Seduced by the cuisine of the Mediterranean port, an expat American food writer guides us around the ‘no fuss’ cafes and restaurants that embody France’s oldest city

Less frenetic than its near neighbour, Marseille, this beautiful coastal resort quietly celebrates its pioneering heritage in shipbuilding, cinematography and … pétanque

The personality of France’s second city shines through its crime fiction, urban photography, rap and TV drama. Grab an apéro and enjoy

The dense streets of the city’s Noailles district are usually thrumming with activity. As cafes and restaurants start reopening, we find locals excited to welcome visitors back

Transformed but not gentrified since its year as Capital of Culture in 2013, France’s second city remains a vibrant cultural, ethnic and gastronomic melting pot

The Euro 2016 host cities all offer a delicious taste of France to go with the football – from glorious food and chic bars to world-class art and architecture

Invented as a way to use up bony fish unfit for market, bouillabaisse has become a Provençal staple. Though that doesn’t stop people tinkering …

The new, direct Eurostar south of France service will only take 6.5 hours to reach Marseille from London, also stopping at Lyon and Avignon. Kim Willsher, with the help of local blogger Elodie Van Zele, checks out the spectacular Mediterranean port’s most happening restaurants, shops, bars and places to stay

Two decades after Zoe Williams visited Marseille with her friend Julia, the pair return to the scene of their crimes. They find the city much changed – and safer – but it still has bags of character