Rhett Ayers Butler recounts how a visit to Madagascar in the 1990s led him to start WildMadagascar.org and do investigative reporting on the country's rosewood crisis in the late 2000s and early 2010s.
Madagascar: The trip that changed everything My obsession with 🇲🇬 began in childhood. While my friends hung out at the mall or played video games, I hoarded books on the island’s chameleons and lemurs, dreaming of the day I would see them myself. I saved every spare dollar—from jobs, birthdays, even the Tooth Fairy—to fund my future adventure. By college, I had enough money and travel experience to make the trip happen. I signed up for an Earthwatch project studying black lemurs on Nosy Komba, a speck of land off Madagascar’s northern coast. Two weeks of fieldwork, then three-and-a-half weeks to explore the country on my own. Chameleons, lemurs, and baobabs—here I come. Then, reality set in. Within 24 hours of my arrival, my bags were stolen out of my thatched dwelling, leaving me with little more than the clothes on my back. I navigated a boat capsizing, a mugging attempt, police interrogations, severe food poisoning, and a missed flight home. At one point, I watched helplessly as a deadly car accident unfolded before me, the kind of tragedy that replays in slow motion long after it’s over. But I also saw wonders. More chameleons than I could count. Three dozen species of lemurs, including the eerie, elusive aye-aye. I met extraordinary people, many of whom were working to protect Madagascar’s forests against impossible odds. A reasonable person might have called it quits. But I’m not reasonable when it comes to Madagascar. I vowed to return. And in 2004, I did. That trip solidified my commitment—not just to Madagascar, but to something bigger. I launched WildMadagascar.org, a small website to highlight the cultural and biological richness of Madagascar for English-speakers. Years later, when Madagascar’s political crisis led to the rampant destruction of its rainforests, WildMadagascar and Mongabay were at the center of efforts to expose the rosewood trade. Our reporting disrupted multimillion-dollar shipments, sparked diplomatic pressure, and helped push the government to reinstate logging bans. It all started with a childhood obsession, a willingness to dive in, and an unwavering belief that information can drive change. Some dreams begin as whispers. If you listen long enough, they can turn into something much louder. Or at least into a persistent hum.
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