Samsonite’s Post

I am happy to share that this February I graduated in Fashion Design at Naba Milano. My thesis work called “Dispersio” consists of a story in the form of a logbook in which the protagonist awakens in a world destroyed by an apocalypse and begins an incessant wandering in search of traces of a now lost humanity. In this incessant wandering the protagonist collects a series of objects that will become part of her clothing and of the six developed collection outfits. The topics covered, in addition to the theme of destruction, are the post-human, the upcycling of garments from the military world and the theme of sacral.

JACQUEMUS and the Possibility of an island 🏝 🤔 JACQUEMUS is perhaps a benchmark among fashion brands in showcasing how a designer has been able to build a real business without the backing of any major group. What makes JACQUEMUS interesting is likely how he has been in the right place at the right time and, with excellent social media management, has been able to amplify his message. There's an interesting aspect of his strategy to analyze—there's a very commercial aspect to his collections, something highly desirable. Sometimes in the fashion world, there's this dichotomy between art and commercial viability. The recipe is simple: a clear brand idea, coherence, and proper execution. The challenge lies in keeping the simplest things clear and not going overboard with the measures, as in desserts, a little too much or too little can end up ruining the result. #luxury #luxurybusiness #fashion #fashiondesign #recordar #jacquemus

Another read-worthy article on Fashion Talk! Tune in! #FashionTalk #FT #FashionTouchesEverything

Explore the captivating world where art in fashion and design converge, revealing historical influences, modern trends, and future predictions. https://lnkd.in/es6gXunt

When "tailored" is the theme, spine-sewing is a must! Tailored creative was the theme of a portfolio booklet highlighting luxury and fashion design experience. A needle-and-thread icon was used throughout. It simply had to be spine-sewn with black thread! #spinesewn #fashion #fashionprinting #highimpactprint #freshcolor

To read! know more on each collection and discover what this young generation have in mind Institut Français de la Mode #fashion #fashionschool #fashiondesign

When Yohji Yamamoto filed for bankruptcy in 2009, WWD listed the reasons as financial crises and rapid expansion into markets outside of Japan. I would like to add a few more: The price: The collection was becoming increasingly expensive, with even staple fabrics like wool gabardine, essential for defining "Yohji Yamamoto," becoming prohibitively costly. The company has not diversified into other categories, such as bags and shoes. While unfortunate, this diversification is essential for the profitability of a fashion brand in the current market. The product: Currently, the brand relies heavily on seasonal prints and collaborations that create short-lived trends and urgency. However, the majority of Yamamoto-sensei's clothes are timeless, transcending seasons and trends. His distinct construction allows for a seamless transition from season to season, resulting in a core clientele that is not in a hurry to purchase. Many customers wait for the collection to go on sale, or simply wait for the next season. While timeless clothes may pose challenges for selling, they are a testament to Yamamoto's mastery and are admired for their difficulty in achieving. And you can see it soon:). An exhibition dedicated to Yohji Yamamoto will open on May 16 at the Milan creative space 10 Corso Como. The exhibition, titled "Yohji Yamamoto: Letter to the Future," curated by Alessio de Navasquez, will feature items from the brand's archival and recent collections, bridging the brand's past and present. The exhibition will run until July 31. This presents a wonderful opportunity to explore archives that are just as relevant today as when they were first created. #wwd #bof #japanesefashion CORSOCOMO

Margiela's Artisanal show made me FEEL something for the first time since Alexander McQueen's 2009 FW show (if you know, you know)... The last decade, fashion and the industry surrounding it really lost it's magic for me. Gone are the days of crafting conceptual worlds, indulging in fantasy, and immersing myself in the fever dream that was design school and creative fellowships. Maybe it was the years spent working in mass market as a 'designer' discovering my job was more 'curation' than original design, as we were just buying vintage and samples from designer brands just to knock them off with 30% 'changed' to avoid legal IP implications.... OR the realization that in America alone, an estimated 11.3 million tons of textile waste – equivalent to 85% of all textiles – end up in landfills on a yearly basis. [earth.org] For a multitude of reasons, the unrestrained creative spirit that once fueled sleepless nights to meticulously craft garments has gradually faded into oblivion. I grew to tolerate fashion more as a necessary function rather than an extension of my personal creativity or point of view. BUT John Galliano truly made me feel something again with this show & remember why fashion became my medium since I was 7 years old. This Margiela show is poised to reshape the landscape of fashion, design, and culture in the upcoming months and years. Its impact will inevitably trickle down to the mass market. But don't just take my word for it... AnOther Magazine said the same thing in this beautiful article by Alexander Fury. "And how about going back to when fashion itself was a marvel, when you gasped and dreamed and waited with baited breath to see what fantasies fashion designers could conjure up, to make us all dream?" "This show was indeed a celebration. A celebration of humanity, of individuality, of fashion as pure creative expression and of extraordinary craft. They don’t call it ‘Artisanal’ for nothing – here, technique was pushed to a new zenith. Summarising the different approaches and inventions and experimentations in this collection would take forever, but suffice to say they managed to meld old-school and high-tech, in an extraordinary expansion of what couture can mean." 🔗 https://lnkd.in/gHygRTsB #fashion #fashiondesign #couture

Today, London Fashion week celebrates its 40th anniversary. What does 𝐅𝐚𝐬𝐡𝐢𝐨𝐧 and 𝐋𝐚𝐰 have in common? Maybe more than one can imagine. Industrial designs need to be protected to reduce the risk of imitations, to develop business partnerships and to enhance competitiveness of all types of businesses in the fashion industry. Registration of a design helps the owner to prevent all others from exploiting its new or original ornamental or aesthetic aspects. Despite this, among the most cited explanation for not registering fashion designs is that the short product life cycle – often no more than one six-to-twelve month, season – does not justify the considerable time and financial cost involved. To foster the protection of industrial design, the European Union offers an unregistered form of protection for industrial designs for a relatively short period of time. This constitutes an important help for companies with limited budgets, and for all those that wish to test market new designs before deciding which to register. But there is more! For Fashion items with a long life span it is crucial to be protected against any kind of possible imitation and to prevent others from using the design. For this reason, companies can file an application for a registered industrial design to the 𝐄𝐮𝐫𝐨𝐩𝐞𝐚𝐧 𝐔𝐧𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐈𝐧𝐭𝐞𝐥𝐥𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐮𝐚𝐥 𝐏𝐫𝐨𝐩𝐞𝐫𝐭𝐲 𝐎𝐟𝐟𝐢𝐜𝐞 (𝐄𝐔𝐈𝐏𝐎). It is also possible to request at the time of filing that the publication of the application be deferred for up to 30 months. In this way, the EU also protects those who may want to keep their design secret until it comes to market. #slslex #IP #FashionLaw #intellectualpropertyrights

𝐄𝐌𝐎𝐓𝐈𝐎𝐍𝐒 𝐀𝐑𝐄 𝐓𝐀𝐊𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐌𝐄 𝐎𝐕𝐄𝐑 It’s been a few weeks since Paris fashion week and I can’t help the feeling of still being in awe of the latest Maison Martin Margiela 2024 Artisanal Collection show. (I’m holding on to Martin as a reminiscence to the good old days when he still made masterpieces at Maison Margiela!) It’s always exciting to see what will happen to a brand when a creative director leaves the company and is replaced by a successor. Sometimes it turns out good and sometimes it turns out bad. But for Margiela it turned out just incredible. The way John Galliano is able to translate the Margiela house codes into something that is his own but also staying true to the brand itself is mind-blowing. - The smart references he made to Victorian dolls, a wink to the earlier work of Margiela like the Barbie Collection for example. Can we get a standing ovation for the make-up done by Dame Pat McGrath? But also the red soles, a collaboration with Christian Louboutin, a direct reference to the first Margiela show, where models walked the runway after they walked in red paint and left these red stains on the runway. - The manipulation of materials to create cardboard looking fabrics (that right there is true craftsmanship) that fit perfectly in this idea of using everyday materials and making them fashion. - The scene makes references to the work of Brassaï, an Hungarian photographer capturing the ‘uncommon and weird people’ of Paris during the 1920’s. You can almost read it as a criticism of the political environment we are in. (I don’t want to start a political debate so I will just leave this here). - And last but not least, the models that had these estranging walks and poses which is quintessential Margiela. Not showing pretty models but creating these unique creatures in addition to the distance, story and narrative within the show. 𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐭𝐚𝐥𝐞𝐧𝐭, excuse me 𝐀𝐑𝐓, is just something AI could never replace. Is it weird I have goosebumps writing this? Let’s keep that in mind ladies, gentlemen and everything in between! A show that will go down in the history books! So yes, Margiela, you got me. I’m an even bigger fan now. 𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐬𝐡𝐨𝐰 𝐢𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐡𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐥𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭 𝐨𝐟 𝐞𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐲𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐚 𝐛𝐫𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐬𝐡𝐨𝐮𝐥𝐝 𝐛𝐞 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐛𝐢𝐧𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐫𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭 𝐧𝐨𝐰. We are talking artistry, storytelling, point of view, clear vision but most importantly 𝐞𝐦𝐨𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐚𝐥 𝐜𝐨𝐧𝐧𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐛𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐛𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝𝐚𝐫𝐢𝐞𝐬. Do you want to discover 𝐡𝐨𝐰 𝐭𝐨 𝐜𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐭𝐞 𝐚𝐧 𝐞𝐦𝐨𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐚𝐥 𝐜𝐨𝐧𝐧𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 between your brand and your customers? We are happy to help you dive into his new realm. Just send me a message and let’s talk! -- Picture by brassaï