Baroque’s off: my mission to seek out Vienna’s modernist masterpieces
Vienna’s art nouveau movement inspired buildings – from villas to underground stations – that should receive as many plaudits as its imperial palaces
October 2023
Rail journey of the month
Rail route of the month: along the Franz Josef railway from Prague to Vienna
Our slow travel expert explores a historic central European rail route served by rural trains operating at a pace that would have been familiar to the Habsburgs
March 2023
The Catholic church offering free tattoos? It’s a cross I’d be happy to bear
Bidisha Mamata
A monastic group in Vienna is offering to ink followers: with its cycle of pain and regret, it’s pure Old Testament, says Observer columnist Bidisha Mamata
January 2023
Rail journey of the month
Rail route of the month: through the Alps to the Adriatic – Vienna to Trieste
Our slow travel expert finds the perfect excursion for winter days when daylight hours are short, leaving the Austrian capital just after dawn and reaching the Adriatic port at dusk
June 2022
From the Guardian archive
The passing of the Vienna cafe – archive, 1922
15 June 1922: The old Vienna cafe was a bourgeoise institution, but the middle class has become so poor and desperate that it can no longer pay even the small price of a cup of coffee
March 2020
In a whirl: aesthetic overload in Vienna
Art, music, coffee, chocolate cake … the Austrian capital, also the cultural heart of Europe, has it all
February 2020
How do you get teenagers on a cycling holiday? Try the Danube for an easy ride
‘The prospect of cajoling my kids to cycle from Vienna to Budapest filled me with dread – but the only drama came from the scenery’
January 2020
Dream ticket: the night train from Cologne to Vienna
With Austria’s state railway revamping its night train network, our writer ponders the future of travel in Europe on one of its Nightjet sleeper cars
December 2019
A local's guide
A local’s guide to Vienna: 10 top tips
With such a rich cultural and historical heritage, the Austrian capital is a wonder to wander but don’t overlook its diverse neighbourhoods, cuisine and bars
November 2019
Six of Europe’s best cities for vintage and retro shopping
Locals share their go-to shops and markets for great-value items with bags of style and a tale to tell. Scroll down to see collectors’ favourite finds
February 2018
A whirl through Vienna's modernist era, 100 years on
Celebrating a century at the heart of the modernist movement, the Austrian capital is putting on quite a show
March 2017
A great little place I know
Sleeve notes: Recordbag, the essential music shop stop in Vienna
If you love music Recordbag is the perfect spot: a small, independent shop that supports up and coming bands, hosts in-store gigs and has its own label
February 2017
Nigel Slater recipes
Nigel Slater’s black pudding, baked apples and celeriac mustard mash recipe
Vienna’s much-loved classic ‘heaven and earth’ dish is the inspiration for a delicious winter warmer by Nigel Slater
September 2016
Five European city tours with a difference
From a hair-raising rooftop walk of Stockholm to a drag queen-led stroll through Hamburg and sniffing your way around Vienna
February 2016
Ten tips on how not to get in trouble on your travels
Will Coldwell
Whether it’s burping in the streets of Vienna, bible bashing in the Maldives or gum smuggling in Singapore, here’s what you need to avoid
Shortcuts
Five things to do in Vienna, the world’s most liveable city
The Austrian capital officially offers the highest quality of life on the planet. Even if you don’t live there, here’s how to make the most of a visit
A great little place I know
Coffee in the anti-cafe: hipsters beware Vienna’s Cafe Am Heumarkt
Waiters wear string vests, elderly men mutter in corners and fridges buzz insistently. Cafe Am Heumarkt certainly isn’t cool and edgy – but that’s what this novelist loves about it
August 2015
The Art Fund charity launches a line of luxury holidays
Secret doors will open, champagne will flow and VIP access to the art world will be afforded the wealthy. But it’s a curious departure for a charity that champions free museum admission
May 2015
The Vienna hotel where refugees welcome the guests
