Booting up Wargame: Red Dragon for the first time, you are probably a bit unsure about how to approach this massive RTS title with a myriad of nooks, crannies, and hidden lore; before you is the deck-builder, a magical place for creativity, with many factions to choose from and many specializations and eras for the decks you can build. So why pick an unspecialized, or "unspec" deck?

Unspec decks are the jack-of-all-trades of decks, providing you with all the tools you might desire to fight your battles and win. Decks with a specialization are focused on specific unit types and lose access to more flexible unit choices as the cost of their bonuses. There are many factors that determine who wins in a Wargame match, from deck matchups to what side of the map you start on. Playing an unspec deck gives you consistent flexibility against a variety of different matchups thanks to the inherent versatile nature of the unspecialized deck.

Special thanks to John McClane for the thumbnail and unit category art!

In the following sections, we will review all the tabs available in the deckbuilder (excluding naval). We wish to convey which units should be taken and which should be avoided. To gain an understanding of unit types/niches and their uses, read through the guide normally. If you already know what the unit types are, but just want to see suggestions on what to put in your deck, check the "summarized" blocks at the end of each section, or go to the very end of the guide to see some prebuilt unspec decks.

The authors are experienced, long-time players of Wargame: Red Dragon, as well as instructors on the Wargame Bootcamp Discord server.[discord.com] We are active players in the higher levels of the ranked ladder. While the specifics of a given faction may not match the recommendations of this guide, following it will result in a playable deck for any coalition in the game. This guide is optimized towards competitive 1v1 play, but a compliant deck is viable in all game sizes.

Command units (commonly referred to as CVs), capture zones. It is crucial to have one in your spawn sector in order to have access to reinforcements, gain command points in conquest, and increase your income in destruction. You can tell a CV apart from other units by the unique star emblem that is part of the unit name. You must be stationary in the zone in order to capture it. If both you and the opponent have a stationary CV in a zone it will remain neutral. CVs are split into a multitude of types:

• Infantry CVs - 5 HP squads with no anti-tank (AT) or anti-air (AA) weapons, only small arms. They are stealthy, survivable in towns and forests(all infantry take less damage in forests and towns), and have access to transports which may prove useful on their own. They are slow without a vehicle to transport them, are very vulnerable to artillery and bombers if not moved when under fire, have low availability, and cannot reliably defend themselves.
  
  
• Jeep CVs - cheap, 5 HP CVs on wheels, with a price ranging from 100 to 110 pts. They are fast, cheap, and have high availability, but are extremely easy to kill. Jeep CVs are taken to have a large number of CVs per card, complementing other cards with less availability.
  
  
• Helicopter CVs - variable HP, fast CV which is required to land in order to capture/hold a zone. They have high availability, speed, very good optics. They cannot hide, and are the least survivable CV type. There are absolutely no reasons to ever use helicopter CVs.
  
  
• APC/IFV CVs - lightly armored tracked/wheeled vehicles, all 10 HP, some with self defense weapons such as autocannons or heavy machine guns, making them more survivable. Used when 4 are available per card and you want more survivability against stray artillery fire than you would get with a jeep CV. APC CVs with 1 front/side armor or less are not worth using.
  
  
• Tank CVs - usually the most expensive CV in a deck, as they provide your CV with both armor and a significant defensive capability. They are the most survivable CV option, being able to kill enemy units in a pinch with their tank gun. Tank CVs are best used in sectors which are either under constant fire and pressure or sectors where maintaining a CV at all times is critical such as the spawn sector.

Supply units - Units that keep your fighting forces resupplied on ammo, fuel and spare parts(health points). Supply units carry a certain amount of supplies, depending on the price and type. There are several types of supply units:

• FOB - a large, stationary, easily detectable base, housing the most supply out of any unit for 75 points in the deployment phase of a match. The FOB is essential for using heavy artillery, but is also capable of being destroyed if your opponent is relentless enough. Supplies that are in a FOB when the fob is destroyed do not come back for the rest of the match.
  
  
• Supply ground vehicles - commonly trucks, although some factions have an APC with functions the same way. Trucks range in price from 10 to 40 pts and carry more supplies per point the higher the price is. Supply trucks are the bread and butter of a logistics tab as they are not as easy to detect as supply helicopters.
  
  
• Supply helicopters - fast supply units which can traverse the map quite easily. They are extremely easy to detect and predict where they might land, as they are required to land in order to resupply units. Supply helicopters are less supply per point efficient than other options, yet have a niche in establishing closer resupply points to the frontline in areas which take trucks a much longer time to reach. Supply helicopters are primarily used in team games, and do not typically have a place in a 1v1 match.

What to take:

• 2-3x cards of CVs - depending on the availability of the deck, the amount of CV cards you should take will vary significantly. The goal should be to have at minimum, 7 CVs. This can be done by taking a command tank + a jeep, infantry and an APC, or perhaps a tank, infantry, and APC CV. Different decks have different availability bonuses, so as long as you have 7 CVs divided into two cards, your chain of command should survive a standard 1v1 match.
  
  
• 0-1x FOB - whether you run a FOB depends a lot on the supply intensive units you will be adding to your deck, such as heavy artillery or expensive helicopter gunships. FOBs are very simple to use, allowing you to have a lot of supply points for a one time fee at the start of the game.
  
  
• 1-2x supply vehicles - the number of supply vehicle cards depends on whether a FOB is present or not. If a FOB is present, one truck card is enough. Otherwise, 2 cards of supply trucks, duplicates or differently priced trucks are a viable setup.

*Helicopter CVs should be avoided at all costs

*Avoid having your 7 CV minimum met by only taking a single jeep CV card.

*Avoid taking the tracked APC boxes which are slow or have only 1 armor all around.

*Avoid duplicating CV types if running only 2 cards.

Game size considerations:

• 1v1 - FOBs are not a necessity, depending on the deck. Running two cards of supply trucks instead of a FOB can be viable if you do not plan to use heavy artillery, and find that your AA, tanks, etc. are cheap to resupply and are self sufficient. Having an extra 75 points in the opener is very useful and can allow you to play wider or play more aggressively.
  
  
• 2v2/3v3 - FOBs are very useful in team games, as artillery comes in larger numbers. Supply helos might be helpful to establish forward resupply points in order to not have trucks drive from the front back to the FOB for a refill on larger maps. The 7+ CV requirement of 1v1s is no longer critical due to the ability to rely on teammates.
  
  
• (4v4+) - FOB is almost mandatory, and larger supply trucks/helos are quite useful. One can even get away with only a single card of CVs when having reliable teammates to capture zones for you.

"It always comes down to the infantryman and his rifle." Infantry are arguably the most important unit in Wargame: Red Dragon, thanks to their varied armaments, affordability, stealth, and ability to turn forests and towns into impenetrable fortresses. The different variations of infantry will be put into separate subsections, as infantry and planes are the two largest categories of relevant unit types in this game. The different types of infantry are as follows:

• Anti-aircraft teams(MANPADS) - (Man Portable Air Defense System, blue background guys) 2-5 men teams which carry a primary weapon and an AA missile that targets both helicopters and planes.
  
  
• Anti-tank teams(ATGMs) - (AKA ATGM, or Anti-Tank Guided Missile, yellow background guys) 2-5 men teams which carry a primary weapon and an AT missile. They target all ground vehicles, are slow to move, must be stationary to fire and guide the missile to the target. A must take in most decks regardless of game scale unless you do not have access to one.
  
  
• Commando squads - (Red background guys) Commando infantry have red backgrounds and are typically the most expensive infantry squads. They are the fastest infantry squad type and will generally kill any non-elite squad in a 1v1. Except in niche cases is it almost always worth it to bring the '90s variants thanks to their usually better weaponry. Pay attention to squad secondary/tertiary slot, because some will have anti-infantry rockets or MANPADS in place of their anti-tank or machine gun. Commandos are not mandatory but are often a good addition to your deck. If you cannot fit special forces in your infantry tab you can fit them into your recon tab. These kinds of infantry will benefit from wheeled and helicopter transports because they are potent in openers and can be good for emergency buys.
  
  
• Engineer teams - (Colloquially known as flamers/sappers, fiery background guys) 5-10 men squads which carry a weak primary as well as a flame weapon, usually a short-range liquid flamethrower. The only uniquely useful engineer squad is USSR's sapery/sapery '85 because it gets access to the tanky BTR-T. All other engineers are typically a worse option than any other card in the deck because liquid napalm has very low dps and rocket napalm squads only have 5hp. They will create many fires in forests, which can be annoying for enemy infantry trying to use their stationary anti-tank weapons.
  
  
• Fire Support teams - (AKA FIST, orange background guys) 5 men squads armed with a variety of HE or mixed HE/AP weapons to help give you an edge in short ranged fights. They can be viable in conjunction with a good IFV, for example Granátomet AGS-17/Vydra-II or Deckungsgruppe/Marder.
  
  
• Light infantry squads - (White background guys) 10-15 men squads that gain a speed bonus of 5kmph. Some will have unique anti-tank weapon like the M67/Eryx/Dragon II/Metys-M. Shock light infantry like legion '90 and fallskjermjeger '90 are exceptionally strong against both infantry and vehicles, while others like light rifleman '90 and gornostrelki '90 can be situationally useful as anti-tank.
  
  
• Reservists - 10-15 men squads. Can be expected to do nothing except tank as meatshields and provide a transport for fire support. "Reservistes" and natres for example get a 3 armour box with a 12.7mm machine gun, which in groups of 3 or 4 can be very oppressive and effective for tanking fire. Also very handy for positioning on flanks and next to cvs. 15 men reservists should be avoided as they're the same cost as regulars while performing notably worse.
  
  
• Rifle Squads - 10-15 men squads, extremely diverse in their performance because it encompasses both regulars and shock infantry. Unfortunately the viability of regulars and shocks depends on many stats which are hidden or unintuitive in the armoury. We will separate the training level into 2 categories:
  
  
  • Regulars: Regulars will handily beat reservists but almost always lose to shocks but in numbers can fight lone shocks/commandos effectively. A squad like dragoner with a 2 armour 12.7mm machine gun transport and an MG3 is the quintessential, spammable regular squad, only costing 15pts to kill panicked or uncovered infantry easily. Other regulars like fusiliers '90 are 20pts at their cheapest and are useful for killing vehicles with their powerful LAW 80.
    
    
  • Shocks: Shocks have lower dps than commandos but significantly higher dps than regulars. They are the generalist backbone of your infantry tab. '90 variants should almost always be taken. Shocks benefit from wheeled transports and IFVs, but cheap transports are not necessarily a bad option.

"Someone call for a taxi?" Knowing what infantry squads are used in what scenario is great and all, but how are you supposed to get them to the fight? When you watch your infantry spawn in, they are not going to walk out of the spawn corridor; they will be driving or flying to the front in some sort of vehicle. Half of what makes an infantry card good is the transport it comes in, so knowing when to take what transport is very important. Transports can be divided into the following:

• APCs - A catch all term for any lightly armored and armed transport, wheeled or tracked:
  
  • Tracked APCs - 5-15 points in cost, and have 1-3 front armor and 1-3 machine guns. Tracked APCs are best used for when you want to spam cheap line infantry with inexpensive, short ranged fire support or to have a cheaper way of calling out expensive shocks/special forces; both uses here play around numbers. Ideally, the APC has 2 front armor or more, if it has 1 armor or none, it will take full damage from HE and AP weapons, making it extremely fragile, but still usable if it is your only option.
    
    
  • Wheeled APCs - Wheeled APCs are at minimum 10 points and usually only have a machine gun or KPVT(the South African K-Car is the only exception, armed with an autocannon). When picking a wheeled APC, unarmored APCs like the South Korean KM900, or American Humvee, will do just fine if they are your only option, but should not be taken if a 2 armor APC is available instead, like the Norwegian the XA-186NO. Wheeled APCs are best used for high tier, low availability infantry, mainly commandos and shocks. The added cost for speed makes wheeled APCs less efficient in grinds than tracked APCs for regular infantry units, which is why they should only be used for specific shock and commando squads instead.
  
  
• IFVs - A catch all term for any heavily armed transport, wheeled or tracked, sporting an autocannon, automatic grenade launcher, or high AP atgms:
  
  • Tracked IFVs - Ranging from lightweight box poppers like the South Korean KAFV-25 to tank vaporisers like the American M2A2 Bradley, tracked IFVs differ from their wheeled counterparts in their armor - some tracked IFVs offer lots of protection and bigger guns, like the West-German Marder 2 or the Norwegian CV90. Heavy IFVs benefit you by giving your infantry a great unit to combo with, giving your force much more firepower compared to a simple machine gun on a box could, such as using West German Panzgrenadier 90s in the Marder 2 or Soviet Motostrelki 90 in the BMP-3.
    
    
  • Wheeled IFVs - Wheeled IFVs are analogous to light, tracked IFVs - armed with a simple autocannon, grenade launcher, or both, as well as armor ranging from 1-3. But in this case, you are wheeled, meaning when you are driving on roads, you can get to the destination much faster than a tracked IFV. This makes them great opening blitz units, able to drive fast to a town or forest edge and do more damage when fighting than a regular wheeled APC can thanks to your 25mm cannon or AGL. Like the wheeled APC, wheeled IFVs are best used with commandos and shocks, or specific types of utility infantry, like China's Tanke Shashou'85/Lie Ren in the WZ-551 or the Soviet Spetsnaz GRU in the BTR-80A/90.
  
  
• Helicopters - Helicopter transports are either an unarmed/MG armed transport helicopter, or a transport-gunship hybrid armed with rocket pods, an autocannon, or occasionally ATGMs. Helicopter transport gunships(armed with rocket pods) are always the best option to use if you are using a helicopter, such as when you are helidropping Soviet Razvedka in the Mi-8MTV or dropping off infantry CVs like the British HQ section in the Lynx AH.7. Helicopter transports are fantastic for dropping off important infantry to the front, like South Korean Teukjeonsa in UH-60P, Soviet Gornostrelki 90 in the Mi-8MTV or Czech Specialni Jednotky'90 in the Mi-17.
  
  *When a helicopter crashes after being shot down in mid-air, it deals 12 HE damage, meaning 15 men squads will always survive with 3 HP when crash landing!

What to take:

• 1x Infantry ATGM card - Arguably the most cost effective tool in the infantry tab, the infantry ATGM is useful for zoning where long range AT is needed but a tank cannot be afforded. The cheaper, spammier, ATGM teams can be taken in either the cheapest boxes to keep the price low, in the rocket pod helicopters for fast deployment, or in IFVs to help kill infantry and vehicles that get close. The stronger, expensive ATGM teams should usually stick to the cheapest tracked or wheeled transport available to keep costs down.
  
  
• 1-2x Line infantry - Reservist, regular, or cheap shock squad, the first line infantry card should be taken in a cheap 5 point box and cost no more than 20 points total. Look for a box with 2+ frontal armor; if none are present, choose the one which is the fastest. The second, optional card can be taken in a box again or alternatively, you may take the second card of lines in an IFV, giving you access to a cheap fire support combo.
  
  
• 1-2x Shocks - You should either pick the shock squad with the highest AP weapon or high infantry DPS(has a minimi, mg3, or RPK type machine gun).(Norwegian Stormer in the CV90, Australian Commandos 90 in the M113a1, VDV ‘90 in BTR-ZD Skrezhet).
  
  
• 0-1x Commandos - Good commando squads have price premium for enhanced performance against infantry and vehicles. Some units trade their ability to kill infantry quickly(their machine gun) for MANPADs so they can target tanks and helicopters, losing their anti-infantry edge(East German LSTR-40, West German Fallschirmjager 90, French Commando Marine).
  
  
• 0-1x Light infantry - Your light infantry will be used to force breakthroughs and aid in dire defense situations, with their movement bonus and unique anti-tank solutions to destroy vehicles(e.g. French Legion ‘90 in the VAB T20/13, American Light Rifleman ‘90 in the M998 Humvee, Norwegian Fallskjermjager 90 in Xa-186NO). Shock-trained eryx infantry of this class are always mandatory if available in your deck.
  
  
• 0-1x FIST teams - used in conjunction with or in place of ATGMs depending on the armament. Rocket launcher FIST teams are for forest grinds/deep city fights, and recoilless rifle FIST teams are forest/town edge defense(e.g. American SMAW in M998 Humvee, Chinese Tanke Shashou ‘85 in the WZ-551).
  
  
• 0-1x MANPADS - If the deck does not have any infantry ATGM options, one may consider adding in MANPADS, such as the US using stinger teams. In most cases it is not worth taking manpads in an unspec deck.
  
  
• 0-1x Flamers - For new players, flamers in Unspec are frowned upon due to requiring heavy micro to keep them alive from box and vehicle spam. However, there is one unit that is exempt from this perception and is noob friendly, the Soviet Sapery in BTR-T combo. Make sure you are taking the 10-man base version of the Sapery for the extra HP.

*Always fill out your infantry tab.
*If you are taking reservists in a 5 point box, that should be your only cheap 5 point box infantry.
*Never take Delta Force, Kommandosi, or SASR; use upvetted Marines 90 or Commandos 90 instead.
*Always keep line infantry downvetted so you get more of them.

Game size considerations:

• In 1v1s, try to avoid excessive amounts special forces and FIST teams so that your infantry tab can include more 1-2 cards of regular line infantry.
  
  
• The larger the game size, the more viable heavier IFVs, special forces and MANPADS become.

What the tab consists of:

Anti Aircraft Artillery(AA)

• SPAAG systems(Self-Propelled Anti-Aircraft Weapon)
  
• SAM systems(Surface to Air Missile)

Artillery of varying types

• Howitzers
  
• Multiple Launch Rocket Systems(MLRS)
  
• Mortars

"Anything in the air? We'll blow it up!" The air defense (AD/AA) section of the support tab is divided into 2 categories, Self-propelled Anti-Aircraft Guns(SPAAGs) and Surface to Air Missiles (SAMs). AA can be either Infra-Red (IR) or Radar-equipped (RAD). Radar AA can be spotted and targeted by SEAD (Suppression of Enemy Air Defenses) planes, requiring you to keep them off when not in use to prevent them being destroyed. Radarless or IR AA does not. The two weapon types of AA are:

• SPAAGs - SPAAGs are guns with a high rate of fire, stunning their target and dealing cumulative damage against planes, helicopters, and infantry. SAMS deal the big chunks of damage, whereas SPAAGs will kill an aircraft "by a thousand cuts," destroying it outright or weakening it enough for a SAM to finish the job. In most cases, your chosen SPAAG should have at least 2625m range against helicopters to be considered a viable pick. Some SPAAGs also come with missiles attached to them, such as the Soviet Tunguska or Chinese PGZ-95.
  
  
• SAMs - Surface to air missile AA deals damage to enemy aircraft in large chunks, instantly stunning an enemy unit if the missile has 9 HE. Missile AA, like SPAAGs, can come as radar-active and radarless. If the AA in particular has 3150 meters of minimum range against planes, then it is a primarily anti-plane piece. Anti-helo focused pieces have 2800 meters of range or more against helicopters and tend to be IR, radarless AA pieces. Some SAMs are guided, which means that after firing, the missile system must remain stationary in order to guide the missile to the target. You should always upvet missile AA systems; in an unspec deck, this means taking them at hardened.

"There are two types of people in this world, artillerymen and targets." Artillery is always useful to have, raining down damage upon the heads of enemies from very far away, without being in combat, but can conversely be a burden on your logistics in many cases. Artillery in Wargame Red Dragon is divided into 3 main groups:

• Howitzers (tube artillery) - Large guns with HE values ranging from 5 to 10 HE. The purpose of a howitzer is to hammer an area with high HE over a long period of time to kill soft targets. For the purpose of the guide, only howitzers with an HE value of 7-10 are relevant. As a rule, all 9-10 HE howitzers have 30-35 second aim times, while 7 HE howitzers will occasionally have 10 second aim times. Good examples include the Swedish Bkan 1C, the American M110, the Soviet Malka/Pion, the North Korean Koksan, and the South African Rhino.
  
  
• MLRS (multiple launch rocket system) - Arguably one of the most important units a deck can utilize, MLRS systems are at their best when stopping and starting assaults. Unlike the howitzer, the MLRS will paint a very large area with warheads with the main purpose of stunning, panicking, and dealing chip damage. Timing the firing of a salvo at the right time can let you stun your opponent during your push or during their own. For the purpose of this guide, only MLRS systems that have 7 HE or more are relevant. Examples of these include the French M270 LRM, the Soviet BM-27 Uragan, the Chinese BM-24, the Israeli MAR-290, or the Yugoslav Plamen-S.
  
  
• Mortars - If you do not have access to any of the units above, you will likely at minimum, have access to a mortar. Ranging from 2 to 5 HE, mortars are mobile, cheap, fast firing, accurate and quick to acquire targets. Their ability to quickly dispense smoke or HE in a small area, especially when in numbers, makes them an invaluable tool for conventional Unspec play. Your mortar should have 3 HE or more and cost no more than 40 points.

*Howitzers and MLRS systems are often referred to as "heavy arty" in the wargame community.

What to take:

• 1x Mortar - always crucial in decks, primarily for smoke (the only reliable line of sight (LoS) blocker in the game) but also lethal in groups when striking soft targets. Always avoid 2 HE mortars, The larger the the HE value, the bigger the explosions and the larger the smoke clouds(Bigger is good!). Choose a mortar up to 5 HE and under 60 points, going to 4 and 3 HE if they are your only options.
  
  
• 1-2x Dedicated anti-helo AA piece - a quality, anti-helicopter AA piece is one with at minimum 2800m range or more against helicopters, be it a missile or SPAAG system. They must be reasonably mobile, are ideally not able to be killed by SEAD(There is no [RAD] tag on the weapon in the armory), and be either highly accurate, or cheap to call out and use in numbers. The French Crotale, Soviet 9K33 OSA, Danish Otomatic, or West German Flakpanzer Gepard are quality anti-helicopter pieces.
  
  
• 0-1x Dedicated anti-plane AA piece - Every coalition and most nations has some sort of dedicated anti-plane SAM with 3150 meter range or more against planes. Anti-Plane AA, be it the British/Australian Tracked Rapier FSA, or the Soviet/Finnish Buk M1/Ito 96 are essential to any deck, dealing either slow firing, high damage, missiles at enemy aircraft (BUK), or quickly saturating a plane with accurate and lower HE missiles (Rapier or Roland). Some anti-plane AA, like the Yugoslav Neva or Dutch HEOS are infrared, but still have 4200 meters of range against planes; making them untargetable by SEAD and strengthening the survivability of your air defense setup. Dedicated anti-plane AA can on occasion not be taken if you have multiple cards of ASFs.
  
  
• 0-1x Flex card AA piece (commonly a cheaper general purpose option) - Flex card AA typically have 2625 meters of range against helicopters or less, and are useful in giving your ADN useful, cheap options when the rest of your support tab is expensive. The Vab VDAA, the Canadian Wolverine, and American PIVADS are cost effective AA units that trade range for affordability while maintaining their lethality in numbers.
  
  
• 0-1x Heavy artillery - the choice of which artillery piece to take, or whether to take one at all, depends on the options your deck has, and the amount of activation points you’d want to use in the support tab. A general rule of thumb is that 7 HE howitzers in the price range of 120+ points have 10 seconds of aim time, making them always a decent pick. Complimenting the 10 second, 7 HE howitzer is the 30-35 second aimtime 9-10 HE howitzer at around 70-100 points.
  
  A quality MLRS on the other hand is much more varied in terms of price: the Chinese BM-24 is only 50 points and is extremely powerful thanks to its low supply cost and large rockets, but is very short ranged. The French M270 LRM has a very far range but fires much slower than its chinese counterpart and has to be very far away from the frontline to have minimum range on target. If you do pick an MLRS as your heavy arty, only take it it has more than 7HE, as that often correlates to excellent flesh damage and suppression effectiveness.

*Always upvet your AA.
*Stay away from cluster(AP damage) MLRS systems.

Game size consideration:

• 1v1 - Artillery of all kinds are acceptable and have a place, except cluster and napalm MLRS, which are much less useful. More often than not the tab will include 3 cards of AA, unless other tabs can cover the gaps with utility SF or certain infantry transports.
  
  
• 2v2+ - It is possible to get by using only 2 AA cards, as teammates might have enough to complement your network. Artillery is all-the-more important in team games, so running high end MLRS or Howitzer systems heavily in your support tab can really help your team win fights with the relentless HE explosions or AP cluster blobs you can shoot out.

"Lead me, follow me, or get out of my way!" The tank tab eponymously consists of tanks, of varying price categories and roles, based on the price categories. For the sake of simplicity we will divide the tanks into agreed upon “weight classes” based on their price and stats:

• Fire support tanks - cheap, practically unarmored tanks, such as the Finnish Charioteer, the M41 present in some Blufor decks and the Blufor AMX-13 family. These tanks are meant to target infantry primarily, shooting HE and dealing a lot of damage when in large numbers, especially for the low price they come at, ranging between 10 to 55 pts. Some fire support tanks are categorized as "cavalry tanks" in the in-game armory.
  
  
• Wheeled tanks - tanks, but on wheels. Their greatest advantage is their speed. Wheeled tanks are supposed to escort other wheeled units to their destination, providing them with long range fire support and covering fire. Only 2 nations have wheeled tanks in the tank tab: South Africa and France. Wheeled tanks are slightly more expensive than the previous category but can pack quite a punch, at the expense of armor for their price.
  
  
• Forest tanks - These are the cheapest MBTs one might employ, bringing decent armor, gun and workable mobility for use in close range fights. These tanks can rule forest grinds and close range combat due to numbers and rate of fire alone, granted they maintain a certain level of protection - above 13 armor on the front, to be exact. These tanks can be called upon to deal damage to other tanks, but prioritizing infantry and their transports as targets. Forest tanks range from 55 to 80 points.
  
  
• Medium tanks - the bread and butter of the UNSPEC tank tab. Medium tanks are just like apes following the chant “mediums together strong”. They have high availability per card, are cheap enough to be used for HE purposes, able to deal with all IFVs/light tanks at distance, and heavy/superheavies up close. Medium tanks range in price from 75 pts to 115 pts, and have at least 14 front armor.
  
  
• Medium-heavy/Heavy tanks - This tank's sole purpose is to pose a threat to medium and light tanks at longer ranges, without spending the full points on a superheavy. Heavy and medium-heavy tanks are well suited to scare off superheavies in medium to close distances while being a formidable threat to any lighter weight category further away, making them useful to take against mech decks. Prices for this category often are in the 110-155 pts range, and have 17-20 front armor.
  
  
• Superheavy tanks - the heaviest, meanest tanks out there. Not every deck has access to a superheavy, but those that do should utilize them often. Superheavies can often completely dominate the battlefield, due to their top notch armor, and high AP main gun. If used properly, a superheavy can be extremely hard to kill, while also being extremely lethal to all ground units in the game. Superheavy tank prices are in the 160-180 pts range.

What to take:

• 1-2x Superheavy tank - if the deck has access to a superheavy, put it in the deck. Keep the superheavy downvetted, the more the merrier. If your deck has access to 2 superheavy cards (e.g. Soviets, DGC, Eurocorps) consider taking one at veteran and one downvetted at trained. Decks which can use 2 superheavy cards are usually decks with somewhat underwhelming heavy tank options, or simply really strong superheavy options. In USSR it is possible to run upvetted T-80UM and downvetted T-72BU, and in Eurocorps it is possible to run upvetted 2A5 with downvetted Leclerc .instead of any heavy/medium-heavy tanks.
  
  
• 1-2x medium tank - Medium tanks provide you with a relatively cheap but highly potent means of dealing AP and HE to enemies. Strongest in groups of 2 or more, but capable of holding a flank solo, you should upvet your medium tanks if you have access to 7 or more from a single hardened card. If you have too few mediums when you upvet, leave them at trained.
  
  
• 0-1x Light/Forest tank - Your forest tank must have 13+ armor to not get instantly killed by an enemy tank that can reach 30 AP up close (2275m gun range, 19 AP, reaches 30 with range scaling in forest distances). Forest tanks allow you to cheaply accumulate HE and AP damage dealers that are serviceable in close, "forest range" fights at an affordable price, and can act as fire support to help your bigger tanks fight(T-80, M1 Abrams).
  
  
• 0-1x Medium-heavy/Heavy tank - every coalition has access to a heavy tank, although running them is not necessary unless it’s the heaviest option you have access to, such as the Swedish STRV-121 in Scandinavia. Heavy tanks let you fight dangerous infantry and armor without having to commit a superheavy or multiple mediums.
  
  
• 0-1x fire support tanks/wheeled tanks - running cavalry tanks/fire support tanks in a tank tab is very deck-dependent. It all depends on whether said tank can fulfill a role that other units in the deck cannot. For example, Charioteers in Baltic Front can prove to be a very good, cheap, way to get HE dispensers. In Eurocorps, the AMX-10 RC SB can be extremely useful to escort the many other wheeled units, adding some extra oomph at range to the group. In many decks, however, the infantry/light vehicle killer role can be filled by other units in other tabs.

Game size consideration:

• 1v1s - mediums and forest tanks are often the most common tanks on the field, but a few well placed heavier tanks really sway the balance of power in an area of the match. It's important to have tanks for every situation, and not to overpay for tanks whose role is to grind in forests.
  
  
• Team games - running 2 superheavies, or a more top-heavy tank tab in general, is quite powerful, and heavy armor duels are much more commonplace in team games.

"The only good recce is a dead one!" Recon can be thought of as the eyes of your frontline; you simply can not effectively engage enemy units without a recon unit; some sort of helicopter, tank, vehicle, or infantry squad, with better stealth and better optics than their regular counterparts. The way to decide what recon unit to take should be based on a combination of its ability to fight and the optical quality of the unit. The recon tab consists of:

• Recon helicopters - Recon helicopter types vary. Some are simply gunships with slightly better observational capabilities than their helicopter tab contemporaries, like the American AH-1J cobra or French Gazelle Canon. Others are death machines with exceptional optics and/or stealth, such as the American AH-64D Longbow or the W. German PAH-2 Tiger, or are simply unarmed or lightly armed scouts with good, up to exceptional optics, the price of the unit increasing and decreasing accordingly. Recon helicopters with stealth require ground optics to be spotted properly by AA.
  
  
• Recon Vehicles - Recon vehicles come in different shapes and sizes; tanks of the light and medium class, or perhaps a truck/car with optics and an MG. Good recon vehicles should be chosen purely on their ability to fight, as their stealth is medium across the board, except for the good stealth Finnish unarmed ATV. Quality examples of recon vehicles include the American M551 ACAV, the Finnish T-55M Pionpsv, Dutch AMX-13 FL-12/YP-408 C&V, Japanese Hachi-Nana shiki, Danish M41A1, Chinese ZTQ-62-I/G and others like them.
  
  
• Recon Infantry - Recon infantry are either:
  
  
  • Active - Active recon infantry are 10 man shock-trained (green background) or elite commando(red background) infantry squads with very good stealth and very good optics. If you have access to either of these, it is imperative you take them, like the Czechoslovak Pruzkumnici, Chinese Lie Ren, or Soviet Spetsnaz GRU.
    Recon commandos are subject to the same categorization of the infantry tab elites, as they too have general purpose, anti-infantry specialist and utility loadouts. Some examples include but are not limited to South Korean Teukjeonsa (general purpose), Polish Formoza (anti-infantry specialist), and Finnish Erikoisrajajääkäri (utility recon SF). Special mention goes to Israeli Maglan for having an ATGM, making them great at killing vehicles at a distance while also being extremely adept at fighting infantry when in a defensive position.
    
    
  • Passive - Passive recon squads are primarily used for their stealth and optics, less so the fighting capabilities. Passive recon squads can be either 5 men militia/regulars (green background) or 2 men commando sniper teams(red background).
    The 5 men squads are cheap, plentiful, have very good optics, but are very vulnerable to HE damage. They are a nice pick in decks without shock recon, like USSR or Landjut. 2 men sniper teams with their exceptional stealth are usable in niche situations, and can be handy when playing decks that are plane or artillery centric, but in most cases, a full strength recon commando or shock squad would be more useful instead since they can survive mortar hits and defend themselves.

What to take:

• 1-2x Recon helo - what you take will depend heavily on your deck. In USA it’s ideal to take a Longbow and AH-1J cobra, although in other decks like Soviets or DGC, taking a Ka-52 or PAH-2 Tiger as your only recon helicopter is viable. In decks where you have only unarmed, lightly armed helos, or even lighter gunship variants like the Polish W-3U Salamandra it is common to only take a single card and use the other recon slots or more useful units. If the helicopter in question is not heavily armed, exceptional optics are not necessary. If you have access to the 30 point Gazelle canon or Yugoslav Gazelle, it is imperative you take them, period.
  
  
• 1-2x Recon vehicle - some decks have access to really good recon tanks, such as the Yugoslav M-84AN or the Dutch Verkenning. In those cases, it is always worth taking them as their stealth is better protection than any amount of armor. Cheaper recon tanks and wheeled cannon/autocannon armed vehicles are also quite powerful, whether to shoot at light vehicles or at infantry. In many decks, taking vehicles such as the Czechoslovak BPzV Snezka, French AMX-10 RC, Israeli Tiran-5 Blazer, Danish 10 pt M41, and French/Dutch AMX-13 can prove useful for cheap recon fire support or flank defense/probing.
  
  
• 1-3x Active/Passive Recon infantry - typically this will look like either 2 cards of recon shocks (Chinese Lie Ren in WZ-551), two cards of recon commandos and a card of passive recon infantry (Soviet Spetsnaz GRU and Razvedka), one recon commando and one recon shock, or two recon commandos and one recon shock(Eastern Bloc Specialni Jednotky ‘90 and Spezialaufklärer). If you are taking shock recon in a helicopter, you should upvet them to veteran. If utilizing two cards of special forces, take them at elite if you get 4 each. If only taking one card of recon infantry period, make it a downvet card of a recon 10 men shock squad.

*Avoid exceptional optics (XO) ground vehicles and unarmed (XO) helicopters.
*Avoid unarmed recon vehicles.
*Avoid militia recon squads.
*Avoid anti-inf specialist recon SF and sniper teams if possible.
*Avoid having less than 4 recon cards.
*Always have at least 1 card of recon infantry in a ground transport.

Game size consideration:

• 1v1 - no changes.
  
  
• Team games - anti-inf specialist SF become viable to reliably and effectively clean towns up.

The vehicle tab consists of various odd WWII and early cold war era tank destroyers, modified IFVs, and other vehicle units that do not fit into the other tabs. The vehicle tab is the least important tab of your deck, and is best left empty save for one or two units. The vehicle tab consists of:

• Fire Support - These are close support SPAAGs, tank predecessors, repurposed IFVs for dedicated fire support use, light cannon-armed vehicles and recoilless rifle jeeps.
  
  
• Flamethrowers - Flamethrower vehicles. To put it simply, Redfor nations will typically have a repurposed T-55 or T-62 (known as a TO-55 and TO-62 respectively) to spew fire at ranges up to 1050 meters. The Americans and South Koreans have flamethrower vehicles based on an M113, with the Americans having the M67A1 Zippo, a repurposed Patton.
  
  
• Tank Destroyers - Primarily ATGM carriers with some cannon-armed vehicles as well. The units that are objectively useful in this tab are the Canadian Chimera (which can replace tank tab slots), the Chinese WZ-550, the Australian Vickers Mk.11 and the Israeli Hafiz/Pereh. Although the name of the tab is “tank destroyers”, the cheaper and more spammy specimens are similar to the "fire support" tanks found in the tank tab.

What to take:

• 0-1x Fire support - if in need of cheap HE dispensers that are not available in the tank destroyer category, IFV selection or tank tab, opt for those with the longer range and select from those based on price, mobility and armor (e.g. Rover WOMBAT, Centurion AVRE and Czech ShM vz.82 PRAM-S). Alternatively, you might choose to get a unit oriented around flank/base defense with the added bonus of providing some fire support on the frontline, such as the Danish M/92 PNMK, American M163CS or REDFOR ZSU-57-2s. Lastly, USSR has access to a unicorn unit which is a must have to take; the BMPT, a killer of infantry, light vehicles and even helicopters at close ranges, with great armor for its price.
  
  
• 0-1x Tank destroyer - ATGM vehicles of this category are largely unnecessary or simply useless due to the prominent use of smoke in any engagement involving tanks. The other option is to take the cheap fire support unirts like the South Korean M36, if no other cheap HE dispensers are present in the deck. Lastly, unicorn units like the Australian Vickers Mk.11, Canadian Chimera or the Chinese PTZ line can be useful in many situations fulfilling roles other units cannot or adding some spice to a deck.

*Avoid taking any 1 armor or less ATGM vehicles.
*Most decks would take, at most, one card in the vehicle tab, if any at all.
*Avoid Napalm units.

Game size consideration:
None

"Flying in, weapons hot!" Helicopters can win or lose you games, giving you a means of providing your forces a quick response to aircraft, vehicle or infantry threats. There are 3 types of helicopter roles in this tab, based on what the developer considers the primary armament of the helicopter:

• Anti-aircraft - Helicopters armed with air-to-air missiles to kill other helicopters or on occasion, planes. They often have other armaments which can prove quite useful in different situations, such as dealing with light vehicles or infantry.
  
  
• Anti-tank - Helicopters armed primarily with 22 AP ATGMs or higher to eliminate tanks but, like some AA helicopters, can have extra armaments capable of engaging other targets. ATGM helicopters often carry the strongest ATGMs available to a deck other than in the plane tab, and can pose a threat to tanks by providing extremely mobile and long range zoning with the ability to hold a position (unlike a plane, which must leave after a sortie).
  
  
• Gunship - Gunships are the primary helicopter types you will use in your deck, armed with only an autocannon or rocket pods, or also have an ATGM/AA missile attached to them. Commonly seen gunships include the Soviet Mi-24VP (AKA Victory Projector), the Dutch AH-64 Escort, and the Danish Fennec 20mm.

What to take:

• 0-1x Gunship - Some decks do not have quality gunships, or have gunships with such niche roles they are not worth taking. The best gunships to take, should you take one, have a rapid firing autocannon, and access to 2 HE rocket pods, like the South Korean AH-1J, costing a very affordable 55 points. If no such gunships are available, go for one with the largest turreted gun available (look at the unit model) and the most HP (e.g. North Korean Mi-25). Lastly, if none of the above are available, you may resort to bringing helicopters with just really fast firing guns (Danish and British Fennec/Lynx 20mm).
  
  
• 0-1x AA helicopter - Not all AA helicopters are created equal, and some should be avoided at all costs. The British Lynx 3 and Soviet Akula are taken for their anti-tank capabilities, not their AA missiles. If you use them in an anti-air role on purpose you are silly. A unit such as the American DAP, the French Tigre HAP, or the Chinese TY-90 are either cheap but potent (DAP), An all round powerful gunship package (HAP) or have stupidly good AA missiles (TY-90). One does not have to take either of these, but if used properly can punish players who use helicopters in a reckless and clumsy manner, giving you the upper hand in a match.
  
  
• 0-1x AT helicopter - Anti Tank helicopters can change the tide of a game if used properly. A quality anti tank helicopter has a missile system with at minimum 22 HEAT AP. Lower than this, and they simply will not be able to effectively neutralize armored targets, unlike general purpose gunships, which have a gun and rocket pods. The Chinese SA.342 HOT, the Soviet Ka-50, and the South African Rooivalk are either cheap but lethal (HOT), or expensive/high maintenance but extremely dangerous tank killer (Akula and Rooivalk). Your deck does not require this type of unit to be meta, but can be great additions to your deck if you can spare the activation points to do so.

*Avoid taking helicopters armed with grenade launchers, 1 HE rockets (with the North Korean Mi-25 being the exception).
*Avoid taking more than 2 cards of helicopters.
*If a helicopter in the recon tab, infantry transport or other category than the helicopter tab has better stats on certain weapons (e.g. AH-64D Longbow, OH-1 Ninja, PAH-2, Ka-52) it is best to use that unique helicopter than the regular one you get in the helicopter tab.

Game size consideration:

• 1v1 - minimize the amount of helicopter cards, ideally sticking with one helicopter card to supplement your needs, at most taking 2.
  
  
• Team games - the more players in a team the more heavier tanks and helicopter numbers will be on the field, so having the heavier anti-tank/anti-air helicopters becomes viable.

"Lets hope the enemy doesn't have any air defense!" A quality air tab makes or breaks a deck, and can decide the outcome of a match. Planes are a force multiplier in a fight, which can come in very quickly, eliminate high value targets and quickly get out. Planes have plenty of armament options which determine their roles and best use case the roles being one of the four following:

Air Superiority Fighters (ASFs)

Close Air Support (CAS)

Multi-role planes

Suppression of Enemy Air Defense (SEAD)

Air Superiority Fighters (ASF) - Aircraft dedicated to eliminating any aircraft, be it planes or helicopters. ASFs can further be segregated by their overall capability and ideal target type, helicopters, or planes. Here are their different types:

• Helohunters - planes that are either slow enough to kill helicopters in a dive with their gun and missiles(900 km/h or lower), have 2 sets of missiles they can fire simultaneously to destroy said helicopter, or both (e.g. North Korean MiG-29 9-12B, Yugoslav L-17K, Dutch F-104G, Israeli Shahak).
  
  
• Anti-plane ASFs - Armed primarily with missiles that can only target planes, and ideally come at hardened, veteran, or elite. There are three sub-categories of ASFs:
  
  
  • "Horde" ASFs - ASFs in the up-to-90 pts range which are best used in groups of 2-3 to achieve reliable results, trading effectiveness of individual planes for strength in numbers with the ability to overwhelm single targets and are not a big loss if shot down (e.g. NK/E. GER MiG-23ML, Polish MiG-23MF, Australian F-4E Phantom II). Anti-air rocket planes also fall into the last category. These planes have 20% ecm or less.
    
    
  • “Workhorse” ASFs - ASF cards with an availability of 2 in the hardened/veteran/elite veterancy range, having a missile loadout able to engage both planes and helicopters, and often a gun to accompany the missiles, priced at 100 to 160 points, and having 30-40% ecm.
    
    
  • Super ASFs - a category reserved for the cream of the crop of fighter jets, in the price range of 170-180 pts. Equipped with plenty of air-to-air missiles and a gun for dog fights; super ASFs all have 50% ecm, come on rookie/elite veterancy, and should always be upvetted for maximum effect out of the expensive unit you gain access to (e.g. Soviet Su-27PU, American F-15C Eagle, French Rafale C F1).
  
  
• Interceptors - Interceptor Aircraft are a unique category of ASFs with their own tab in game that are dedicated to intercepting enemy planes (as the name suggests), but are special because their missiles can be fired from extra long ranges of 12600m. They are the American F-14 Tomcat, the Soviet MiG-31 and MiG-31M. You should not use these aircraft due to their low rate of fire but also their low accuracy. Useful in team games, but not in a competitive 1v1 setting. The main selling point of the interceptor is the exceptional+ air detection, allowing them to identify enemy planes at twice the range of any other ASF, and having enough HE on their missiles to stun any plane with a single hit, preventing a drop of ordnance.

CAS aircraft (Close Air Support) are planes whose primary purpose are to attack given targets exclusively on the ground. There are "multi-role" planes that will be covered in a later section. For this section, we will focus primarily on:

• Anti-Tank Planes - These are aircraft that eliminate vehicles and tanks, and have no other armament other than a gun, an anti tank missile, or rocket pods. Quality anti-tank planes either carry 26 AP or higher missiles (American A-10A, South Korean Peace Pheasant II), or are simple rocket pod planes that are useful for eliminating light vehicles, AA and infantry (Danish F-100D, North Korean F-5B, and Yugoslav J-22B ORAO 2).
  
  
• Bombers - Aircraft with bombs and typically nothing else, except maybe a gun. Bombers are useful against infantry and vehicles alike. There are two types of bombers; HE bombers and Cluster Bombers.
  
  • HE Bombers - Doing excellent damage to infantry and vehicles alike, being a good general purpose unit for many different situations. Examples include the Australian F-111C "Pig," North Korean B-5, and American Nighthawk.
    
    
  • Cluster Bombers - These planes only deal damage to ground vehicles and helicopters, but are not labeled as anti-tank planes in the in-game armory. Cluster bombers should only be taken if they are extremely cheap and survivable(British Jaguar Gr.1 or East German Mig-23BN) or have a large enough payload to outright kill most tanks in the game if you right click on them(American F-111F Aardvark, Danish F-16A Block 5 or the Swedish AJS-37 Viggen).

The largest category of aircraft in the game, multirole aircraft make up the most important parts of a player’s airtab, containing the highest quality bombers, anti-tank aircraft, and occasionally ASFs.
Many of the aircraft in this section would fit in the categories listed above, but arrive in the multirole section since they are armed with short range air-to-air missiles.

We can divide these planes into two groups, those with SRAAMs (Short Range Air to Air Missiles) and those with MRAAMS (Medium Range Air to Air missiles):

• SRAAM armed aircraft would be units like the Chinese J-7H, West German F-4F Peace Rhine, Norwegian F-16A Fighting Falcon, Czech MiG-29 9-12A, American F-15D Eagle, British Harrier Gr.5/7, Polish Su-22M4 Seria 30, Soviet Su-25T, and Yugoslav Super Galeb.
  
  
• MRAAM armed aircraft would be units like the Soviet Su-27M, Soviet Mig-29M, Dutch F-16A Block 15 OCU, Israeli Kurnass, and Danish F-16A MLU.

Veterancy options, payload and air-to-air loadout determine what role the plane is stronger at. For example, the Soviet MiG-29M may have cluster bombs but the payload is anaemic and incapable of killing most tanks at full HP, so it's better used as an elite backup ASF. Another example is the F-4F Peace Rhine from West Germany, which is useful as both a cheap AT plane as well as a helohunter. Meanwhile, the Israeli Kurnass has unreliable air-to-air missiles so it should be used only as a ground attack aircraft unless extremely desperate.

The proper employment of SEAD will give your aircraft free reign over the battlefield. SEAD units specialize in the Suppression of Enemy Air Defense, being able to shoot missiles at radar AA pieces that are currently turned on, invaluable for removing radar AA you can not currently see. There are two categories of SEAD, listed here:

• Traditional SEAD - SEAD planes with no stealth (Czech Su-7B, Israeli Ayit, British Sea Harrier FA.2), planes with medium stealth (Soviet Su-24, East German Su-22M4P, Soviet MiG-25BM, West German Tornado ECR, American EA-6B Prowler, Chinese JH-7A Feibao), and lastly, the American EF-111A “Spark-Vark” Raven, the game’s sole super SEAD, with 60% ECM and good stealth.
  
  
• Non-traditional SEAD - SEAD planes with extra armaments that make them unique. The South African Cheetah D is a SEAD aircraft that is HE based, not AP based, and as a result can fire position with its missiles and be used as a bomber. The Norwegian F-5A Puff, Israeli Kurnass 2000 and the South Korean F-16C Block 52D are ASFs with SEAD missiles, the Puff excelling at helicopter hunting and the Kurnass 2000/Block 52D at fighting enemy aircraft.

What to take:

• 1-2x dedicated ASF - ASFs specifically armed to kill planes and helicopters only. These are chosen based on their missile load, price, ECM and veterancy. If opting for a single card of ASFs, it is usually best to go for the more expensive workhorse like the West German F-4F KWS which has 2 availability at veteran, giving you 2 accurate and survivable planes with a good missiles and ECM for an affordable price. Fitting in heli-hunters like the North Korean Mig-29 or Yugoslav L-17K should seriously be considered if you have access to units like them.
  
  
• 0-2x anti-tank planes - A good anti-tank plane can eliminate very expensive assets on the field in the blink of an eye, potentially making or breaking a fight between tanks, stopping a tick by killing a CV, killing an AA piece and so on. Your plane should have at least 26 AP missiles, or be one of the highlighted cluster bombers in the CAS section above.
  
  
• 0-2x HE bombers - Bombers are powerful crowd-control planes, with the ability to wipe soft targets off the map. A rule of thumb to remember is that a small amount of large HE bombs are more effective than a larger amount of smaller HE bombs. LGB (Laser-Guided Bomb) bombers can be devastating to tanks, when right-clicking on them especially. High HE LGBs such as the American F-117 Nighthawk and the Israeli Kurnass are among the best, most versatile ground attack aircraft in the game, easily destroying all ground targets and even helicopters caught within the blast.
  
  
• 0-1x SEAD - Despite the positives SEAD can bring to your deck, it is not a must have in many coalitions or decks. Entente’s only SEAD option, the Czech Su-7B, while affordable and able to come at veteran, only comes with one SEAD missile, limiting its utility and effectiveness. In decks like Red Dragons, aircraft may be too cheap/plentiful to bother using with SEAD. In Blue Dragons, your SEAD plane, the Block 52D, is also your best ASF, and should be taken at elite. In any coalition with West Germany in it, the Tornado ECR is a fantastic SEAD plane and can be taken to reliably escort any ground attack aircraft.

*Always upvet your ASFs.
*Avoid taking SEAD planes with no stealth if an alternative is available.
*Keep plane tabs between 3 to 5 cards, depending on the deck.
*To shoot two close range (IR) missiles at a helicopter when diving, a plane must have 900 km/h or less speed.


Game size consideration:

• 1v1 - cheap, spammy ground attack aircraft can be more viable, as is not taking SEAD.
  
  
• 2v2 - SEAD and more expensive/advanced strike planes are recommended, as well as higher-end ASFs.
  
  
• 3v3+ - interceptors become viable, and super ASFs are almost mandatory. SEAD is mandatory too. High ECM planes are highly recommended over the cheaper, spammier options.

The following are 1v1 decks of my own or others that follow the writings of the guide;

• USA
  This deck focuses on using Light Rifleman 90 to zone with their dragons, US Marines 90 for extra oomph in off flanks and pushes, with a large emphasis on rifleman spam in front of heavy Abrams tanks, ontos, and LAV-25s. Your longbow is used to provide extra anti-tank capability with its fire and forget ATGMs and exceptional optics. The Paladin is used to shell the frontline, or to destroy enemy AA, artillery and CVs.
  
  
  @AM8B0cQwCOIYBMmMAmTGAbJBzE45IScckJJ6ixBi8WbFmtaBaakmkpaKAhvEgJJ2idIn0WcicIsKakSCshxUEkooqAA=
  
  
• USSR
  This deck uses has a large emphasis on IFV and heavy tank symmetry. The GRU in the BTR-90 can be used as fighting infantry, and the BMP-3, BTR-90, and BTR-T dominate in their roles as integrated fire support for their infantry squads. The Ka-52 and Mi-28 work in tandem to spot and obliterate enemy armor. The uragan is used to stun enemy pushes as they happen, or to stun an area you yourself are about to push.
  
  
  @Qs8CGtMKzWmFYjnMKiGBhSdwvkgYVyLUViT2DFAyJ0kEIJqQECeyJfaP2mYmHJh0HoobII0ZpHbJRUThE3RM0AMivYHg
  
  
• Blue Dragons
  
  This deck relies on sochongsu spam supported by numerous Kyu-Maru-Shiki superheavies and K1s. Teukjeonsa are especially useful for fighting, sneaking, and spotting. The Ninja is fantastic for spotting units without being seen, allowing your K9 thunders to destroy units on the front, or your opponents back line...
  
  @Ij8CUKVsiZoM2GzajDZtRQqj6k2iqizMXJZmLlMzNsVBoXaPXGptZ6QElupbqSYUCFAiFwGiEZRCSi8kXRbAj7A=
  
  
• Red Dragons
  
  This deck is for those that like fast, explosive openers with mechanized play later on in the game. Lie Ren and Tanke Shoushou 85 in the wz-551 allow you to quickly arrive at the front to destroy enemy units with your affordable autocannons and good infantry accompanying them. Your AA network is one of the most potent in the game especially thanks to the fug0t and hwasongchong combo. The ZTQ-62G is a powerful recon tank that allows you to bully your opponent on off flanks or front line, and the BM-24 MLRS is very easy to spam, just be wary of its short range.
  
  
• Eastern Bloc
  Here, you troll your opponent with LSTR; their powerful anti-tank capability and their manpads allow you to use them on flanks or the front line possibly shooting down enemy aircraft, while your cost effective mot-schutzen 90 in BMP-2s and motostrelci in 5 pointers work with your T-72s to push. Lekha Pekhota in the Mi-17 are used airdrop in an area, obliterating enemies with rocket pods, allowing your lekhas to zone far away vehicles with their recoilless rifles. The Ondava is used to shell the front, destroy enemy AA, artillery, and possibly CVs.
  
  
• Commonwealth
  
  In this commonwealth deck, your attention is focused on your Challenger 2 and Challenger 1, tanks that are very powerful for their respective prices thanks to their high armor; using them in tandem with your fusiliers to push open areas and forests. Your Commandos 90 are fantastic for forest/town grinds thanks to their extra anti-infantry DPS, while your SAS sneak around destroying enemy aircraft and vehicles, or sit in your base/quiet flank as base defense. The 15 point Scimitar is used to cheaply put recon on the map/be base defense. A pair of AS-90s will obliterate the front line and make quick work of any AA, artillery, or CVs whose locations you are aware of.