My socials have been inundated with videos of the mesmerising Galliano for Maison Margiela Couture show over the past few days. Rightly so, it felt a once in a generation moment that even those with no interest in fashion couldn’t help but appreciate. In stark contrast, Copenhagen Fashion week kicked off earlier this week and it also feels everyone is talking about it. No longer the poor relation to Paris, London, New York and Milan, Copenhagen’s strong moral compass and rigorous focus on ethical sustainability stands out against a global backdrop of political and social unrest and feels more vital than ever.
The event was opened by the CFW CEO Cecilie Thorsmark who purposely reminded the audience:
“Democracy is not to be taken for granted. In this super scary context, to put it straight, let’s all remind ourselves that from our privileged ground in this industry, we must make the most of our voice, and the most of our platforms for something better.”
CFW back this up as well; To show at the event, all brands on its schedule must meet 18 minimum requirements governed by six pillars of ethical business: strategic direction, design, smart material choices, working conditions, consumer engagement and show production. For example, brands have to prove transparency across their supply chain and that at least 50% of their collection made from certified, preferred, upcycled or recycled materials. CFW offsets all carbon emissions from its own activities and has reduced carbon emissions by 50% compared to 2019.
Then there is the talent, which are becoming increasingly well recieved – brands such as Saks Potts Stine Goya A/S and OpéraSPORT are all building international followings and gaining momentum with more global buyers at the shows than ever.
The big news was that Ganni A/S, the mainstay of the event and true heavyweight didn’t show in favour of delivering other smaller international activations. However, they did the most ‘Ganni’ thing possible and instead had an event that showcased seven up-and-coming labels via its in-house innovation platform Fabrics of the Future, using innovations such as Celium from Polybion, a pioneering alternative to synthetic fabrics made from petroleum, and Savian from BioFluff, a plant-based fur.
So, props to Copenhagen and those who travelled to support it. The industry is diversifying and CFW feels an increasing blueprint for positive change.
DHR Global #fashionbusiness #fashionnews
