He had a bad back, our holiday to Naples had been cancelled, and we decided to stay in with a Chinese takeaway. While my hands were covered in grease, his were sweaty with nerves

The city’s top pizza makers put their name, heart and, most importantly, their hands into what they make, says guidebook author Domenico Mazzella

Restoration architect Mariano Mazzella knows where to find the best pizzerias, palazzos, bars and views of Vesuvius in Italy’s most vibrant city

The Italian director’s new, semi-autobiographical film reveals a charming and rarely seen side of his home city

Tours of ancient catacombs run by a local group of friends are revitalising a Naples neighbourhood that was once prey to the Camorra

The author’s Neapolitan novels and the TV series My Brilliant Friend have brought attention to Naples’ Rione Luzzatti district, where a dramatic mural will become a major draw

As Naples prepares to host the world pizza-making championships, here are 10 places to go for a pizza the action
• Plus the village pizzeria voted Italy’s best

This exuberant city revered for its food, culture and history is now forging a reputation as one of Europe’s most exciting hubs for contemporary art

Fans of the writer’s Neapolitan novels are flocking to discover the south Italian city, whose personality is as important to the books as the protagonists

In an underground chamber in the Italian city, the skulls of plague victims are stacked high but the traditions surrounding their preservation are ultimately uplifting, telling us a lot about the human capacity for caring

We follow in the (fictional) footsteps of the heroines of My Brilliant Friend and its sequels, into the alleyways, gritty apartment blocks and piazzas of this energetic and fascinating city

Experts writing for a new pizza bible pick a pizzeria in a village near Naples, where chef Franco Pepe tops his handmade dough with local artisanal ingredients