Farm Fresh Dining at Mandu

Cryptoscopophilia – Urban dictionary defines it as ‘the desire to secretly look through windows of homes that one passes by’. I’d like to believe it is a feeling that most of us can relate to – a harmless curiosity stoked especially on travels. For although the sun-kissed fields and forests of Madhya Pradesh were a sight, I wondered what the insides of the cosy mud houses among them looked like. Thanks to the lovely couple Dhiraj and Marie who hosted us for a farm-to-table meal in Mandu, we were able to not only visit one, but also enjoy an authentic meal prepared in one of these very warm homes.

Rows and rows of mud and clay cottages line the roads in Mandu. Most of these homes belong to the Bhil community. We were invited to one such home of Santosh Gawar, a member of the indigenous Bhil community, who graciously agreed to host us for a meal.

Walking towards the house, we noticed that the part that faces the road is a plain facade. There is a narrow lane that leads to the back and to a whole different vista that stays hidden behind the humble front. Bathed in the rays of the setting sun are vast stretches of green sloping fields dotted with the yellow and orange of marigold beds. A pond lay still, reflecting the splendour of the tangerine skies. A beautiful sit-out arrangement with charpais has been made for an alfresco meal. Just as we were soaking the views, Dhiraj tells us that it is common for leopards to use the pond as a watering hole. While the sight is sure to cause more than a flutter elsewhere, the people of Mandu and certainly this family are nonchalant about it. The wild cat does not usually come up to the road, unless it catches the sight of cattle or a goat. Humans are almost never bothered, they tell us.

Relieved with that little nugget, we take a short walk down the slope. Channe that we’re having later that night is plucked from right here. We had helped Marie pluck ripe tomatoes to serve as a side of fresh salad earlier that evening, but the ‘channa’ is only plucked when the sun is right overhead, she tells us. Unlike grass which is plucked when the sun is going down. A true Indophile from France, Marie knows the place and much of the practices like a local.
All the ingredients on the table are locally-sourced and grown without the use of chemicals.

Back after a little jaunt, we can smell the aroma of the food wafting through the windows. So we went in to take a closer look. A traditional Bhil home is made from mud and clay. The material ensures that the homes stay warm in winters and cold during the summers. A typical house, like the one we visited, has a built-in room for the domestic/farm pets inside the house. “It is common for everyone in the house to sleep under one roof,” Dhiraj tells us. Both Dhiraj and Marie were formerly involved actively in the tourism industry and have since wanted to create an immersive and authentic experience that veers far away from ‘commercial tourism’. They also wanted the process to incentivise the local communities who are inherently hospitable.

After a swig of locally-brewed Mahua, we’re ready for the spread lovingly prepared by the family. A batch of Makke ki roti is being freshly roasted on a brick stove over firewood. Served in earthen pots, the table is laid out with channe ki sabji (gram leaves), sajna sabji (moringa leaves), yellow dal, fish curry and a chicken dish. And of course, a powerful side of lehsun-mirchi ka achaar that is freshly ground on a sil batta. After days of eating out, this is just the home-cooked soul food that we were craving – simple, fresh, healthy and flavourful. And to give it a sweet closure, a melt-in-the-mouth gajar ka halwa. Sitting outside, wrapped up in our shawls on a chilly winter night, the food is like a warm caress.
The farm-to-table meal in Mandu is truly an immersive experience. Wholesome and authentic, it not only lets you savour the food, but also the way of life – if only for a day. The impression, of course, will last a lifetime.

How to get there: The airport closest to Mandu is in Indore, 124 km away. The closest railway station is Ratlam, 99 km away.
Best time to visit: Anytime of the year is a good time. However, there is much more to experience during the Mandu Festival in December or January.
Cost: The farm-to-table experience costs anywhere between `2,000-`3,000. You are welcome to participate in the food preparation and indulge in daily activities with the family as part of the experience.
Contact: +91-7000802851 (Dhiraj Chaudhary), +91-882741595 (Marie Wintrebert Chaudhary)

Madhya Pradesh’s charm lies in its quaint countryside. You can experience this in more ways than one.

An initiative by Motel Tamia and Tribescape, this tour brings you close to the daily life of a tribe and its culinary culture. You can savour farm-fresh food at a hilltop, in the company of a rising or setting sun.
How to get there: The closest airport to Motel Tamia is Nagpur. One can also take a train to Chhindwara, and drive another 80 km to Patalkot
Address: Bijori, Nagpur-Pachmarhi Highway, Tamia, Chhindwara, Madhya Pradesh
Cost: `12,000-`14,000 for 2 nights
Contact: 07149-272300, +91-6266940601; Website: moteltamia.com

The seeds of Jeevantika were sown by a young couple, who now offer visitors a chance to grow and savour their own food at the farm, but only if they sign up as volunteers.
How to get there: The closest airport is Indore, and railway station, Ujjain.
Address: Jeevantika, Barnagar, near Ujjain.
Accommodation: At the Jeevantika farm, if you sign up as a volunteer.
Website: jeevantika.co.in

Just about 50km from the capital city, Maati Se is a farmstay that celebrates local produce.
How to get there: The closest airport is Bhopal, and the railway stations at Bhopal and Sehore are both easily accessible.
Address: Maati Se Farm, Kotakarar Village, Anwali Kheda Panchayat, Sehore District.
Accommodation: Maati Se Farm
Website: maatise.in