There is a sense of opulence conveyed by the name La Panthera even before you enter the restaurant. Past the ornate black door emblazoned in gold with the symbol of a panther and the name of the restaurant, you enter what feels like a chic living room of a European manor, but set right at the heart of Bandra Kurla Complex.
Chef Manuel Olveira, the man behind the Spanish sensation La Loca Maria, and his wife Mickee Tuljapurkar envisioned a space that captured the old-world charm of Europe. Being in the art and financial hub of Mumbai, they wanted to create an impact and hence came up with the name La Panthera which conveys power and elegance in one go.
The lobster risotto at La Panthera | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Stepping inside, one’s eyes are drawn towards the impressive 21-foot marble and wood bar before proceeding to notice the coffered ceiling with intricate mouldings and grooves as well as the low-hanging brass chandeliers. There is that sense of opulence again when you take in the 15-foot artwork titled ‘The Beast Within’, the graceful arches, velvet curtains, murals and paintings peppered across the 2,500 square-foot restaurant.
The time-honoured traditions of European cuisine with its diversity of ingredients and richness of flavours lends itself well to the ambience. The 14 signature handcrafted cocktails are made from scratch with in-house cordials and syrups. To begin with, Mickee suggests the mezcal-based Roll The Dice with lavender nectar, bitter bianco, citrus and orange blossom. There is a smokiness to the drink which goes well with the floral notes and we are hooked.
Timeless European classics and contemporary culinary techniques combine in the menu, which takes inspiration from the owners’ travels across Europe. The Beetroot Carpaccio, for instance, comes with a flaky philo pastry which forms the base. “This is a dish inspired by our trip to Greece where we had something similar and we were very keen on replicating it here,” says Manuel. The subtle hint of wasabi with braised onions, arugula and parmesan shavings along with the beets is a match made in carpaccio heaven. The dish comes with tenderloin in the non-vegetarian version.
Other dishes among the cold plates include the decadent stracciatella with poached pear and crystal toast, and tiradito de hamachi served in a delicious pineapple leche de tigre with bursts of flavours of cucumber and coriander oil. The charred octopus stands out for its stuffing of the Spanish nduja pork sausage and potato, a robust combination that brings out the sweetness of the octopus.
Woodfired pizza at La Panthera | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
One of the highlights of the menu are the woodfired pizzas made with dough which has been fermented for 48 hours resulting in pillowy, airy crusts. Our La Panthera Pizza is topped with the aforementioned nduja pork sausage enhanced with a creamy burrata and tomato sauce. The gnocchi is just how we like it, light and fluffy. However, the basil pesto is overpowering and mars the experience. The roast chicken is dry and we are left to pick at the poached potatoes on the side.
Things look cheerful again with the arrival of the tiramisu La Panthera and the La Panthera profiterole, but there is no respite here either. The former is excessively sweet and the latter has a choux pastry which is too cold and hard to bite through. We suggest you stick to the tapas and pizzas.
La Panthera is at Unit 1 & 2, INS Tower, G Block, BKC, Bandra East, Mumbai 400051. Here a meal for two costs approximately ₹5,000 (plus taxes)
