Itinerary 2D/3N
Panna—45km/1hr 15 min—Raneh Falls—Panna—76km/2hrs—Satna—62km/2hrs—Purwa Falls—8km/15minutes—Chachai Falls—70km/2hrs—Satna
The Vindhya Hills, more specifically, the Panna range of hills that span across Bundelkhand and Baghelkhand are ancient mountains that figure extensively in India’s old scriptural and historical texts. Traditionally, the Vindhyas are regarded as the geographical boundary between North and South India. The geography of this land is varied with a network of streams, rivers, rock ranges, lush forest, plains as well as hills. Driving through this entire region is a wonderful experience, but there are a few spots that are enchantingly beautiful.
Day 1
Start your trip in Panna from where the Raneh Falls make for a convenient day trip. A little over an hour will take you to the Ken Ghariyal Sanctuary, which is where the falls are located. The Ken River, a tributary of the Yamuna, is one of the major rivers of the region..
The falls can be seen from the very entrance to the Sanctuary on the right. The water gushes through deep ruts in the rock, bounding and cascading before suddenly dropping in twin streams. Take a path through the shrub to a look-out point and from here you can really see the extent of this stunning gorge. The Raneh Falls are not one particular waterfall, rather the whole range that forms when the river is in full flow.
As Ken River meanders northwards from its origin in the Barner range, it crosses the Bijawar-Panna hills before cutting through this rocky terrain in a gorge that is 150–180m deep and an astonishing 60km long. Several streams join Ken at this point, and the effect is spectacular. Swift, white torrents gush and gurgle over the edge, sometimes falling considerable heights, sometimes only to the next level, bounding down the surface. In some spots, the water stays collected, forming quiet green pools that make you long to fling aside your footwear and jump headlong in. Till about a few years back, people used to actually cross the stream across the boulders but after a tragic accident, the waterfall is off-limits to bathers and picnickers.
Nevertheless, the look-out points are well placed. The igneous rocks that form the walls of the canyon are rich in granite and dolomite and tend to glint pink, red and grey in the midday sun. Naturally, the falls are stunning and at their best in the rainy season, although a few run through the year.
Take a long walk through the rest of the sanctuary before heading back to Panna.
Day 2
From Panna, make your way via Satna to Purwa Falls in Rewa district.
The Tamas River, also known as Tamasa or Tons, flows through the districts of Satna and Rewa before joining the Ganga at Sirsa. To the edge of the Purwa plateau lies our destination, where the Tamas and its tributaries form a number of utterly spectacular waterfalls. You hear gushing sounds of water before you actually set your eyes on it. A small path takes you across some rocky terrain, and then the air turns moist and a little sweet. When you come to the railing, you see … a stunning 230ft cascade with rainbows formed from the wild spray. The Purwa Falls are formed by a knick point – a part of a river where there is a sharp change in channel slope or gradient – causing the water to fall sharply.
The river Tamas features in the Indian epics quite prominently. It is said that Sage Valmiki had his ashram on its banks. When Sita was exiled by Rama, she left Ayodhya to seek refuge here. She is said to have given birth to her twin sons Luv and Kush here.
A little distance from here are the Chachai Falls, which, at 430ft, occupies the 23rd spot in the list of highest waterfalls in the country. This cataract is located on the river Beehar, a tributary of Tamsa. At the edge of the Chitrakoot Hills, a part of the Kaimur Range, this is a sheer waterfall, a long stream of silver away in the distance, surrounded by an expanse of rock-wall, its valley punctuated with trees, scrub and the glint of water. In the monsoons, the waterfall thunders away but, unfortunately, it is a seasonal glory.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Getting there
Raneh Falls is 25km/45minutes from Khajuraho and 45km/1hour 15minutes from Panna town. It is part of the Ken Ghariyal Sanctuary.
Timings: Sunrise to Sunset
Entry Fees: On foot/bicycle (per person) INR50; Two-wheelers INR100 per vehicle plus INR50 per person; Light Motor Vehicles INR600; taking a forest department guide is mandatory for light vehicles. Guide charges are INR100.
Note: There is a small Forest Department store with sun-hats, badges and other souvenirs. A small canteen adjacent to it also serves instant noodles, parathas and tea.
Purwa Falls are 62km/2hours from Satna and Chachai Falls are 8km/15minutes from Purwa.
Entry Fees: Free
Note: These waterfalls are somewhat off the tourist track and don’t have much to offer apart from the odd tea shop. Carry a packed lunch or snacks.
