‘Tourism is our only option’: the community banking on birding in north India
A new initiative in a Himalayan wildlife sanctuary is attracting birdwatchers and hikers to the remote foothills, and offering vulnerable villages a lifeline
July 2022
Indians embrace campervanning and help to revive country’s tourism
Hire firms and campsites are sprouting up across India, as people look to get away from it all after the pandemic
March 2021
Secular pilgrims: why ancient trails still pack a spiritual punch
Where kings and abbots walked, tourists now follow. Are these increasingly popular trips just another holiday or are we getting more religious?
Virtual travel guides
Mumbai: a virtual tour through books, film, music and food
India’s most cosmopolitan city offers a dramatic blend of Bollywood idols, opera, street stalls and gripping tales of the underworld
I ate three in a row: the Bombay burger, India’s favourite fast food – plus the recipe
Vada pav – spiced potato balls in a soft roll – is the quintessential Mumbai street food. BBC presenter Leyla Kazim devours the city’s best
January 2021
Pongal is comfort food for south India’s harvest season – plus the recipe
Pongal is both a harvest festival, which starts today, and the rice and dal breakfast dish eaten to mark its arrival
December 2020
Jasbinder Bilan: Heading ‘home’ to India freed my creativity
My journey around India in 80 trains
November 2020
Travel through a lens
Travel through a lens – Sonam braves winter on the Tibetan plateau, India
Our new series of travel photos that tell a story starts with this portrait of a young nomadic girl who herds animals on the world’s highest plateau
June 2020
10 of the best books set in India – that will take you there
Tired of narratives that obsess over spices, colours and cows on the road? These books, all by Indian writers, paint realistic pictures of the country’s geographical, cultural and political landscapes
August 2019
Taking a Toto trip in West Bengal: an electric rickshaw adventure ride
Returning to Chandannagar, our writer’s Toto e-rickshaw journey brought back happy memories, and prompted optimism about the eco benefits of this increasingly popular form of transport
July 2019
The Guardian picture essay
The jewellers of Jaipur's Johari Bazaar – a photo essay
Unesco has named the capital of Rajasthan, India, a world heritage site, partly for its jewellery and artisanal traditions, which continue to thrive on one of its main commercial streets
January 2019
A river ride to Rishikesh: India's new adventure capital
Rishikesh shot to fame when the Beatles arrived, in search of enlightenment. Half a century on, the area is attracting a different kind of seeker – those after rapids, zipwires and mountain treks
November 2018
Pushkar camel fair changing from market to heritage attraction
In Rajasthan, India, officials hope tourism will help preserve the dying art of camel decoration as livestock trading at the famous fair declines
October 2018
Shortcuts
Island paradises, Indian caves and Interrail: the best destinations for new solo travellers
With solo travel up by a third since 2011, we are warming to the idea of a trip away without compromise or arguments. Here are some places that guarantee a good welcome
August 2018
Bengal’s Durga puja: a Hindu festival in full flow – in pictures
My Himalayan journey – trekking to Shangri-La
May 2018
An Indian railway adventure: the pilgrim train from Hyderabad to Tamil Nadu
On an epic rail journey especially for pilgrims, our writer is as enthralled by the kindness and friendship of his fellow travellers as he is by the spectacular temples
April 2018
A local's guide
Bengaluru, India: a local’s top 10 tips
The hi-tech, high-altitude, high-energy city also known as Bangalore has smart bars, cool brunch joints, green spaces galore – and a pleasant climate
February 2018
Instagram snapshots
Surf's up in south-east India: an Instagram journey to Mahabalipuram
‘Mahabs’, on the Tamil Nadu coast, is renowned for its ancient rock carvings but photographer Ozzie Hoppe was drawn by its burgeoning surfing culture