Hedi Slimane takes Celine to Norfolk for ‘Anglomania’ menswear collection: watch the film
Inspired by Evelyn Waugh’s ‘Bright Young Things’, Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine menswear collection is captured by the designer in a romantic short film set at the Palladian Holkham Hall on England’s Norfolk coastline
Thirty years in the making, Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine collection transports the Celine man from the streets of Paris to Holkham Hall, a rolling 18th-century estate on Britain’s Norfolk coastline designed by William Kent for the 1st Earl of Leicester in the grand Palladian style.
The collection is presented in a film directed by the designer (watch it below), a cinematic short that sees models walk amid the home’s porticos and manicured gardens, their outfits recalling Evelyn Waugh and his social circle in the 1920s. Indeed, the Summer 2025 collection’s title, ‘The Bright Young’, references ‘Bright Young Things’, a name given to the group of hard-partying socialites and bohemians which would be satirised by Waugh in his 1930 novel Vile Bodies.
Celine Summer 2025 menswear: ‘The Bright Young’
The particular allure of England, says Slimane, has been percolating for the past three decades, since he was a student at Ecole de Louvre in the latest 1980s. Then, he wrote an essay on ‘Anglomania’, which spanned the Comte D’Artois, who brought an English influence to the French court in Versailles, to 1920s socialites Stephen James Napier Tennant and photographer Cecile Beaton, known for their decadent, liberated lifestyles as part of Waugh’s set.
Slimane has also long been embedded in the British music scene. In 2020, he photographed six young British musicians for his ‘Portrait of a Performer’ series, including Bad Static’s Floyd Magee and Junior Cobbinah of Malady.
Here, though, Slimane riffs on the traditions and uniforms of the British upper classes – from straw boater hats and public school uniforms, to tailcoats and rowing blazers – while flourishes of romance come in sprays of country garden flowers that emerge from the brims of hats or the baskets of bikes, the latter specially designed by the designer for the film. Footwear sees plays on classic British styles: the monk strap, the derby and the Richelieu Oxford shoe.
Still, the collection retains the frisson of subversion that runs throughout Slimane’s work. Abbreviated chequered shorts are cut high on the thigh, worn with knee-high electric red socks, while tailoring has a louche, undone sensibility and is often worn with dark sunglasses – long a symbol of Slimane’s rebellious style.
Meanwhile, moments of craft demonstrate the savoir-faire of the Celine atelier and community of craftspeople, whether the 1920s English summer cashmere cloth rewoven for Celine for the collection, or hand embroidery, forming trompe l’oeil motifs or ‘heraldic’ Celine patches that reproduce techniques on early 20th-century military uniforms.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
With its horseriding on the lawns, zooming bicycles and lingering, longing shots of the palatial grounds and its yearning inhabitants, the film recalls the great British costume dramas like Brideshead Revisited, an adaption of the Waugh novel screened on the BBC in the early 1980s (which in turn would inspire 2023’s breakout film Saltburn).
Alongside last season’s Winter 2024 collection film, a Western epic directed by Slimane in California’s Mojave Desert, this latest celluloid outing is a testament to his ambitious cinematic vision – an auteur, as much as a designer.
Watch the film of the Celine Summer 2025 menswear show below.
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
-
Three new coffee makers for a contemporary brew, from a casual cup to a full-on branded espresso
Three new coffee makers, from AeroPress, Jura and Porsche x La Marzocco, range from the defiantly manual to the bells and whistles of a traditional countertop espresso machine
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Don't miss Luxembourg's retro-futuristic lab pavilion in Venice
As the Venice Biennale enters its last few weeks, catch 'A Comparative Dialogue Act' at the Luxembourg Pavilion
By Amah-Rose Abrams Published
-
A Berlin park atop an office building offers a new model of urban landscaping
A Berlin park and office space by Grüntuch Ernst Architeken offer a symbiotic relationship between urban design and green living materials
By Michael Webb Published
-
Hedi Slimane to leave Celine after seven years; Michael Rider named as successor
Hedi Slimane will leave Celine after a seven-year tenure as artistic, creative and image director across fashion, beauty and lifestyle at the French couture house, with Michael Rider – an alumnus of Phoebe Philo’s Celine – named as his successor
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine collection is an homage to the leading ladies of 1960s France: watch the film
Inspired by listening to The Velvet Underground and Nico while re-reading Françoise Sagan, Hedi Slimane pays ode to legendary French it-girls like Sagan, Françoise Hardy and Juliette Gréco with a collection rooted in the liberatory spirit of the 1960s
By Jack Moss Published
-
A guide to the best fashion stores London has to offer
As London Fashion Week arrives in the British capital today (13 September 2024), Wallpaper* picks the must-visit London fashion stores – from big-name boutiques and classic department stores to the best in vintage, alongside the sleek and experimental
By Jack Moss Published
-
Why solid soap is the most pleasurable object to bathe with
Solid soap provides a tactile bathing experience like no other. Hannah Tindle explores why in the September 2024 Style Issue of Wallpaper*, with soaps by Chanel, Celine, Diptyque, and more, photographed by Sophie Gladstone
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
’What is the life of a woman?’: Nadège Vanhée on a decade of womenswear at Hermès
For the past ten years, Nadège Vanhée, head of womenswear at Hermès, has steered the French maison on a quietly rebellious path, exploring notions of contemplation, liberation and sensuality. Speaking to fashion features editor Jack Moss, she unpacks her evolution
By Jack Moss Published
-
Wallpaper* September 2024, The Style Issue, is on newsstands now: discover the looks of the season
Wallpaper* September 2024, The Style Issue, heralds sensual dressing for the season ahead. Hear from Dior’s Kim Jones, Hermès’ Nadège Vanhée, and tour Karl Lagerfeld’s bookshop
By Bill Prince Published
-
Celine Beauté by Hedi Slimane: ‘Rouge Triomphe’ is the quintessential red lipstick (and it’s now available worldwide)
Hedi Slimane’s Celine Beauté has officially arrived, with its debut ‘Rouge Triomphe’ lipstick available to shop globally in-store and online
By Hannah Tindle Last updated
-
‘I feel like a new designer’: inside the renaissance of Tory Burch
Tory Burch sits down with Jack Moss to talk about her creative rebirth, which prizes the experimental and the unexpected, and has seen her garner a new generation of trend-hungry devotees
By Jack Moss Published