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Observer dispatch

A weekly in-depth report from Observer correspondents across the world
  • In sector 6 of Cañada Real in Madrid residents have to use butane gas cylinders and gasoline generators to have electricity for a few hours a day. Antonio, 40 with his grandchildren, Yumara and Diego.

    ‘We’re living like wild animals’: Europe’s largest shantytown waits in vain for power

    Four years after the lights went out in the Cañada Real, outside Madrid, people plead for electricity as another winter approaches
  • Jaqueline, outside her family’s home in Colombier-Saugnieu on the outskirts of Lyon. She is among 54% of voters there who cast their ballot for the National Rally (RN) party.

    ‘We want our peace’: why is France’s far-right support such a rural affair?

    Media rhetoric about migrants and crime is rallying support for the National Rally in the countryside but, say city folk, the reality is different
  • Dozens of statues by a park path, will father and toddler walking

    ‘Ghostly’: Taiwan park dotted with hundreds of statues of late dictator as row rages over their fate

    Tributes that were removed from public spaces after the end of Chiang Kai-shek’s brutal rule in 1975 now crowd a site west of Taipei
  • Women take part in a protest on 23 December 2023 in Mofalcone after the mayor shut down Muslim prayer.

    Italian town in turmoil after far-right mayor bans Muslim prayers

    Bangladeshi residents and others in Monfalcone say decisions to prohibit worship at cultural centres and banning burkinis at the beach is part of anti-Islam agenda
  • Una Burns is the manager of Charlie's Bar in Enniskillen.

    Lonely this Christmas? Not at the Northern Ireland pub whose £700 ad went viral

    Charlie’s Bar in Fermanagh has become a symbol of action against isolation. And on Christmas Day, as every year, it will open its doors
  • Contenders get ready for the Cesenatico metal detecting contest on the Adriatic coast.

    Gold, lucky charms or rusty nails? On the hunt with Italy’s detectorists

    A veteran hobbyist explains the allure of searching for treasure in a huge pine forest in the province of Viterbo
  • n/a<br>DONBAS, UKRAINE - MARCH 29: Soldiers from the 214th Battalion test drive tanks as they prepare for battle at a temporary base on March 29, 2023 in Donetsk Oblast, Ukraine. Ukraine’s military are preparing for a spring offensive as they wait for delivery of western weapons. (Photo by Ed Ram For The Guardian)

    Surrounded and outgunned, Ukraine’s tank crews prepare for battle of Bakhmut

    Western armour has begun to arrive – but many troops will still have to make do with old Soviet machines in the long-awaited counteroffensive
  • People walking and cycling on road with destroyed building in background

    In the rubble of Taiz, all roads to a normal life are blocked

    Once Yemen’s capital of culture, the city is split between Houthi and government control – and a drive that used to take five minutes now takes five hours
  • Children at the school in Zurrug sing anti-racism songs that praise the Rapid Support Forces.

    Blood, sand and gold: victor’s city rises from ashes of Sudan’s civil war

    The ruthless leader of country’s Arab militia has grand plans for the remote western province. But the transformation of Zurrug risks more unrest
  • Two girls walk down a street in an impoverished area of Soweto.

    Crime, power cuts, poverty: 30 years on, the townships question Nelson Mandela’s legacy

    As South Africa marks 30 years since the anti-apartheid leader’s release from prison, some people on the streets where he once lived now see him as a sellout’ rather than a hero
  • Kuzguncuk, Istanbul

    Bosphorus’s amateur ship spotters keep watch on global power struggle

    They’re up before dawn to track traffic on the busy strait – and their sightings of warships can help to predict Russian strategy. The Observer meets ‘a nerdy little community’
  • Residents of Rolfsgatan in Malmö organised a street party to raise morale after a bombing.

    Bombs and blood feuds: the wave of explosions rocking Sweden’s cities

    Incidents involving explosives have risen to crisis levels in a country where the crime rate is low
  • Pope Francis, right, with Pope Emeritus Benedict XVI at Vatican City.

    Two popes, plotting cardinals and the fallout of an explosive book

    Benedict and his inner circle are accused of intervening to halt Pope Francis relaxing celibacy rules as the battle between conservative and liberal factions takes a new twist
  • Craig David performs on stage in Avoriaz during Snowboxx festival in March 2019.

    Ski resorts lure millennials with the sound of music

    As fiftysomethings pack the slopes, cost and a cultural shift are putting off younger skiers – and the industry is having to respond
  • Protest over internet service blockade in Srinagar<br>epa08081345 Kashmiri youth hold placards during a protest against an Internet, SMS and prepaid mobile services blockade, in Srinagar, Kashmir, India, 19 December 2019. The internet, SMS and prepaid mobile services remained shut since 05 August 2019 when the government of India abrogated Article 370 of the Indian constitution, that accorded a special status to Indian Kashmir. EPA/FAROOQ KHAN

    ‘Many lives have been lost’: five-month internet blackout plunges Kashmir into crisis

    Seven million people are still unable to go online after a ban first imposed from Delhi last August
  • Bilal al Omri provides hot drinks to customers at his beach cafe in Gaza on Christmas Day 2019

    By 2020, the UN said Gaza would be unliveable. Did it turn out that way?

    A 2012 report warned of the fragility of the Strip. Now, unemployment is above 50% and many wish to leave. But from cafes to software houses, an indomitable spirit still shines
  • A vintage American car passes a cinema in Old Havana.

    Quiet docks, empty streets … Cubans count the cost as tourists stay away

    After Donald Trump reversed Obama’s warming of relations, curtailing flights and cruise ship visits, the island is braced for a return to economic limbo
  • Women in power: Left to right, Li Andersson, Maria Ohisalo, Sanna Marin and Katri Kulmuni.

    Feminism comes of age in Finland as female coalition takes the reins

    For more than a century, the Nordic country has blazed a trail for women in politics. But even there, the battle for equality isn’t over, writes Emma Graham-Harrison
  • A man jumps over a fire during a voudou ceremony to grant protection to the people, as protesters called for the resignation of President Jovenel Moïse.

    Sick of corruption, Haiti looks back to its revolutionary hero for hope

    As conflict racks the nation and anger at a political scandal grows, Haitians are rallying to the country’s founding father more than 200 years after his assassination
  • Luanda’s seafront: many buildings in the city centre, begun during the boom years, remain unfinished.

    ‘You can always laugh’: Angola’s new wave of standup comedians

    In a country scarred by war, corruption and inequality, a vibrant comedy scene has emerged
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