How the Athleisure Trend is Shaping the Future of Luxury Fashion
Athleisure, a concept introduced in 1979, has recently gained increased relevance among consumers. With people valuing a healthier and more active lifestyle, luxury brands find their way to elevate the game of this trend.
Evolving from sportswear to athleisure
Athleisure, combining “athletic” and “leisure”, was first understood in 1979 in an issue of Nation’s Business as garments and shoes designed to appear athletic. This early definition was then shaped into the one we can observe nowadays in the dictionary – “casual, comfortable clothing designed to be suitable both for exercise and everyday wear”.
In the early 20th century, sportswear was the point of linkage between athlete players, and spectators. Led by women, sportswear’s purpose was to serve a more active lifestyle, for instance playing tennis, baseball, and riding bicycles. One can highlight the creation of the first tennis skirt, designed by the Parisian Jean Patou, and first worn by the tennis athlete Suzanne Lenglen at Wimbledon in 1925.
From this essence, sportswear designs evolved into two strands: The Parisian luxury approach, emphasizing the designs and quality, with notable creators such as Gabrielle Coco Chanel and Hermès; and the American wave, which aimed to promote the practicability, moved by Cashin, a pioneer of this approach, and Claire McCardell in the 1940s.
"I wanted to give a woman comfortable clothes that would flow with her body. A woman is closest to being naked when she is well-dressed.” – Coco Chanel
Throughout the century, sportswear developed from its original concept to become a versatile style that individuals could wear for both daily life and athletic activities – multi-purpose fashion. This realization led to the introduction of the term “athleisure” in 1979.
Covid-19 leading to new opportunities in the athleisure market
Athleisure started to gain more momentum with the COVID-19 event.
In line with an Ifo Institute analysis, European spending has experienced a dip in performance in casualwear and sportswear of 5% and 17%, respectively in 2020, compared to the pre-crisis period. This decline was less pronounced than the fashion and business wear, which fell between 26% and 37%.
Along with that, one can say a fraction of people started to develop a more active lifestyle, as a result of higher awareness about the importance of being healthy. The outdoor activities including camping and hiking, began to have a higher adoption. According to Business of Fashion, 82% of respondents in the US reported engaging in outdoor activities in 2023, up from 60% in 2020. In the UK, nearly half of the people surveyed said they spent more time outdoors than pre-pandemic times. In China, the number of searches for “outdoor” on the country’s marketplace Tmall increased by more than 600% between 2021 and 2023.
Luxury brands on athleisure
This situation encourages brands beyond the outdoor and overall sportswear sectors to adhere. Given this, the athleisure trend is expected to grow not only for the middle-market, encompassing sportswear brands, and fast-fashion, but also luxury brands.
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The global athleisure market anticipates expanding at a CAGR of 9.3% till 2030, and luxury brands are entering the wave as well. Starting in 2021, The North Face and Gucci collaboration paved the way for future big collaborations between luxury and athleisure. Featuring cutting-edge technology and unique designs, the collection included ready-to-wear, luggage, shoes, and accessories.
On and LOEWE collaboration (2022) focus was combining simplicity and optimization, adapted for all weather conditions. The footwear collections were further explored, comprising the Vibram and Balenciaga collaboration (2020), creating a five-toad high-heeled shoe style made from recycled knit, and the Hoka and Moncler collaboration (2021).
Furthermore, luxury brands such as Dior and Burberry are switching from temporary athleisure collections to permanent ones.
Embracing opportunities and tackling challenges
As for the future, luxury brands undertaking the athleisure trend should also account for other parallel trends such as “quiet luxury”. This term, which recently became popular, represents a discrete aesthetic that embraces minimal logos. Furthermore, durable and performance-driven garments and footwear continue to be highly valued amongst consumers.
Nevertheless, one should address the inherent challenges. In seeking to be differentiated and relevant following trends including athleisure, brands can dilute their essence.
Conclusion
On a final note, with the pandemic, people started embracing a healthier lifestyle, giving rise to the athleisure trend. Because there is a thin line between sportswear and athleisure, brands outside the sports expertise can produce this activewear knowing that consumers will adopt it. Nevertheless, these players, mainly luxury brands, should seek ways to elevate the game of athleisure, while staying true to their core.
In light of this, another question arises: How will sportswear brands such as Nike, and Adidas cope with the growing competition?
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