Uncovering the fabric of textile plastic pollution

In this week's Suits and Tides, we unravel the truth of how fashion, specifically fast fashion, contributes to plastic pollution. From all your head-to-toe attires, who would've thought they could do (more) harm to the ocean and the environment? Let's dive deeper together as we talk more on this issue. 

Plastic, without a doubt, is an omnipresent material used in our society. It is practically everywhere–even at the deepest ocean depth–and has infiltrated every aspect of human lives. Its properties of being lightweight, low-cost, durable, and most importantly, versatile have enabled plastic to be the superhero of material. It has driven down economic costs, making various goods and services accessible even to those with lower incomes. However, beneath its practicality lies a looming threat to our planet–a danger woven into the fabric of our lives.

Fashion is one such industry that inevitably utilises the convenience that plastic offers. Clothing, one of human basic needs, is sought by everyone. As society advances, it is no longer just functional but also a means of self-expression and a medium of artistic presentation–giving rise to a trend called fashion. What used to be a necessity has evolved into a constantly changing form of art for people to convey their personalities–a phenomenon referred to as ‘fast fashion’. As a consequence of this surge in the demand for fashion products, the industry relies on plastic materials due to their cost-effectiveness to meet these demands, contributing to increased plastic production.

In recent years, fashion brands have produced double the amount of clothing compared to the year 2000. Global fibre consumption is estimated to be 109 million tonnes in 2020, with synthetic polyester accounting for 52% of this total and is projected to reach 146 million tonnes by 2030. 

While the high demand for clothing is expected, the issue lies in the amount of textile waste generated–that is an approximated 92 million tonnes per year, nearly matching the amount of new clothes produced. 

This figure reflects the concerning behaviour of consumerism and throw-away culture in our society, disposing of their clothes after minimal use. On average, a clothing item is only worn seven to ten times before being discarded, marking a 36% decrease over the past 15 years.

This disposal behaviour is only one side of the problem, as the current waste management systems are not capable of handling the excessive volume of textile waste being generated. 

Most of the textiles produced, accounting for 73%, end up in landfills or being incinerated. Only 12% are recycled into different or lesser-quality products, while less than 1% are recycled into products of the same quality. 

Unfortunately, due to the inadequacy of waste management facilities and lack of public awareness, some of this may find its way into the ocean. The data from our collection activities reveal that textiles constitute the largest composition, amounting to 17.72% of the total plastic waste recovered from the coastal areas around Bintan and Batam, where our project is located.

As we delve deeper into the issue, there is more to the problem than meets the eye. Similar to other plastic products, plastic-based clothing gradually breaks down into microplastics over its lifespan. When these clothes are washed, they release microfibers that enter the water system. Since there is currently no widely accessible technology to filter out these microplastics from the wastewater, they are bound to enter the ocean and cause severe consequences for marine life and humans. Approximately half a million tonnes of microfibers are shed during washing annually, contributing to around 35% of oceanic microplastics. Therefore, while limiting the purchase of new plastic-based clothes and keeping them for an extended duration can significantly reduce the amount of waste generated and alleviate the demand for virgin material, sadly, it does not prevent the existing products from polluting the ocean with microplastics.

Legislators around the world are seeking ways to put a break on fast fashion. In March 2022, the European Union (EU) introduced a new Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) aimed to promote greater environmental sustainability and improve product circularity. The goal is to encourage products that are longer-lasting, reusable, and easily repaired and recycled. This regulation includes identifying materials or substances that may prevent products from being recycled and establishing a minimum amount of recycled content in a product. However, this regulation can only effectively address plastic pollution from the fashion industry if consumers change their consumption habits. A seemingly obvious yet impactful step individuals can take is to be mindful of their clothing consumption–ask yourself why you are buying it and how you plan to use it. Consider how many times or how long you will wear the products. While reducing the amount of new products purchased can decrease the waste generated and its associated negative impact, self-expression and creativity are parts of what makes us human. As such, there are times when buying new clothes may feel like a necessity. In such cases, consider opting for sustainable brands or products made from organic materials, such as cotton or linen.

Some sustainable fashion brands can be financially out of reach for certain consumers due to higher costs. In such situations, you can explore alternatives like secondhand clothing or thrift shopping. Preloved clothing is not necessarily of lesser quality; with some care and creativity, you can give it new life. Likewise, if you have clothing items that you no longer need or use, consider selling or donating them, as other people might find value in them. Additionally, swapping clothes with your siblings or friends can be a fun way to bond between the both of you. For special occasions such as weddings, you can opt for renting dresses. This way, you can still feel stunning while avoiding generating additional textile waste after the event. Alternatively, if your family has a dress that has been passed down through generations, it can express a rich family history that makes it priceless. Embracing sustainable fashion does not have to come at a high cost; it can be as simple as making mindful choices and exploring alternatives. By doing so, you can contribute to a more eco-friendly future without compromising your style and way of self-expression.

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