Deanna Zemke’s Post

"Tips from celebrity stylists" I read an article recently in The FT Arts & Style, investigating "A-list dressing and tips from celebrity stylists". Stylist, Julie Ragolia, cited that it is increasingly important that an outfit reflects a stars' personal values. Ragolia observed The Met Gala reflected this shift; “The red carpet was awash with archival looks – from Zendaya in Galliano-era Dior to Kendall Jenner in vintage Givenchy.” She continues affirming that the men she works with are concerned about the environment and the impact the fashion industry is having on the planet. She continues to explain “Re-using looks, sourcing vintage and second-hand or restyling existing wardrobe pieces are all pre-requisites of styling these days. It used to be a trend, but the approach is becoming more mainstream, as it should be.” Reading the full article was a combination of relief and buzz. It seems to me there is increasing action as well as interest.  Conversations, articles and documentaries on the impact of our modern world is one step, yet to read proof there is a cause and effect in stylists and celebrities making considered decisions upon what they are wearing to, more cruicially, appear individual and reflect their values. If this is the case for fashion, surely this can also venture into jewellery too? The raison d’être of my company, FJ, is designing and creating unique pieces. Period jewellery was mainly all bespoke; gemstones were more exotic and before electricity came in, jewellery was made by candlelight, for candlelight. The Royal Family set the fashion trends prior to our more modern celebrities and influencers. For instance, Prince Albert gifted Queen Victoria a serpent necklace, which caused them to be fashionable and the majority all uniquely made, mass-production not being a term in the Victorian-era. Jewellery motifs all had meanings then too; serpents symbolised eternal love and good fortune as well as bringing protection from harm and encouraged personal growth. I can’t help but wonder, therefore, how do we combine an individual look with simultaneously being influenced by a celebrity or infamous person we admire?  When someone purchases a piece from FJ, I can’t remake it as the gemstone itself is unique, however, another person can still enjoy a piece from the company with the same ethics, and more probably reflecting their personality. Can this way of styling be encouraged and endorsed? Not mass-producing isn’t a strategy for the bottom-line, yet it is a good one for the environment, values and, certainly, individualism. #style #unique #ft #individual #values

"Tips from celebrity stylists" I read an article recently in The FT Arts & Style, investigating "A-list dressing and tips from celebrity stylists". Stylist, Julie Ragolia, cited that it is increasingly important that an outfit reflects a stars' personal values. Ragolia observed The Met Gala reflected this shift; “The red carpet was awash with archival looks – from Zendaya in Galliano-era Dior to Kendall Jenner in vintage Givenchy.” She continues affirming that the men she works with are concerned about the environment and the impact the fashion industry is having on the planet. She continues to explain “Re-using looks, sourcing vintage and second-hand or restyling existing wardrobe pieces are all pre-requisites of styling these days. It used to be a trend, but the approach is becoming more mainstream, as it should be.” Reading the full article was a combination of relief and buzz. It seems to me there is increasing action as well as interest.  Conversations, articles and documentaries on the impact of our modern world is one step, yet to read proof there is a cause and effect in stylists and celebrities making considered decisions upon what they are wearing to, more cruicially, appear individual and reflect their values. If this is the case for fashion, surely this can also venture into jewellery too? The raison d’être of my company, FJ, is designing and creating unique pieces. Period jewellery was mainly all bespoke; gemstones were more exotic and before electricity came in, jewellery was made by candlelight, for candlelight. The Royal Family set the fashion trends prior to our more modern celebrities and influencers. For instance, Prince Albert gifted Queen Victoria a serpent necklace, which caused them to be fashionable and the majority all uniquely made, mass-production not being a term in the Victorian-era. Jewellery motifs all had meanings then too; serpents symbolised eternal love and good fortune as well as bringing protection from harm and encouraged personal growth. I can’t help but wonder, therefore, how do we combine an individual look with simultaneously being influenced by a celebrity or infamous person we admire?  When someone purchases a piece from FJ, I can’t remake it as the gemstone itself is unique, however, another person can still enjoy a piece from the company with the same ethics, and more probably reflecting their personality. Can this way of styling be encouraged and endorsed? Not mass-producing isn’t a strategy for the bottom-line, yet it is a good one for the environment, values and, certainly, individualism. #style #ft #unique #individual #values

A high-end designer bag costs how much?!? In a June Forbes article, it was revealed that a luxury brand marked up a bag by a staggering 48x—€53 to produce and sold for €2,700. How does that make you feel? 😡 Angry at the greed? 😲 Impressed by the business model? 🤔 Or wondering why people buy into it? While the article focus was on the unethical production practices (rightly so), what also stood out was the enormous mark-up - the alarming 48x the cost to make it. You really are paying for the name and not the craftsmanship. For me though, it's the artisanal craftsmanship that I love and value and there is a growing "significant market segment that values luxury quality but seeks better value for money" (McKinsey and Co). And with high-end 48x mark-up is it any wonder! Thankfully, there is a new generation of brands emerging that offer: Limited Editions, Small-Batch Production, Artisanal Craftsmanship and Pricing that makes sense. These brands are going to create their own segment, they're not high-end or high street. They will bring a superior quality and if they get it right, put the excitement back into shopping again and I for one want to make amazing quality shoes at prices that aren't absurd. I want you to feel like a child in a sweetshop knowing you can try them all and not be alarmed by the price underneath. This article opens up a pandora's box of questions but, for now - 💰 Do you think high prices are a valid marker for quality? ⚖ Would you generally like to see a better choice between high-end designers and the high-street? MADE THE EDIT Female Founders Rise - thank you for the challenge and motivating more female founders to post their stories 💓 #FairLuxury #FashionTransparency #WomenInBusiness #modernluxury #Footwearindustry #shoes #femalefoundersrise

Why are so many luxury brands lately looking... the same? Yesterday, Fabio Becheri, a brand advisory and marketing executive who has worked 20 years for luxury companies including Gucci and its parent company Kering, posted to his 13,500 followers on LinkedIn. In his post, he stated how “it’s ironic how the image of the entire fashion industry is in the hands of an extremely restricted group of talents? The same photographers, art directors, stylists, hair and makeup artists keep on gravitating from one fashion brand to the other according to their Creative Directors’ wishes,” Becheri wrote. “It says a lot about the paradox of an industry supposed to be fostering creativity but simultaneously protecting the status quo.” He took the example of celebrated photographer David Sims, known for his minimalist approach and skilful use of light and shadow, who over the past 8 months alone has shot at least 15 global campaigns for top fashion brands, including Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Saint Laurent. → Then came the same bland sans serif logo-ed products, mediocre quality, and monotonous store environments, all distributed through identical third-party wholesalers, perpetuating an endless cycle of sameness. → Marketing also became indistinguishable, with similar runway sets and collaborations. Last summer, every luxury brand took over a beach club, and by fall, they all had the same viral AR videos of their hit products. → It's true that the fashion industry often looks inward, focusing on impressing its own circles rather than considering overall brand impact and health. But when did so many brands lose the pioneering spirit they once celebrated? Read this week's SOTA's analysis to explore in full: https://lnkd.in/eYs5mWDz #SOTA #strategy #brand #fashion #luxury

This is exactly why I say: Creatives have a duty to say no to clients and a duty to resist trends for the sake of innovation and upholding standards. Saying no is a powerful tool for building and preserving your reputation (and your clients'). My design studio can't provide fully bespoke, strategy-based work—the very reason clients approach us—and also infringe on existing concepts and ideas in the final work product. Side note: In my industry, this includes the same $40 display font being used as a logo—even by high-dollar agencies for high-profile clients (*screams internally*). For the client, there's no longevity, recognition, or authentic growth by copying someone else's formula or following trends. And luxury brands wonder why their sales are plummeting... It's no enigma. In my opinion, saying no doesn't always mean spoiling the relationship. The right clients will value your insight and expertise, and they will be excited by the opportunity to pave their own trail. They'll also respect you a lot more.

Every fashion brand has its own designer, but GIVENCHY strives for more! Let’s decode how they became a legacy in today’s ever-changing market: The brand remains a powerhouse worth billions, proving that the fashion world is not as orthodox as it seems. Givenchy shows that not every brand needs a star designer to become prominent. Givenchy's history is rich with iconic moments and designs: 1. Audrey Hepburn's little black dress in "Breakfast at Tiffany's" (1961): This timeless piece revolutionized women's fashion and remains a cultural icon. 2. Jackie Kennedy's pillbox hats and tailored suits (1960s): Givenchy dressed the First Lady, solidifying its status as a symbol of elegance. 3. Ariana Grande's Met Gala dress (2018): The Sistine Chapel-inspired gown demonstrated Givenchy's ability to blend high art with contemporary fashion. Here's why the brand remains at the top: 1. Innovation: Givenchy's 2021 "Teaser" sneaker, made from a single piece of leather, showcases their commitment to pushing design boundaries. 2. Craftsmanship: The intricate beadwork on their Spring 2022 couture collection highlights their dedication to traditional techniques alongside modern design. 3. Strategic marketing: Their #GivenchyFamily campaign in 2017 featured a diverse cast of models, connecting with a younger, more inclusive audience. 4. Digital presence: Their interactive AR filter for the "Givenchy Beauty" line launched in 2020 engaged customers during pandemic lockdowns. 5. Collaborations: The Givenchy x The Walt Disney Company collection in 2022 merged high fashion with pop culture, attracting a broader customer base. In an industry often defined by star designers, Givenchy's journey testifies to the power of a strong brand and quality products. They've shown that a cohesive vision and dedication to excellence can create lasting success. Can you think of any brands successfully following a similar path? #fashion #designer #creative #success

Move over LBD — it’s Little White Dress season. THE BACKSTORY: Just like Beyoncé’s influence on the resurgence of Cowboy Core, powerhouse Zendaya (alongside her never-gets-it-wrong stylist, Law Roach) has launched the latest spring and summer trend: Tennis Core. From custom Loewe pumps to racket-inspired gowns, Zendaya’s looks on the press tour of her film “Challengers” have served the country club chic look directly into the spotlight — and it’s here to stay. THE ESSENCE: The tennis motif is about more than the sport; it represents money, elegance, class, and refined living (see: Netflix’s “Break Point”). Brands are translating this into merchandise that is, to quote Gen Z, giving: preppy chic, country club athlete, and scholarly-yet-sweet. THE PLAYERS: From fashion houses like Lacoste and TORY BURCH, to newcomers like Recreational Habits, to elevated activewear brands like Alo Yoga and EleVen by Venus Williams, and even runways like CHANEL, tennis-inspired collections are IN. THE MUST-HAVES: 1. PLEATED SKIRTS (aka SKORTS): High-waisted, pleated skirts are easy-to-wear and flattering. And we haven’t even talked about the built-in shorts yet. 2. LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS: Comfort is queen for tennis mania, both on and off the court. Brands focus on light and stretchy fabrics, like Alo’s “100% summer weight cotton,” keeping everything from polos to pullovers fresh. 3. ATHLEISURE: It’s all about Après Tennis. Alo's tennis capsule features five sporty-chic knits — a cardigan, pullover, sports bra, dress, and tennis skirt — perfect for the court, the club, and beyond. Their email campaign highlighted the “softly structured and perfectly preppy” pieces that your closet needs. Marketing these as wardrobe essentials encourages consumers to invest in luxury apparel with dual sport and style functionality. 4. TENNIS JEWELRY: Leading the minimalist jewelry trend, tennis necklaces were last year’s biggest jewelry trend with a 27% increase in interest, driven by TikTok. Tennis jewelry is versatile, pairing with everything from bikinis to Vivienne Westwood gowns. And we can’t forget the tennis bracelet, popularized by Chris Evert in the 1987 US Open. 5. STRIPES AND V’s: From knit tops to sweater vests, the simple stripe and tasteful v-neck is in. Bonus points if it’s a matching set. 6. Wimbledon WHITES: From crisp polos to the little white dress, and tube socks to trainers, white is the color of the season. THE BOTTOM LINE: Tenn-IS in. And all this writing about Tennis Core is making me want to… watch someone else play as I sip my drink courtside (wearing my best white outfit, of course). THE QUESTION: Got a favorite TC outfit or brand that’s serving it just right? Drop it below so we can discuss 🎾👇 #fashiontrends #searchtrends #branding #brandmarketing #ecommerce #tenniscore https://lnkd.in/efD82Zyi

Fashion Week: Cost vs. Couture Impact As the world of haute couture unfurls its opulent fabrics on the runway, Fashion Week stands as a testament to the intricate relationship between artistry and commerce. This prestigious event is much more than a parade of cutting-edge designs; it’s a multifaceted economic powerhouse that stimulates diverse sectors from tourism to retail. Behind the seamless drapery and flashing cameras lies an intricate web of financial considerations — the formidable costs of production, savvy marketing tactics, and strategic logistics. Fashion Week’s glitz and glamour are meticulously engineered to fabricate revenues through designer sales, lucrative sponsorships, and coveted media rights. Understanding the […]

James Denman recently posted that “Prada does not miss” and I think could be applied across the broader retail landscape. He mentions that “Volume equated Velocity” was the easy way o drive growth and measure success of a brand. He has been writing in recent posts and rightfully calls out is that these days are coming to an end and concludes “Fashion and luxury brands will win in championing intelligence, thoughtfulness, and context.” But there is more… This sets the stage that for todays’ brands (beyond Fashion and Luxury to all vertical) to achieve growth in a crowded market they must push themselves to constantly define: - Why do we exist - Why do we deserve to exist Once that brand foundation is set a critical strategy that has been missing has to be put into place – content strategy. This brings me to the strategic work that Jessica Quillin, PhD and Bryce Quillin PhD have been doing at It's a Working Title LLC. They have been at the forefront of ensuring a content strategy becomes foundational to a brands' success (especially in fashion and luxury) and imoving beyond a singular moment or campaign. The best way to win in today's consumer world is blending a fully developed content strategy into experience design (across digital, physical, and human) enabled by technology and data. Give it a read, follow Jessica Quillin, PhD and Bryce Quillin PhD, and let me know what you think! #digital #contentstrategy #growth #brand https://lnkd.in/dVvEb3p8

Brand identity. Its importance cannot be underestimated - whether as a company or as an individual. I was reminded of this again yesterday when I attended the outstanding Chloe exhibit at The Jewish Museum in NYC.  Chloe has long been one of my favorite brands, particularly during the tenures of the talented Phoebe Philo, Stella McCartney, and Clare Waight Keller. What stayed with me throughout my entire time at the exhibit, was this line on one of the placards: "Keenly aware of the importance of brand identity, (Gaby) Aghion (the founder of Chloe) insisted that retailers keep Chloe's label's on the clothes, instead of replacing them with their own (as was common at that time)." Equally as impressive was that Aghion recognized a void in the market. In postwar Paris, wealthy women wore haute couture. Women of average means wore either knockoffs of those couture pieces, or cheaply made ready to wear garments. Aghion launched Chloe to fill that space with something new -- a unique juxtaposition between the luxury and quality of haute couture and the easiness and accessibility of ready to wear. Her term -- "pret-a-porter de luxe". In doing so, she created a brand not so much for herself, as for all women. These lessons ring as true today as they did in 1952 when Chloe launched, and they apply to any product or sector. Please enjoy some photos from the exhibit. #fashion #branding #personalbranding