Clean Clothes Campaign’s Post

What is luxury, really? This question takes on a whole new meaning in the light of recent revelations about ‘sweatshops’ in the suburbs of Milan, where bags from major luxury brands are manufactured in deplorable conditions. According to an enquiry by the Milan public prosecutor's office and an investigation by Business of Fashion, workers were producing and packaging these bags in unworthy environments. A Milan court has opened an investigation into several luxury brands, accused of turning a blind eye to the illegal practices of their subcontractors. In these workshops, Chinese workers assembled bags costing 53 euros, which were then sold for 2,600 euros each. The workers, some of whom were paid under the table, lived in adjacent premises and worked on machines whose safety devices had been deactivated. One of them claimed to be paid 6 euros an hour, well below the legal minimum wage for leather workers, set at 8.82 euros in Italy. Unsurprisingly, the brands concerned denied any knowledge of these abuses, citing an anomaly in their supposedly rigorous control processes. But the prosecutors claim that the abuses are systemic, deeply rooted in an economic model that prioritises maximising profits over workers' rights. Although ethical codes do exist, their application is based on privatised inspections, marred by conflicts of interest and risks of corruption. In Italy, suppliers are often warned in advance of inspections, enabling them to conceal any infringements. The myth of ‘Made in Italy’ is largely based on low-cost Chinese labour, which has been present in the country since the 1990s. While European luxury brands pride themselves on an image of durability and exclusivity, this case - which may be just the tip of the iceberg - raises a fundamental question about our conception of luxury. How can we savour the purchase of an expensive piece, knowing that it bears the invisible marks of the suffering of the workers who made it? Follow my journey to create sustainable clothes on Instagram @ici.hereclothing, Facebook @ICI Here Clothing, or visit us online at www.icihereclothing.com.

Economic instability, fluctuating consumer demand and the impacts of conflict and the climate crisis are contributing to an increase in forced labour risks, according to new research from the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC). Findings suggest that luxury brands aren't putting in place enough processes to assess forced labour risks in the supply chain, largely due to a lack of scrutiny over the sector. Read more here: https://lnkd.in/e7KvXk8W

“'Attention to labour exploitation in apparel supply chains has traditionally focused on so-called fast fashion companies, while the luxury segment has largely avoided scrutiny based on the perception that higher price points, Europe-based direct suppliers and quality artisanry meant garments were produced ethically,' says Áine Clarke, head of KnowTheChain. Clarke says there is evidence that luxury brands use the same tactics as fast fashion companies, driving down prices and increasing production volumes, which puts pressure on workers." Luxury brands were among the worst performing in our assessment of #ForcedLabour risks in apparel and footwear supply chains. More from Maliha Shoaib for Vogue Business ⬇️https://lnkd.in/ebZPkg6a

Class discussions have been so surreal; participants discussing issues affecting the Nigerian Fashion Industry; how new government policies such as the New Minimum Wage Act of 2024 will impact fashion businesses . We went further to factor in the new minimum wage into garment costing and pricing and guess what? It was a light bulb moment for the participants….. What issues do you find affecting the fashion industry and is rarely discussed among fashion professionals?

Ever picked up an item of clothing and thought to yourself "wow, this is cheap!"? This article might give you an insight into why some of our clothing is cheaper than it should be. https://lnkd.in/gyfAXhTz

🧵 **Leicester Fashion Industry: What’s Next?** 🧵 I recently spoke with Business & Human Rights about the future of Leicester’s garment industry, discussing the challenges it faces with brands shifting production overseas and what this means for local manufacturers. Read the full interview to explore what lies ahead for this vital sector. Catch the full conversation here: https://lnkd.in/eW__eiCj #LeicesterGarments #SustainableFashion #EthicalProduction #bbcnews #retailer #fashionbrands

When we hear about poor working conditions, we generally don't think about the fashion industry in Italy. "On-site inspections and checks on electricity usage data led prosecutors to allege workers were employed for extended hours, working often into the night and during holidays. Some of the staff slept where they worked, had no regular contracts, with two having illegally immigrated into Italy." And why is the manufacturing happening IN Italy and not elsewhere, where it may be cheaper? "Italy accounts for 50% to 55% of the global luxury goods production, consultancy Bain & Company calculated, with thousands of small manufacturers supplying big brands and allowing them to sport the prized 'Made in Italy' label on their goods." #CSCCSCM #labor #laborlaws #forcedlabor #workerexploitation #fashion #apparel #manufacturing #supplychain #logistics #retail

👝Recent raids in Italy have uncovered serious labour exploitation in workshops producing luxury handbags for brands like Dior and Armani 👷 The investigation by Milan prosecutors revealed that foreign workers, including illegal immigrants, were subjected to harsh conditions while producing high-end goods. Workers were found living and working in poor conditions, often with compromised safety measures and excessively long work hours 💸 Documents revealed stark contrasts in production costs versus retail prices. For instance, Dior paid a mere €53 (₹4,778) per handbag to its suppliers, which it then sells in stores for €2,600 (₹2.34 lakh). 💲 Similarly, Armani bags costing €93 (₹8,385) to produce were sold to the brand at €250 (₹22,540) and then priced at approximately €1,800 (₹1.62 lakh) 😡 Luxury brands were criticised for inadequate oversight of their supply chains, despite claims of control measures. Several independent suppliers involved could face charges for labour exploitation and undocumented employment 🧑⚖️ “Why does it cost so little to manufacture the product?” said Fabio Roia, president of Milan’s court system, which has overseen the probe. “The brands need to ask themselves this question.” 👉 While Dior refused to comment, Armani said it had “control and prevention measures in place to minimise abuses in the supply chain,” and that it was “collaborating with the utmost transparency” with authorities. 🛍️Despite being stamped “Made in Italy,” prosecutors claimed that these bags are made by foreign workers, many of whom are Chinese, under unfair and illegal conditions 🧑🎨 Luxury goods command a heavy price due to the perception that they are made by skilled artisans. In reality, while brands do design and development in-house, they often outsource production Source: Wall Street Journal

With so much focus on the impact of 'fast fashion', scrutiny of supply chain practices in the luxury sector can often get sidelined. We need to ensure we hold all levels of brands accountable for fair and equitable working conditions. -More than one in five companies (20%) scored five out of 100 or less on their efforts to tackle the issue, and one in three companies (35%) scored less than 10 out of 100. Some of the lowest scores in the benchmark were in the luxury sector. Interestingly, sportswear brands Lululemon, Adidas, and Puma were among the top performers. -The Business and Human Rights Resource Centre said this suggests at best, a lack of transparency, and at worst, a failure in robust due diligence that goes beyond the first tier. -"While the largest apparel companies have experienced staggering revenue growth and profit margins since the pandemic, those who work for them continue to face some of the most impoverished conditions. This disparity is most evident in luxury fashion, where record revenue growth and profit margins seem increasingly divorced from workers, and working conditions, in global supply chains." #ethicalsourcing #supplychain #luxuryfashion  

Interesting idea about labels to show a garment's "nutritional" value. What will be the facts of a "healthier" version which others can benchmark with? #Sustainability #Garment #Label #Energy #Chemicals #Carbon #SupplyChain #Employment #Wage #ESG #Greenwashing