Seaside tales on your plate at Kari Theory in Chennai

Kari Theory at Radisson Blu Hotel GRT Chennai celebrates its first anniversary with Kadal Virundhu (a feast from the sea). Executive chef Kishore Kumar Neethinathan, who develops the recipes for this restaurant with his team, says that within a short period of time, the restobar has carved a niche for its Tamil cuisine.

Crab Omlette | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

The crisp menu presents street food from across the State presented in a visually appealing manner. “Some of the most popular dishes on our menu are the crab omlette, Marina nethli (anchovy) fry, Burma colony atho and Pazhaverkadu meen curry,” says Kishore, adding that he has also introduced sennakunni (dried tiny shrimps), podi idli, Kaayalpattinam prawn biriyani and squid toast for this fortnight-long celebration.

We started our meal with a soothing crab meat soup followed by soraputtu gola vadai (similar to the mutton gola, here the shark is steamed, crumbled and sauteed with spices and this mixture is shaped in to marble-sized balls and deep-fried in oil), which was low on spice and high on flavour. The deep fried delicacy is sure to find a permanent place on the menu. I was also impressed by the sennakunni podi idli, an unexpected combination of flavours.

Nandu omlette and Soraputtu Gola Vadai | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Chef Kishore, who has travelled extensively in the State researching on regional and street food, has anecdotes for each of the dishes added to the menu. “The world of sea food is fascinating. I learned to make the Pazhaverkadu meen kulambu from the fisherfolk, and they use a fish called mavalasi, found in that region. They always keep tamarind soaked in water in their homes and when they get fish, they immediately prepare the gravy using the tamarind pulp, chilli powder, salt and turmeric. In my version of this dish, I have added garlic as well,” says the chef.

For main course, we try the Prawn Urundai Biriyani made with short grain, aromatic seeraga samba rice. Combined with the aroma of fresh spices and minced prawn dumplings, the dish is packed with flavour. “For the biriyani, I have followed the Erode region style, where they do not use cardamom but use maze, fennel, pepper, cinnamon, clove and kadal paasi (a variety of marine algae used in cooking). Fresh green chilli, coriander and mint leaves are ground to a paste along with ginger and garlic,” says chef Kishore. The prawn puli kulambu, which we sample next, has a pleasing balance of sourness and spice.

For dessert, we are pampered with mango payasam and muscoth halwa, made using coconut milk. Keeping in mind the joy of street dining, the food at Kari Theory is served with cheer and imagination.

The Kadal Virundhu festival is on till June 16, from 11.30am to 11pm at Kari Theory, Radisson Blu GRT Chennai, Pazhavanthangal. For reservations, call 8062210101. Upon request they serve you combo platter also in both veg and non veg.