It’s the start of a new year, and there is hope in the air. The corona virus is still playing hide-and-seek with us, but people everywhere are stepping out of their homes. We remember the days when we were trapped at home and we want to make the most of the open air now. So, how about turning the New Year into a year-long festival of street food? After all, our street food is a symbol of openness — even when the vendors sit in congested lanes, or in tiny shops.
On a sunny — or even foggy — morning, put on your cap and scarf and head to Old Delhi. For breakfast, there is no place like Chandni Chowk, but you could make a quick stop for some thickened milk and jalebi at Makhan Lal Tika Ram’s in Kashmere Gate.
Traditional delicacies Nagori halwa
Once you are in Chandni Chowk, have some bedmi sabzi at Shiv Misthan Bhandar (at the mouth of Kucha Ghasiram). Don’t miss its nagori halwa — small and crisp puris eaten with hot halwa. Shyam Sweets at the crossing of Nai Sarak and Chawri Bazar is also known for its bedmi sabzi and nagori. If you are a puri chholey person, stop by at Chaina Ram’s, near the Fatehpuri Mosque.
Did someone say chholey bhaturey? Chaina Ram has also started selling this popular Dilli breakfast fare. But the city is peppered with big and small — and good, bad or ugly — chholey bhaturey counters. I swear by Baba Nagpal’s in Lajpat Nagar and Sita Ram’s in Paharganj. Chache in the lane behind Bungalow Road is not bad either.
If you are in Chandni Chowk and craving a snack, Natraj is the place for you. The urad dal dahi vadas are soft; the aloo tikkis with a moong dal paste stuffing, despite being doused with chutneys and yoghurt, are crispy.
Keen on a vegetarian lunch? Try out Adarsh Bhojanalaya on Haveli Haider Kuli. Years ago, Delhi had basas, which catered to vegetarian traders who’d moved to Delhi. The basas are almost all gone, but places like Adarsh, Brijwasi and Annapurna Bhoj in Chandni Chowk still serve delicious ghee-soaked rotis and vegetable dishes, with dal.
If you are lucky, you will find some wandering vendors in Chandni Chowk. Look out for kulheys — roasted potatoes, with a scooped-out centre filled with tomatoes, peas, etc. Vendors also sell a delicious sweet called daulat ki chaat in the months between Diwali and Holi.
Those with the proverbial sweet tooth can spend all day in Chandni Chowk. Pick up a juicy jalebi from a shop widely known as the Old Famous Jalebiwala, at the mouth of Dariba Kalan. Have the rich moong dal halwa at Churuwala in Kucha Mahajani. For kheer, visit Bade Mian in Sirkiwalan on the Lal Quan Road.
Customers wait for kebabs from a food stall in the Old Delhi area of New Delhi., | Photo Credit: BRENT LEWIN
Spend the evenings at Jama Masjid and Zakir Nagar. The butter chicken at Aslam’s in Matia Mahal is heavenly, and will have you licking your fingers. Also in Matia Mahar is Shabrati. Do not miss its slow-cooked shanks. In the same area you can dig into Haji Mohammed Hussain’s crispy fried chicken. And then how about stopping by at Qureshi Kabab Centre near Jama Masjid? The kebabs there are moist and smoky, and you’ll keep coming back for more.
Mutton Nihari | Photo Credit: THULASI KAKKAT
You will find some wonderful kebab and nihari spots in other parts of Delhi, too, but Zakir Nagar is a treasure trove. The food stalls are in the market area: you can’t miss Talib, known for his succulent kebab and tikkas. Stop by at Lucknow Galawati kababs for some melt-in-the-mouth fare. And there is nothing quite like Javed’s thick and flavourful nihari.
So, usher in the New Year with all kinds of delectable street food. You will never be bored — in fact, you will find a lot on your plate!
Breakfast menu with bedmi poori and sabzi | Photo Credit: SOMA BASU
