO operations. The streamlined experience now reaches an exciting new audience in fashion retail, whether online or in-store. Thanks to our technology partners Codeby, VTEX, and Mantanera for making it all possible. Named after the fictional town in Gabriel García Márquez’s literary masterpiece One Hundred Years of Solitude, MACONDO is home to a collection of luxury men’s and womenswear, translating trends through a carefully-curated edit of pieces by established and emerging designers.