Until the mid 90s, the Forestry Commission was known for little more than cutting down trees. But when a visionary ranger and mountain-bike enthusiast named Dafydd Davis laid down his chainsaw and picked up a shovel, it changed the face of forestry in the UK.
Davis's idea was to build waymarked mountain bike trails, through the vast tracts of forest on his patch, in the hope of luring city dwellers for weekend riding breaks. He crafted superb all-weather trails that eliminated the need for maps and grumpy walkers, and combined them with toilets, showers and wholesome food on-site. Davis had hit upon a winning formula. Riders began flocking to the venue and local businesses, such as pubs and B&Bs, started to flourish. Coed y Brenin marked a turning point for the sport and became a template that was replicated across Wales, Scotland and parts of England.
So it's fitting that my first ever experience of trail-centre mountain biking was provided by such a significant site. It was during the deepest, darkest depths of winter, some time in the late 90s, and the weather was suitably foul. But after a long day carving slalom turns through the trees amid a beautiful, ever-changing, environment, it was the quality of Coed y Brenin's single track that shone through the damp clouds and into my psyche. I was hooked.
In the years since, Coed y Brenin has developed into the centrepiece of Welsh mountain biking with a constantly evolving network of trails that include the original Tawr and the newly opened, family-friendly Yr Afon. In 2006, CYB's facilities were given a makeover with the construction of a sustainable visitor centre boasting a wood fuel heating system, a shingle roof and natural insulation. The cafe also offers a 10% discount if you arrive by train (but you'll have earn it – the nearest station is 14 miles away).