The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    Please let me know what strings you would use on a ‘46 L5 (so it’s an acoustic archtop)? There are d’Addario EJ21 strings on it now, but I think I want to change.

    Flatwounds? Roundwounds? Thomastik Infeld Swing? Thomastik Infeld Bebop? Monel? Bronze? 80/20? Other?

    Music I play on it is mostly jazz standards, american songbook and swing.

    Thanks in advance!

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  3. #2

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    80/20s, any brand. They'll start out bright and harsh, but after a few hours they'll really bring out that guitar's acoustic voice.

    I'd never put flatwounds on an acoustic archtop, but if it had a pickup, well, that's a different story.
    Last edited by mr. beaumont; 07-09-2024 at 10:14 AM.

  4. #3

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    I happened to watch this video by Matt Munisteri just before seeing this thread. He uses Monels on his '49. He says they're not as loud as acoustic strings but he prefers the tone.

  5. #4

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    Another vote for 80/20's, though I would use round core strings for less tension. Curt Mangan makes them. 12's or 13's will work (I use the 12's on my vintage D'Angelicos).

    80/20 strings were developed by John D'Angelico and John D'Addario for use with acoustic archtops. They have more definition than the Monel strings that were in use at the time. Flatwounds came later and are great for electric guitars. Phosphor Bronze came even later and are great for flattop guitars.

    But for a non-cut acoustic archtop, go with 80/20 strings. They will bring out the best in your guitar, particularly after they have settled in (about 10 hours of use)

  6. #5

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    This is opinion but 100% definitely 80/20.

  7. #6

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    What kind of sound are you looking for? A vintage/authentic one, iow like the instrument would have sounded in the late 40s, or just the optimal sound according to current-day tastes? In that case you could experiment with mixing winding alloys. I know of only 1 off-the-shelf set that is composed like that (Cleartone EQs, almost the opposite of the phosphor-bronze for the G and D strings and 80/20 brass for the A and E that I use).

    Quote Originally Posted by Stringswinger
    Another vote for 80/20's, though I would use round core strings for less tension. )
    The TI Plectrums suggested above are round-core and are lower tension than their gauges suggest. Personally I prefer the sound of the Spectrums which are probably a wound with a slightly different alloy (there's some difference in colour according to my eyes). The advantage for me is that they're all round-wounds, whereas in the AC112 there is at least 1 flatwound (the G, which means it's fragile and makes for a strange transition to the plain wire B).
    Both are silk-and-steel design, which may not be what you want for swing.

  8. #7

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    I prefer Monels (Martin Retros) on my acoustic L5 and Super 400.

  9. #8

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    With such a nice guitar it s worth to Experiment a bit. On my acoustic Archtops I Play Thomastik BB 14.

  10. #9

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    You will have to try some yourself. My 1947 L7 sounded dead with flat wounds. Sounds great with round wound.

  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by fabiansey
    With such a nice guitar it s worth to Experiment a bit. On my acoustic Archtops I Play Thomastik BB 14.
    I want to try Thomastik Infeld BB113

  12. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by 58dutchie
    I want to try Thomastik Infeld BB113
    Are you planning on using a pickup?

  13. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by 58dutchie
    I want to try Thomastik Infeld BB113
    I have used those and for amplified guitar, they are great. Acoustically, I think they leave a lot of tone on the table.

  14. #13

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    Well, I can tell you on my 1938 L5 is does not get bronze strings I hate them for the most part of any alloy. Right now, I have Pure Nickle Daddario on it, and they sound nice and smooth. Bronze strings go bad fast and finger noise is too much I play mostly chord melody on it and in fact all my guitars.

  15. #14

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    I've been experimenting with acoustic alternatives to brass/bronze. D'Addario Nickel Bronze, GHS White Bronze, DR Black Beauties, etc. They seem less sticky under my fingers than the b/b varieties.

  16. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Woody Sound
    I've been experimenting with acoustic alternatives to brass/bronze. D'Addario Nickel Bronze, GHS White Bronze, DR Black Beauties, etc. They seem less sticky under my fingers than the b/b varieties.
    FWIW, while D’Addario Nickel Bronze and GJS White Bronze sound similar, they aren’t at all. Both have a hex steel core for the wound strings, but the Nickel Bronze windings are nickel plated phosphor bronze while the White Bronze are a nickel-steel alloy.


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  17. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by deacon Mark
    Well, I can tell you on my 1938 L5 is does not get bronze strings I hate them for the most part of any alloy. Right now, I have Pure Nickle Daddario on it, and they sound nice and smooth. Bronze strings go bad fast and finger noise is too much I play mostly chord melody on it and in fact all my guitars.
    I have these strings on it now. But I miss some treble I guess.

    What strings for a 1946 Gibson L-5?-img_3688-jpeg

  18. #17

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    The Thomastik bb 13 are also nice but the strings in the middle are a bit too thin for my taste. For electric archtop I really like them. Just try different strings over a year. It s a fun Journey

  19. #18

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    And for acoustic Archtops, I much prefer higher gauges on the plain strings. Try 13 and 17.

  20. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatRhythmMan
    FWIW, while D’Addario Nickel Bronze and GJS White Bronze sound similar, they aren’t at all. Both have a hex steel core for the wound strings, but the Nickel Bronze windings are nickel plated phosphor bronze while the White Bronze are a nickel-steel alloy.

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    Thanks. I just know that my fingers glide along the windings much easier than on bronze/brass, especially after a couple of weeks.

  21. #20

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    13
    17
    25
    32
    42
    53

    ^^ my preferred set of gauges for acoustic archtops. Usually if you buy a set of 12s and swap out the treble strings for heavier gauge, you'll be set.

    As for brand. I tried a LOT of strings in the past and still prefer Philippe Bosset over any alternative.

  22. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mick-7
    But what brand of strings did you decide on?
    I didn't.

  23. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by omphalopsychos
    ^^ my preferred set of gauges for acoustic archtops.
    Gauges are probably even more specific to each individual archtop design, plus they're linked to the strings you chose.

    Until recently I used Thomastik Spectrum SB24 SB32 SB44 SB57 with a 16 B and a 13 E1. The wound strings correspond to the tensions of the Plectrum AC112 set. Buying singles gets expensive so I've had Pyramid make me a number of sets with those tensions and the same silk-and-steel design (but hand-polished for good measure).

  24. #23

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    I don't quite get the nickel electric strings on an acoustic archtop played acoustically but what do I know.
    If you're amplifying it I could see it but....

  25. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by wintermoon
    I don't quite get the nickel electric strings on an acoustic archtop played acoustically but what do I know.
    If you're amplifying it I could see it but....
    That’s where I think the GHS White Bronze fall short. They are intended to be more like bronze acoustically and also be great for magnetic pickups. They seem fine for electric strings, but I think they fall short as acoustic strings.


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  26. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatRhythmMan
    That’s where I think the GHS White Bronze fall short. They are intended to be more like bronze acoustically and also be great for magnetic pickups. They seem fine for electric strings, but I think they fall short as acoustic strings.


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    I totally agree. I've also been disappointed by "hybrid" acoustic/electric strings. Manufacturers seem to focus too much on marketing hybrid alloys like monel, nickel-plated bronze, and nickel/bronze. These materials often compromise acoustic tone significantly.

    From a physics standpoint, the core size of a string fundamentally affects its interaction with magnetic pickups. Larger steel cores generate more magnetic flux when vibrating, which produces a stronger electric signal and, consequently, greater electric volume. This is well-documented in electromagnetic theory, where the strength of the magnetic field directly correlates with the volume of material within the field

    I've found that prioritizing core-to-wrap ratios is a far more effective strategy for balancing acoustic tone and magnetic output. Larger steel cores enhance magnetism, which boosts electric volume, without sacrificing acoustic quality. For example, Philippe Bosset 80/20 and GHS Vintage Bronze offer bronze strings with a balanced electric volume and rich acoustic tone, leveraging optimal core-to-wrap ratios.

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