Though restaurateurs John and Lisa van Haandel made an encouraging start with the launch of modern Thai joint Longrain, in 2005, it’s taken the pair close to 12 years to deliver their second act. But, as they say, patience is a virtue and, in a joint effort with chef David Moyle, the arrival of Longsong has certainly been worth the wait.
Set in a former horse stable above its sister restaurant on Little Bourke Street, Longsong is a visual departure from the more traditional dining offerings in the city’s China Town neighbourhood. Not quite a restaurant and not your average bar, the enormous space has been arranged by local firm JCB Architects to feature a small seated area – with tables that can be booked – and a substantial standing section, with a corner terrace and concertina windows to one side, and plenty of room to mingle and nibble on Moyle’s grilled skewers such as the tender calamari blackened with squid ink; perfectly rendered duck hearts; or the chunky shiitake mushroom offering.
We suggest nabbing a seat under the floating lantern installation, near the open kitchen, where you can watch the chefs churn out dishes from the restaurant’s only cooking apparatus: a wood-fired stove and grill. The menu changes often, but if you’re lucky, the perfectly crisp pork belly served with Asian greens and roti is a treat. Wash this down with a glass from one of the kegs filled with moonshine wine, while listening to the beats from the onsite DJ.
INFORMATION
Website
ADDRESS
Upstairs, 44 Little Bourke Street
-
10 books culture editor Hannah Silver recommends this winterLacking inspiration over what to read next? Wallpaper* culture editor, Hannah Silver, shares her favourite books
-
Midtown Manhattan restaurant Ánimo! takes its cues from Mexican morning ritualsDesigner Jordana Maisie creates a minimalistic yet referential setting for Ánimo!
-
First look: Leica Cine Play 1 brings premium style and tech to the world of home cinemaLeica compresses its meticulous optic know-how into the ultra-compact Cine Play 1 4K projector
-
Australian heritage meets European grandeur at Copperstone, a New South Wales retreatCopperstone is New South Wales’ answer to the European country estate, and includes a five-bedroom retreat, set in 48 acres
-
Tap into local creativity at The StandardX, MelbourneThe StandardX, Melbourne is the first hotel in The Standard Group's new breed of ‘younger and rebellious’ properties
-
Basq House is the eclectic-cool stay to know in Byron BayDesigned by StudioFAB and Léo Terrando, Basq House reverberates with the Australian town’s laid-back beach culture and artistic spirit
-
Discover Beau Sydney, an intimate two-part restaurant enlivening the city’s lanewaysBeau Sydney dishes up contemporary Australian cuisine, from baked goods to regional wines, amid elegant interiors by Smart Design Studio
-
Inside The Ghan train across Australia, new carriage interiors elevate a classic tripThe Ghan’s new carriage interiors designed by Woods Bagot reimagine modern rail travel for this epic trip between Darwin and Adelaide
-
Sydney’s The Darling shows off its playful and sophisticated suitesThe Darling in Sydney unveils its recently renovated suites by Fender Katsalidis, paying homage to the surrounding cityscape
-
St Ali & The Queen elevates Melbourne’s coffee culture with modern brews and brutalismSt Ali & The Queen is a Fiona Lynch Office-designed café and cocktail bar in Melbourne’s revitalised Queen Victoria Market
-
Kangaroo Island’s Southern Ocean Lodge returns to full splendourKangaroo Island’s Southern Ocean Lodge reopens in one of Australia’s wildest and most enchanting remote corners, following the devastating 2019 bushfires
