More than curry talk with Chef Atul Kochhar

When Chef Atul Kochhar visited Hyderabad to present a culinary event, he wasn’t sure what food to pick and what to avoid. So, along with his team, he created a menu that mapped his journey with Indian food, for a culinary session organised by Swiggy Dineout at The Westin. 

Known for his love for Indian cuisine, he says he respects it and considers he is still learning about its vastness. The two-time Michelin star chef says, “My personal opinion is that there is nothing called Indian cuisine because it is not singular; I prefer cuisines of India because that does some justice to what India as a country has to offer in terms of food.” 

Curry talk

As an India-born chef he objects to the generalisation Indian food is subjected to. “It is always curry and naan! The task is not simply about educating Westerners. Indians also need to learn and embrace the beauty and variety offered by the States of India. I don’t consider myself an expert. I have a long way to go. “

He adds “I grew up in South India and honestly, people in South India don’t know how diverse their food culture is. There is so much within the five states to learn. A foreigner’s perspective has always been curry but that outlook is elevated thanks to The World’s 50 Best, Michelin Guide and the likes of the late Egone Ronay (Hungarian food critic), who have done a lot in recognising the depth of the country’s cuisine.” 

Atul also mentions the work of chef Garima Arora — the first Indian woman chef to win a Michelin star — chef Srijith Gopinathan and chef Himanshu Arora in popularising Indian cuisine in the rest of the world. 

Talking about labels of authenticity, Atul feels the term ‘authentic’ should be done away with when describing food in the Indian subcontinent. “The right word should be ‘traditional’. We are traditional people who live with our ethos to food, life and music. Authentic I feel is time-bound, what is authentic today may not remain authentic to my son and so on. A change in ingredients and the quality of produce contribute largely to the flavour profile of food. When I was working with The Oberois, the day bell pepper came into the kitchen, the executive chef called in all the young chefs to see it. It was first brought in from Shimla, where it was first cultivated in India. It was a new ingredient The same goes for asparagus and broccoli; now broccoli and bell pepper are common ingredients.”   

On ingredient fads

The chef is not against using imported ingredients if used as a fad. “It is a fad, it will soon wear off. Something backed by science and research will continue to live in our kitchens and be a part of our eating culture.” 

As a traditionalist, he believes that if Indian food wasn’t good, we would have been long gone. He says, “Our ancestors mastered the art of adopting and incorporating ingredients and making it a part of our daily lives.” . 

In the context of gut bacteria, as we discuss kimchi and kombucha, the traditionalist goes so far as to hold the idli-dosa or a bowl of rice fermented overnight as equally, if not more, effective. ‘This is how my ancestors did it,” he says.

His food window

The world of food and various kitchens opened up to Atul when as a 17-year-old student he landed in Chennai to study. It was idli-dosa sambar that mesmerised him. “Cabbage poriyal was my flavour bomb in Chennai. Simple, steamed, easy garnish, yet so flavourful. I invited myself to my friend’s home and was introduced to the flavours of Kerala, Karnataka. Then I landed in Kakinada with a friend and was introduced to the joy of eating crab claws and the different ways of making a crab.” 

Would Atul the chef want to go on a food nostalgia trip? He responds, “As a food tourist? Absolutely! There is so much happening in India with food and the hyperlocal flavours. There is so much to learn and showcase.”