Cod father: Nobu has revolutionised Japanese cusine – and now hotels – around the world
There was a time when Japanese food meant exactly the same thing wherever you were, whatever the occasion and budget: sashimi, teppanyaki, sushi, teriyaki and tempura. In the 1990s, however, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa changed all that when he launched his deliriously inventive spin on classic Japanese tropes layered with nuanced South American influences, Peruvian specifically – yellowtail sashimi jalapeño and tempura eel, for instance.
From the start, a strong stylish streak has run through all of Matsuhisa’s projects. When the first Nobu opened in New York in 1994, he tapped David Rockwell for the interiors. ‘I explained to David the importance of the flow of the kitchen and the connection between the kitchen and the sushi bar. He understood both what I wanted and my style of cooking, and was able to translate my vision into a beautiful restaurant.’
It’s a formula that Matsuhisa has repeated over the years with great success. Within a few months of the first issue of Wallpaper*, he partnered with Robert De Niro, restaurateur Drew Nieporent, and Singaporean hotelier Christina Ong to open his first European outpost in London’s Metropolitan Hotel. Nobu London was the proverbial instant success. Every night, the deliberately austere dining room was mobbed by the city’s beau monde – every table swooning over the celebrated (and much imitated) black cod and miso. Within a year, it owned a Michelin star.
‘I think all the pieces just came together at the right time when we opened Nobu London,’ Matsuhisa now recalls. ‘Design definitely plays an important role in the overall dining experience. I think people who take the time to go out to dine are looking for a combination of things. It is not just about the food; it’s also about good service in a welcoming environment.’
Twenty years on, the quest for new experiences and environments continues. The original Nobu New York is relocating from its Tribeca perch to Broadway, while a clutch of hotels are prepping for their close-ups – including Nobu Hotel Eden Roc, which opens this winter in Miami Beach, and Nobu Hotel Shoreditch, scheduled for London next spring. ‘To me, food is like fashion,’ Matsuhisa says. ‘It’s constantly evolving. We are very excited about Nobu Hotel Shoreditch because it will be our third London location where guests will discover everything they love about Nobu.’
Nobu is one of our 20 Game-Changers. Read about the other 19 here
As originally featured in the October 2016 issue of Wallpaper* (W*211)
INFORMATION
For more information, visit Nobu’s website
Illustrator: Eoin Ryan
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Daven Wu is the Singapore Editor at Wallpaper*. A former corporate lawyer, he has been covering Singapore and the neighbouring South-East Asian region since 1999, writing extensively about architecture, design, and travel for both the magazine and website. He is also the City Editor for the Phaidon Wallpaper* City Guide to Singapore.
-
Wallpaper* Architects’ Directory 2024: meet the practices
In the Wallpaper* Architects Directory 2024, our latest guide to exciting, emerging practices from around the world, 20 young studios show off their projects and passion
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
St. Vincent on designing her Klaus Nomi-inspired guitar line
St. Vincent is a Wallpaper* guest editor for 2024. Here, she unpacks her long-standing relationship with the guitar. It started with wearing one in front of a mirror. Who knows how it ends. But somewhere in the middle, there is fun and freedom and a well-tailored instrument
By St. Vincent Published
-
Artist Jonathan Baldock plays hide and seek with the windows of Hermès' London flagship
A series of fantastical, brightly coloured hedges, dotted with peepholes, transform Hermès' New Bond Street store, offering an interactive experience for the passerby
By Anne Soward Published
-
IWA sake brewery by Kengo Kuma is Best Roofscape: Wallpaper* Design Awards 2022
IWA sake brewery in Japan, by Kengo Kuma & Associates, scoops Best Roofscape at the Wallpaper* Design Awards 2022
By Tony Chambers Last updated
-
Aman Tokyo’s new patisserie is a culinary destination
The legendary hotel's first standalone patisserie is a culinary theatre where customers can watch the highly skilled chefs at work
By Melina Keays Last updated
-
This Japanese cooking tool is revolutionising kitchen tech
The Anaori Kakugama is a new multi-purpose kitchen tool that uses carbon graphite to lock in umami flavour.
By Mary Cleary Last updated
-
Boano Prišmontas’ portable tea house blends Japanese ritual with modern functionality
By Emi Eleode Last updated
-
Secrets of Japanese cookery revealed in Phaidon’s latest graphic tome
By Elly Parsons Last updated
-
Kyoto’s first Blue Bottle Coffee shop is an architectural zen retreat
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
A new winery by Masamichi Katayama helps rural Okayama savour Japanese wine
By Jens H Jensen Last updated
-
For goodness’ sake: Soho+Co’s pop-up sake bar makes a splash in London
By Holly Patrick Last updated