Halfway between Orchha and Khajuraho is the former princely state of Alipura. The town is small, and all the village roads lead you to a building that at once shows its age. This is Alipura Palace, a haveli built almost 150 years ago (some sections are as old as 300 years!). The haveli was converted into a heritage hotel in 2008 by its owner, Rao Bahadur Raja Manvendra Singh Judeo, the Raja Saheb of Alipura, who still lives here.
First off, this is a beautiful place. The best part is that the palace has been carefully converted, retaining as much as possible the original feel of the building. The pillared entrance porch, the flight of stairs up to the main courtyard, tastefully placed objet d’art and the long courtyard around which the rooms are located … all make for a picture-perfect setting. The entry to the haveli does not inspire awe, rather it intrigues and charms you. On the ground floor are a few rooms and the restaurant. The meals here are excellent, both in terms of presentation and cuisine. The food comes in elegant tableware, fusing the Indian and continental ways of serving food. There are some Bundelkhandi specialities on the menu too. Don’t miss the Bharwa Baingan, or stuffed eggplant, prepared the local way. The restaurant and the billiards room upstairs display an array of memorabilia about the royal family, who hail from the Parihar clan of Agnikula Rajputs.
There are 14 rooms in this palace-hotel. While of the rooms were renovated from the existing structure, a brand new wing was added at the back. The new rooms are as comfortable but the old ones – no two are alike – are absolutely atmospheric with little nooks, windows, balconies and surprise doors leading to the terrace. One room in particular has a wonderful balcony that juts out, overlooking the village greens and a few old monuments. The furniture and furnishings are tasteful.
A lovely large terrace makes morning coffee and evening tea a treat to look forward to. The equally old Dhanushdhari Temple is right across the palace and adds even more piquancy to this wonderful heritage experience.
Getting there: Alipura is best accessed by road. It is 100km/3hrs from Khajuraho and 92km/2hours
30 minutes from Orchha along NH 39.
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Alipura Palace
Opposite Dhanushdhari Temple, Alipura, Chhattarpur District
Tariff: Double room starts at INR2,250 including breakfast and taxes
Ph: 8085238223 (Mr Maan Singh, Manager); Email: [email protected]
What to See & Do
Activities include cycling tours to nearby villages and jeep excursions. Alipura is an excellent pit stop
if you want to explore Dhubela (26km/45min away), which has quite a few monuments of interest.