Vogue Business

As the planet heats up, clothing that cools us down could be the future - but what is air-conditioned clothing? At #ParisFashionWeek this season, Tokyo-based brand Anrealage drew gasps of awe from the audience by inflating nylon dresses into huge, avant-garde shapes after incorporating electric fans into the fabric. Naming the collection ‘Wind’, designer Kunihiko Morinaga explained that his puffed-up dresses were circulated with air to create revolutionary new silhouettes, but also to keep wearers cool. This summer was the planet’s hottest on record, according to Copernicus, the EU’s climate service. This has worrying implications for public health: the World Health Organisation reports that heat stress is the leading cause of weather-related deaths, with the number of people exposed to extreme heat around the world rising “exponentially” because of climate change. “By showing air-conditioned clothes in Paris, we hope to be able to suggest new physical forms, but also a #sustainable solution to hot weather,” says Morinaga, adding that air-conditioned clothing, with fans powered by pocket-sized batteries, can be used to reduce the CO2 that would usually be omitted to keep people a comfortable temperature in large buildings. Find out more: https://lnkd.in/eSAuiujZ

Just in: Kim Jones is stepping down from his role as artistic director of Fendi, LVMH announced today. The British designer succeeded the late Karl Lagerfeld in designing Fendi haute couture, ready-to-wear and fur in 2020. Silvia Venturini Fendi will continue her role as creative director of accessories, men’s and childrenswear at her family’s label, while her daughter Delfina Delettrez (Jones’s muse during his time at the helm), will continue to design jewellery. “Kim Jones is a highly talented designer who has brought his unique and multicultural vision to Fendi over the past four years. I would like to thank him for his contribution and look forward to continuing to witness his creativity at Dior Men’s,” said Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, in a statement. Here's everything to know: https://lnkd.in/e29RmtpU

This week, the Metropolitan Museum of Art announced the Costume Institute’s spring 2025 exhibition, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” Drawing inspiration from Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity,” the exhibit will explore the indelible style of Black men in the context of dandyism, from the 18th-century through present day. The 2025 #MetGala chairs could not be more fitting. On Monday, May 5, Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, ASAP Rocky, Pharrell Williams, and Anna Wintour will co-chair the 2025 Gala, alongside honorary chair LeBron James. Swipe for a look back at the 2024 #MetGala, photographed by Phil Oh. Here's everything to know: https://lnkd.in/exKmAb5j

Today's designers are facing new challenges. The fashion calendar and ensuing overproduction have accelerated at an unprecedented rate, and the system that supported the great designers of the past is barely recognisable today. We surveyed 300 fashion designers and interviewed industry experts to ask: what does it mean to be a fashion designer today? Here's what we found out.

The Louis Vuitton America’s Cup is starting tomorrow. It’s the world’s most historic and prestigious sailing competition, and has drawn unprecedented interest from luxury players as they battle for the spend of wealth consumers. Puig, Omega, Prada, Tudor, Panerai and L’Oréal are among other luxury companies partnering with the event, in different capacities. Why does a relatively niche sport draw so much interest from so many brands? Jordan Wise, founder of Gaffer, a media platform focused on athletes and brands, sees several reasons: “One, the America’s Cup is synonymous with high society, wealth and exclusivity. The audience is typically affluent, making it an ideal platform for luxury brands to align themselves with an event that shares their values of prestige and exclusivity. By partnering with the America’s Cup, luxury brands can reinforce their association with an elite lifestyle, which appeals to their target demographic. The event’s history and tradition add to the narrative of timeless quality that many luxury brands promote.” Here, Laure Guilbault has the details. https://lnkd.in/eehJTECM

What’s trending on TikTok this October? Creator Jools Lebron’s viral “very demure, very mindful” trend may have triggered the end of #BRATsummer, but according to the #VogueBusiness TikTok Trend Tracker, #CharliXCX is still dominating this autumn. Her track ‘Guess,’ an unexpected collaboration with #BillieEilish, has sparked over 140,000 dance routines and creative edits. Charli XCX may have a smaller reach than megastars like Beyoncé or Taylor Swift, and she’s not a buzzy breakthrough star either (Brat is her sixth album). But the English songstress has captured the zeitgeist this summer by celebrating women’s insecurities as well as their confidence. On TikTok, audiences have become obsessed with Charli’s whole persona and everything Brat, says Kristina Karassoulis, head of luxury partnerships at TikTok in the UK. “With Brat going stratospheric both on and off TikTok, it was only a matter of time before it morphed into a viral aesthetic. Charli isn’t selling a perfect, polished image and fans on TikTok always respond well to content that is authentic and real.” Here, Lucy Maguire crunches exclusive data, breaking down the other hottest trends and creators captivating users on the platform: https://lnkd.in/djYy-yaD

LVMH! Woolmark! Andam! Despite an abundance of talent incubation schemes and prestigious fashion prizes, emerging designers are still finding it difficult to break through the ranks. When Colm Dillane, founder of KidSuper, won LVMH’s coveted prize in 2021, he called it “life-changing,” crediting the award for his role as interim creative director at Louis Vuitton following Virgil Abloh’s passing. But while his story is a rare success, not all prize winners are as fortunate—or ready—to capitalise on such an opportunity. Though major prizes like the LVMH Prize, #AndamPrize, and #InternationalWoolmarkPrize have produced over 100 winners and countless finalists, the benefits are often short-lived. Here, Bella Webb and Maliha Shoaib explore what fashion’s top prizes are really worth, in the latest ‘Debunking The Star Designer Dream’ series: https://lnkd.in/d-fhY9-g Swipe to play fashion prizes top trumps, with a selection of prizes in the spotlight.

Who won Spring/Summer 2025 on social? The season created a major buzz across social media platforms. But which brands won the battle for clicks and likes? Despite many brands scaling back on production and #celebrity runway casting due to a #luxury market slowdown, they still splurged on A-list front rows, heavily featuring K-pop idols and Thai actors—a strategy that paid off. According to influencer marketing platform Lefty and brand agency KARLA OTTO, SS25 generated a staggering $839.6 million in earned media value (EMV), marking a 59% increase from AW24 and a 16% rise from SS24. “What’s the point in a grand location if you don’t have someone to take a picture in it?” jokes PR guru Lucien Pagès, who represented brands across #fashion’s ‘big four’ this season. Here, Lucy Maguire breaks down the wins: https://lnkd.in/eJ9Ziu3t

What does it take to run an independent fashion brand today? It’s been a bad year for independent designers. Since June 2023, multiple cult brands have entered administration or filed for bankruptcy: Christopher Kane, Dion Lee, The Vampire’s Wife, Interior and Calvin Luo, to name just a few. They have had a lot to contend with. Bricks-and-mortar wholesalers were already struggling pre-pandemic, but the e-commerce bubble then burst, leaving independent brands with unpaid invoices and a decimated retail presence. In the meantime, geopolitical tensions and macroeconomic headwinds wreaked havoc on shipping routes and pushed up prices. Brands have had to navigate raw material shortages, inflation, a cost of living crisis and an energy crisis — all at once. In a period of collapse, how should the independent designer ecosystem rebuild? Here’s what experts and survey respondents told Bella Webb and Maliha Shoaib. https://lnkd.in/eTaNRr-C Swipe to play ‘What kind of designer are you’ top trumps!

From Marc Jacobs enlisting Nara Smith to bake a tote bag “from scratch”, to Burberry promoting a scarf with a duck, the face of digital engagement is changing according to the Vogue Business Fashion Index. As TikTok’s rise democratises the social media landscape, smaller brands like Loewe and Marc Jacobs continue to gain traction, signalling changes in digital strategy for luxury brands. Luxury brands are also navigating the balance between engaging with social media trends and maintaining their high-fashion status, and as social commerce emerges in Western markets, they are facing pressure to adapt. It’s not just organic performance that is driving changes in the digital landscape. AI has long driven algorithmic performance, yet new tools are assisting both brands and creators in navigating the complex social media space. What luxury brands are winning digital? https://lnkd.in/eGJtpk8J