How did Cartmel, a small town in Cumbria, become home to one of the best restaurants in the world? And how did this brilliance then get taken around the world?
Simon Rogan launched L'Enclume in 2002 and today it has three Michelin stars, the best accolade a restaurant can get. But not only that, Rogan's restaurant business Umbel has grown. It now has nine Michelin stars across six different restaurants around the world (the UK, Hong Kong, Thailand and Malta). A Michelin star is supposed to be a mark of exceptionalism. You are not meant to be able to duplicate it.
So how do you take the skill, passion and dedication that it takes to get a Michelin star and then do it again, and again and again and again? How do you deliver consistent world-class excellence?
I wanted to find out, so I spoke to Rogan and Sam Ward, the managing director of Umbel. At the heart of this extraordinary story is their partnership at the top of the business. Sam Ward grew up in Grange-over-Sands, a neighbouring town to Cartmel, and started as a bar manager at Rogan & Co, one of Rogan's restaurants. Before Rogan spotted a special talent and he rose up the ranks of the business...
“There is a culture that runs through certain teams that when you step into that world it affects you in a deep and longstanding way," Ward says. "When you work for and around great people, everybody benefits, right? Whenever anybody joined it was impossible not to see them grow at a rapid level.”
Rogan says of Ward: “He is so energetic – always ready with a solution or new idea. A lot of it comes down to trust. We’ve worked together for a long time, so whilst all the major decisions still require input from both of us – and other members of the senior team – there are a lot of everyday things that can be handled at pace. We can often be in different places, in different time zones, so it’s important to be able to make those calls knowing you’ve got the backing of one another."
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