BEST RESTAURANT IN HAVANA 2016
This would be a bold statement in most world capitals. However, if you have been to any city in Cuba, you know that service is not the best, and sometimes it’s downright horrible. Obviously, this statement is based on my opinion, although I have asked others who spend time in the Cuban capital, and most agree that this restaurant is not only the best in the Cuban capital, it is probably the best on the island. I have been to most restaurants in Havana, and to many others around the island, but this is the only one that is consistent, it always has great food, great service, cold beverages, and is clean and presentable. Before I reveal this Havana eatery, I feel a short explanation is necessary for those not familiar with the history of our island neighbor.
What we take for granted in the United States, and expect when we travel overseas, is oftentimes absent in Cuba. The country has been ruled by a self-proclaimed revolutionary government for well over fifty years, and most revolutions are tumultuous events, and Cuba’s on-going fifty plus year one is no exception. When you eat out in Cuba, or are involved in just about any activity that requires customer service, you are usually in for a revolutionary experience. Customer service, and regard for the needs of patrons was unheard of on the island for many years, and this has had a permanent effect on the island’s inhabitant’s understanding of how to treat consumers. While in the rest of the world the customer is usually always right, in Cuba it is more often than not the other way around. Employees at state run enterprises, which up until a few years ago included most commercial enterprises on the island, are surly, rude, and generally lack any understanding of the term customer service. Retail and service workers are usually not interested in taking care of their customers, but rather dedicate their time to one of the many scams that they have evolved to steal from their employer, the Cuban government. As most service employee's average salary is approximately $20 per month (Yes, that’s right, $20 American dollars for 30 to 40 hours of work) they have devised ingenious ways to skim a little everywhere, and thus supplement their income so they can afford the items they must buy at other revolutionary stores. Restaurants are no exception, and it is not uncommon to walk into an empty restaurant and be ignored by the staff.
Starbien is the restaurant we are granting with the magnificent title of “Best in Havana,” and it is in the Havana neighborhood of Vedado. It’s five blocks from the well-known intersection of G and 23, and is very close to the Plaza of the Revolution. I have eaten there on over twenty occasions, and our guides have taken clients there countless times. The food and service are always the same, excellent! Starbien serves liquids at their proper temperature, the beer is cold, the coffee is hot, just like they’re supposed to be!
My only complaint after many visits was with the white rice, it was under cooked, which is a tragedy in Cuba, where most dishes include rice. The white rice has gotten much better in the past several months, but everything else was and continues to be world class. Traditional Cuban dishes like “ropa vieja, chuletas y masitas de puerco, frijoles negros” are fresh, and always taste homemade. More exotic dishes like “ceviche,” sashimi style marlin, spinach and cheese raviolis, and lamb in curry sauce offer guests a Cuban interpretation of international flavors. The desserts and coffees are also excellent, and that staple of the Cuban dessert menu, flan, is one of the best in Havana.
Whoever is educating the staff at Starbien is doing a wonderful job, the staff is welcoming and friendly, from the maître d' to the bus boys, everyone is professional, well dressed, and looking out for customer’s needs. Starbien has both indoor and outdoor seating, a private room with five tables is available downstairs, and there is an open-air balcony upstairs. The owners are usually around, one of them is also the chef, and you are likely to meet them as they make their rounds greeting their guests. We have been there with most of our clients, with groups ranging in size from two to over thirty, and the experience is always great. Hopefully more restaurants throughout the island will begin to emulate Starbien, which will help to make Cuba a much more desirable destination for travelers.
I am not the only one who thinks Starbien is first rate, and you are likely to see tour buses parked outside during the lunch hour. Reservations are highly recommended, and you will not be disappointed.
By Frank Gonzalez