Jewellery in India is as steeped in tradition and culture as everything else. The country has a rich history of gem trade and was the original home of renowned gemstones such as the Hope Diamond and Koh-i-noor which were mined from Golconda in today’s Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. History records the presence of gem traders and gemologists in royal courts who looked after precious stones, estimated their value and identified fakes and imitations. Today, this is known as Gemology.
What is gemology?
This is a scientific discipline that involves a comprehensive analysis and understanding of various facets related to gemstones, ranging from chemical composition to physical characteristics. A gemologist employs specialised equipment to examine and analyse these properties to determine a gemstone’s type, origin, treatments, and authenticity.
For example, an untrained individual might mistake a red stone for a ruby, but a gemologist will observe how light interacts with it to identify it as such. Through the phenomenon of double refraction in rubies, where light splits into distinct orangey-red and purplish-red colours, gemologists can distinguish them from red spinels and garnets, which maintain a consistent colour.
Over time, there has been a notable surge in treatments and laboratory-grown gems, especially from the mid-1970s. From heat-treated sapphires to laser-drilled diamonds and laboratory-grown rubies, the variety expanded as demand soared. Therefore, the need to identify genuine gemstones also increased. This requires powerful tools to examine the material at high magnification, documenting properties, chemical composition, spectral features and more. A gemologist does not have room to make mistakes, just like a pilot of an aeroplane has no margin for an error.
Education
To become a gemologist, an aspirant must choose the right course and institute, with curriculum that keeps up with the latest research. Premiere institutes adopt the latest pedagogical practices and updated information about the various techniques and instruments essential for the trade. There are a variety of courses tailored to different facets of the field:
Grading and identifying stones: Diploma programmes and short-term lab classes aid students in learning about coloured stones and their market, understanding how gems are mined, fashioned, and sold, and efficiently using the correct tools to identify gemstones.
Diamond Grading: Specialised diploma and short-term courses delve into the characteristics that determine a diamond’s value, including the Cut, Colour, Clarity, and Carat Weight also known as the 4Cs, how to grade diamonds in the D-to-Z colour range, identify laboratory-grown diamonds, treatments, and simulants, and determine when advanced testing is necessary.
In addition to professional qualifications, gemologists also need specific skills such strong analytical skills to meticulously examine and identifying unique features of gemstones. Attention to detail is crucial to accurately evaluate various aspects like colour, clarity, and cut. Good communication skills are necessary to convey grading information effectively to clients or colleagues. Patience is indispensable, as the grading process can be time-consuming.
Career options
Gemologists have a range of job roles to venture into. As appraisers, they assess the value of gemstones with precision. Alternatively, they could specialise as auction house jewellery specialists or a jewellery retailer to interact directly with clients. For those aspiring to build their careers as entrepreneurs, starting a business in gemstones will allow them to seek out rare gems and jewellery pieces and sell them. They can also delve into the intricate world of diamond grading and gem identification, and evaluate these precious stones with meticulous detail.
The journey doesn’t end with the initial career choice. With experience and commitment to continuous learning, specialising in rare or unique gemstones can lead to opportunities in niche markets, increasing demand for expertise.
The writer is senior director, Education and Market Development, Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
Published - April 21, 2024 05:47 pm IST
