Why we choose wine

There’s not a wine show or wine publication that haven’t been focusing on the no and low wine category over the past few years. We’ve done extensive research and trials ourselves and like some other wineries, have launched our own de-alcoholised brand for what has become an international market demand. With attempts from the global industry to standardise the category and a debate about whether this de-alcoholised product can still be classified as wine, the conversation is much wider than just having an option for the designated driver. But who choose de-alcoholised wine and why?

If my question would only be about a no-alcohol product, the answer would of course be much easier. It might simply be anyone who prefers not to consume alcohol for reasons such as having to drive, having an early morning or important day coming up, not feeling well or even a more serious medical or, of course, personal reason. With a host of non-alcoholic drinks available today, non-drinkers don’t have to settle for a cooldrink in a tumbler. They too, can enjoy a sophisticated, good-looking drink. Other than iced teas, spritzers and coolers, there are excellent no alcohol beers and gins.

If the question is purely about de-alcoholised wine, I guess it’s a little more complex. Other than not wanting to consume alcohol, why do you choose to drink de-alcoholised wine? Let’s look at some possible reasons:

• Perhaps you are just a wine person.
• You usually drink wine and even when you can’t have alcohol, you’d prefer to stick to wine.
• You enjoy your wine with food and believe that even without alcohol, wine would be the more suitable partner to your meal.
• Wine has an association of sophistication that you like. Perhaps, you might even not want people to know that you aren’t drinking and they are used to seeing you with a glass of wine…
• You don’t enjoy the other options – let’s go through the process of elimination: Neither sugary soft drinks nor their artificially sweetened replacements are acceptable. You don’t like the taste of iced tea. You don’t enjoy beer or spirits. Water is just boring. You don’t like fizzy drinks.

If you tick any of these boxes, you are in luck as there are quite a variety of de-alcoholised wine brands available and whether you drink white, red, rosé or sparkling, you should easily be able to find the de-alc version of your favourite. More good news is that other than keeping you law-abiding behind the wheel (you would have to drink on average 6.8 litres or 9 bottles of de-alc wine to reach the legal alcohol limit), de-alc wine also has a lot less calories! A glass of Leopard’s Leap Natura De-alc , for instance, has but a tenth of the calories that you’d find in a regular glass of wine.

Suddenly we might ask a different question. Why would anyone not choose de-alcoholised wine if it keeps you safer and thinner (albeit a little less fun perhaps…) than regular wine? According to all the conversations, opinions, research and tastings, the most prominent reason seems to be that beer and spirits have an easier time getting their no-alcohol versions to taste like the familiar, alcoholic product. This seems to be a bigger challenge for wine. It might be a lovely drink, but if you are expecting wine, the criticism has been that you might be a little disappointed. Why would that be?

Let’s start by explaining the category. De-alcoholised means that alcohol has been extracted from a traditional alcoholic beverage to leave no more than 0.5% abv. This means that de-alc wine is made as a regular wine with all the flavour you expect, but then the alcohol is extracted and suddenly your favourite glass of Chenin Blanc tastes quite a bit different. (See how it’s done ) Alcohol might often be seen as the culprit, but it does contribute a lot to taste as it affects wine organoleptically and amplifies acidity, bitterness and sweetness. It also contributes to what wine drinkers call mouthfeel – the “warmth” or texture of the wine. These flavours and textures of the wine are altered significantly through the de-alcoholisation process or reverse osmosis. While regulation for the category is a work in process, at the moment winemakers are allowed certain additions such as grape concentrate powders, flavourants or glycerol to make up for the loss of taste and texture. What additions are allowed differ from country to country, but there aren’t any surprises as the non-alcoholic product is generally categorised under food and not alcoholic beverages, which means that their labels offer full nutritional information and ingredient lists, calories, carb counts, and additives. If you read the label, you will know what’s in your drink. For the same reason, de-alc “wines” can also be sold outside of the wine section, without a liquor licence and during times of prohibition…

While the de-alc versions might therefore be available, safer and more bikini-friendly, I don’t foresee that wine lovers will just replace their favourite glass of Pinot Noir with a de-alc red, without very good reason. Enjoying a regular wine in moderation, with a glass or two of water on the side and with its much-loved food companions, should keep you responsible enough (although not for driving of course) while delivering all the taste you expect, with the benefit of a little relaxation and perhaps even a touch more confidence.

Other than the experience from your glass, wine has a rich tradition, lifestyle and cultural associations and perhaps, even when you choose not to consume alcohol, it’s hard to resist the charm and story of wine. I guess this is what I’ve neglected in my initial thoughts about why, even when we have to go alcohol free, wine stays such an enchanting choice.