Sound bite: ‘Theory is about real clothes. It might sound unsexy, but everything we make, we sell,' said Siddhartha Shukla, Theory’s Chief Brand Officer after today’s presentation. ‘Theory is based on an industrial complex, we are designers and manufacturers of products. We don’t separate the manufacturing from the design process — we have 100,000 sq ft of atelier in the heart of Manhattan, we develop, design and concept everything here. We produce overseas but Theory is unique in the contemporary space because it’s actually using a traditional atelier, or old couture model, where you are making everything and perfecting it right there and then moving into production. It’s very luxurious to be able to have that, and then to be able to scale it and sell thousands of units.'
Mood board: A tableau of models on a round rotating floodlit stage in the lower level of a Chelsea gallery embodied the theme of nightfall. Shukla was concerned with how fabrics change in appearance from night into daytime. It’s the subtly in detail and precision of cut that elevates Theory above other contemporary brands. Sharp double-breasted pea coats look relevant now but will stand the test of time. Although this was the first time the brand has shown men’s and women’s shown together, it felt naturally intuitive given the synergy between the two: a melange chunky jumper and coordinating scarf and belted blazers, all weighted down by robust utility boots, will slip nicely into the wardrobes of boys and girls. ‘You know, in the fittings the women wanted to wear the men’s clothes,' said Shukla, explaining simply, ‘We’re born of the city and when you live in the city everything has to work.'
Best in show: A dusty pink double-breasted suit personified the masculine feminine line that Theory walks so appealingly. A white sleeveless dress with an asymmetric hem was perfectly restrained yet not uptight. Pieces were underwritten with Theory’s ‘For Good’ traceable and responsibly sourced yarns and materials.
Theory A/W 2020
Theory A/W 2020
Theory A/W 2020
Theory A/W 2020
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Don't miss Luxembourg's retro-futuristic lab pavilion in VeniceAs the Venice Biennale enters its last few weeks, catch 'A Comparative Dialogue Act' at the Luxembourg Pavilion
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A Berlin park atop an office building offers a new model of urban landscapingA Berlin park and office space by Grüntuch Ernst Architeken offer a symbiotic relationship between urban design and green living materials
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Chaumet’s new book celebrates its most memorable collaborations with photographers'Chaumet: Photographers’ Gaze' unites jewellery editorials and campaigns captured by major photographers. Co-author Carol Woolton tells us of the ‘addictive' Chaumet archive
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Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New YorkOctogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
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‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The MetThe first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
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Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
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‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQThe Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
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Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
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Michael Kors A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s -
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s -
Rodarte A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
