'You feel bulletproof' - why Eden Park is the All Blacks' fortress

On a wall at the south-west corner of Eden Park is a mural by the American street artist WRDSMTH.

It depicts a couple embracing along with the words: "This is a perfect spot to fall in love."

For the last 30 years, the All Blacks' opponents would strongly disagree.

There are many treacherous places to visit in international rugby. Ellis Park in Johannesburg, France's Stade de France and Ireland's Aviva Stadium have all been formidable venues in recent years.

In the 1980s, the Parc des Princes in Paris was a graveyard for touring teams, as was Ballymore in Brisbane in the 90s. At the turn of the century, no-one used to win at Twickenham.

But none of these even come close to the record New Zealand hold at Eden Park in Auckland.

Since 1921, only 10 losses. A winning record of nearly 90%. And no defeat since the French went to the other end of the world in 1994. A run of 48 matches unbeaten.

"It is our spiritual home, it is our fortress," All Blacks great Ian Jones explained on the BBC Rugby Union Daily podcast.

"And when you think of it as your fortress, you protect your fortress with all your might.

"The All Blacks jersey lifted you anyway, but you absolutely knew the expectation to play with all your heart and to not lose at Eden Park.

"And because of that history, you feel bulletproof."

Compared to many state-of-the art stadiums worldwide, there is a modesty to Eden Park. The 50,000 capacity is dwarfed by some other international rugby grounds. The crowd is not overtly hostile.

But walking around the perimeter, there is a reminder at every corner of what the place means, from the statue of legendary flanker Michael Jones - diving to score a try in 1987 - to the bust of Tumatauenga, the Maori God of War.

"Any arena where battle ensues is bestowed the name Te Marae Atea a Tumatauenga - the battle domain of Tumatauenga," reads the plaque.

"In today's context, Eden Park is such a place. A domain of battle where contemporary gladiators clash under the banner of sport with an intensity and ferocity reminiscent of that of the ancestors."

"Eden Park has that special kind of meaning," adds Jones.

"We have always understood about the aura and the power of Eden Park, and we have always thought it is the home of All Blacks rugby.

"It has always been a case that this is our turf, this is our fortress, let's circle the wagons, this is our ground and we never, ever lose here."

A generation of New Zealand fans will never have experienced defeat in Auckland. But many others will still remember 1994 well, as Jones does.

"It was Jonah Lomu's first series for the All Blacks," he recalled. "We had lost the week before at Lancaster Park. So this game was a big, big deal."

Down at half-time, the All Blacks were ahead with minutes to go and on the verge of squaring the series. Jones himself won a line-out and New Zealand cleared into French territory.

"Stephen Bachop kicked it long. And all hell exploded," Jones said.

"Philippe Saint-Andre just went on a caper, went through three or four players, and then: bang, bang, bang."

Deylaud. Benazzi. Ntamack. Cabannes. Back to Deylaud. Sadourny finishing off a try for the ages. The fortress had been stormed with - fittingly - one of the most iconic scores in rugby history.

"One of the all-time great tries," declared Kiwi commentator Keith Quinn, a statement as true three decades on as it was in the moment.

"We should have sealed it, we didn't, and they were brilliant," Jones says.

"I didn't lose that often in an All Blacks jersey, but the ones I did live in my head even until today.

"Sometimes no matter how desperate you are, how committed you are, how united you are, rugby beats you."

A few teams have come close since that day. South Africa in 1994 and the British and Irish Lions in 2017 managed credible draws.

The French in the Rugby World Cup final of 2011 couldn't have done too much more, while three years later England themselves had a shot at history before succumbing late on.

Most though, have been blown away. Australia have tried and failed 20 times.

For modern day players, they will feel the weight of history. The challenge for this crop of All Blacks is to be helped by that, rather than hindered. The England camp this week have spoken about the "burden" that New Zealand need to carry this weekend.

"It's their 30 years to worry about," says England assistant coach Richard Wigglesworth, who started at Eden Park in 2008.

"I will be honoured at the challenge, at what I call my second home," says Auckland Blues full-back Stephen Perofeta, who will be playing a Test match at his home ground for the first time.

"[The record] is something we have to honour and realise the legacy that has come before us is impressive and one we have to maintain."

"We have to keep making Eden Park special," agrees All Blacks coach Scott Robertson.

"You aren't just taking on the team. You are taking on that history," adds Jones.

"Legacy is a strong word in New Zealand rugby. It is not just the team, but the people who have gone before.

"The legacy of the jersey is really important - you are trying to enhance it, but you also don't want to diminish it.

"And that means not losing at Eden Park."

Since arriving in New Zealand, England have spoken about the "opportunity" they have on this tour; to play - and try to win - against the All Blacks on their home patch.

The opportunity this weekend is not just to rewrite English rugby history, but to turn the whole rugby world upside down.

New Zealand v England second Test

Date: Saturday 14 July Kick-off: 08:05 BST Venue: Eden Park, Auckland

Coverage: Listen to live commentary on BBC Radio 5 Live and BBC Sounds and follow live text commentary on the BBC Sport website and app.