How can you incorporate sustainable wool into your fashion designs?

Attention à la confusion entre la Laine et les autres types de fibres ou de fils. Il n’y a pas de Laine synthétique, elle n’existe que sous sa forme naturelle (la tonte du mouton) et peut effectivement être certifiée d’un point de vue du traitement de l’animal (justement), notamment le mulesing free, et/ou environnemental et sociale.

First up, consider what "sustainable" wool looks like. The land that the sheep are reared on, their welfare and what they are fed, the processing stages of turning the fleece into fibre into yarn, the livelihoods of the farmers and their income, the breed of the sheep in terms of product applications... all of these and more need to be considered before giving it the term "sustainable". Wool in itself can inherently be a sustainable fibre environmentally when compared to synthetics, if rearing and processing stages are carefully monitored (preferably with regenerative outcomes), and then with a view to circular end of life of that product - but wool is not inherently socially just. This is why you need to recognise what sustainable means.

La certification RWS est effectivement la certification de référence pour la laine et en particulier pour ce qui concerne sa traçabilité (certaines filatures dans certaines conditions peuvent communiquer sur la ferme en Australie, ou ailleurs, d’où vient la laine).

Ensuring wool is sustainable does not and should not always fall to certifications. While marks like the Responsible Wool Standard are useful for assurances of origin and welfare from a large producer, the smallscale producers such as those found in the UK need to find other avenues. Certificates are useful for customers of big brands/retailers, though if designers build close relationships with wool producers on the ground then verification could be done respectfully to individual context. Similarly with processing stages, building relationships with mills ensures you have realtime knowledge. It obviously is not always practical so standards are welcomed, though understanding of scale and context should come before demanding certificates.

Wool is a fibre that provides countless positive properties whether for casualwear or performance. Oftentimes, fibres are blended to change a product application or to lower costs, and while this lends itself to creative designs, this may confuse the customer as to the true properties of wool. There are a lot of preconceptions of wool based on past experience e.g. it's itchy, and so in order to creatively utilise wool to engage customers in purchasing is it better to disguise it with blends or to let the fibre sing alone? Building close relationships with farmers (for suitable breeds), with mills (for processing yarn appropriately) and manufacturers (for careful handling) requires commitment, but knowledge allows greater creative freedom.

Il existe de plus en plus d’offre de laines certifiées mais celle ci reste contrainte par les volumes et il est recommandé, comme pour le coton certifié, sans doute même plus, de communiquer avec son fournisseur de fibres ou de fils pour s’assurer d’une quantité suffisante en production.

Considering holistically where your wool fibre originates - and how it will end up once finished with - is key to your understanding of what sustainability is in this context. This means environmentally, but also socially and economically. Large producers differ greatly from small, so bear this in mind. Building close relationships is integral to these three pillars, and though this requires commitment and a long-term vision, you'll be better placed to recognise what is and isn't "sustainable" for you and your customers. Look to the Fibershed/Fibreshed movement for system insight and producer lists, different farming standards such as Pasture For Life, and take guidance from designers who have already researched and experimented.