Walking London’s unsung waterway: the River Lea rises again
Walking a 26-mile stretch from Hertfordshire, our writer witnesses how a neglected artery of the city has been transformed into a recreational and cultural hub
February 2024
The British seaside is full of charm – even when you’re dodging dog poo and drizzle
Charlie Brinkhurst-Cuff
Is there anything better than a wintry coastline, in all its grey glory, paired with excellent fish and chips, asks Charlie Brinkhurst-Cuff
July 2023
Grace Dent on restaurants
Chater’s, Saffron Walden, Essex: ‘Promises little and completely overdelivers’ – restaurant review
The pub walk
A walk along the Essex coast to a historic pub: the Crooked Billet, Leigh-on-Sea
March 2023
An arty weekend in ...
An arty weekend in … Southend-on-Sea, Essex
The seaside town hosts a street-art festival and the world’s first digital art park, while nearby Leigh is packed with galleries
January 2023
‘We really need this space’: a holistic retreat for black women
Wellness tourism is almost exclusively a white domain. But one lifestyle coach has made it her mission to challenge that status quo. We join her Essex retreat
August 2022
The pub walk
An island walk to a great pub: the White Hart, Essex
A tour of Britain’s most easterly inhabited island – Mersea – reveals centuries of history, and a newly revamped pub
July 2022
One summer's day
Lads, longing and Leigh-on-Sea: ‘It’s as if someone flipped a switch marked “summertime”’
On 2 July we sent six writers and photographers to capture a typical British summer’s day. Joe Dunthorne headed to Leigh-on-Sea
May 2022
Here be serpents … a coastal Essex that time forgot
Our writer explores marshes, boatyards, islands and eerie stretches of the Blackwater and Colne rivers – the setting for new TV drama The Essex Serpent
April 2022
The pub walk
A great walk to a great pub: the Sun Inn, Dedham, Essex
A gentle rural landscape is the backdrop to an arty saunter around the River Stour, crisscrossing the Suffolk-Essex border, and ending in a 500-year-old pub
January 2022
For epic trees and eco rays of hope, take a train to Epping Forest
This ancient former royal hunting ground on the north-east edge of London has a lot to teach about how people and woods can coexist harmoniously
September 2021
Geese, seals and sky: a wildlife stay on a remote Essex island
Horsey Island, which can only be reached around low tide, hosts a solitary cottage that gives visitors the chance to sample its peace and sense of mystery
August 2021
The Beach of Dreams trail left me dazzled by an Essex I never expected
This 500-mile walking adventure has provided revelations – and huge incongruities – in its coastal towns and villages
July 2021
I will walk 500 miles … in search of Darwin’s ship on the Essex coast
I will walk 500 miles … on an art trail along Essex’s lost coast
May 2021
Brave front: thought-provoking art on England’s south-east coast
The new Waterfronts exhibition – part of the England’s Creative Coast project – brings contemporary sculpture to seaside towns to challenge visitors
March 2021
Observer special: Secret Britain
Estuary Essex … exploring the grimy but lovely Thames near Tilbury
The Observer’s architecture critic discovers a fascinating collision of industry, historic churches, waterfront and wildlife
February 2021
Brief letters
Covid variants don’t have nationalities
Brief letters: Tom Moore and the NHS | Coronavirus | The Stour valley | Eine Kleine Beatlemusic | Groundhog day
December 2020
A foraging trip for flavours and peace of mind in Epping Forest
Searching for wild foods in the UK can mean discovering fresh or forgotten tastes. For one furloughed worker it also turned into a life-affirming hobby
July 2020
Far from the madding crowd: UK staycation destinations to try this summer
From Northumberland to Essex, beauty can be found in less touristy areas