John Lanchester on restaurants
John Lanchester's weekly restaurant review
Restaurant: L'Enclume, Cartmel, Cumbria
For his farewell column, John Lanchester has a meal to remember for all the right reasons
Restaurants: Tramshed, London EC2
Mark Hix has opened seven restaurants in four years at the height of a recession. But has he bitten off more than he can chew with a chicken and steak joint in the East End? John Lanchester finds out
Restaurant: Petersham Nurseries Cafe, Richmond
Since Greg Malouf took over this London institution, his dazzling way with spices has transformed the cooking. But the bill still leaves a nasty taste in the mouth, says John Lanchester
Restaurant: La Bécasse, Ludlow, Shropshire
If fine dining was like this more often, maybe it wouldn't be dying out, says John Lanchester
Restaurant: Castle Terrace, Edinburgh
Tom Kitchin's second restaurant shares the same philosophy as his flagship, and the food is equally accomplished. If only there wasn't quite so much of it, says John Lanchester
Restaurant: La Grenouillère, Montreuil, France
You could say this is one of the few great modernist restaurants in England – even though, technically speaking, it's in France. By John Lanchester
Restaurant: Union Jacks, London W4
Jamie Oliver's latest venture sells what it calls 'British flatbreads'. They're basically pizzas by another name, but don't hold that against him, says John Lanchester
Restaurant: Mari Vanna, London SW1
When is a soft opening not a soft opening? When the restaurant in question is charging full whack. It's just as well, then, that this new Russian in Knightsbridge is already well up to speed, says John Lanchester
Restaurant: The Granville, Lower Hardres, near Canterbury, Kent
While the cooking at this country pub may not match that at The Sportsman, its big brother up on the north Kent coast, there's still a lot to recommend it, says John Lanchester
Restaurant: Ceviche, London W1
There's a whole lot more to Peruvian cuisine than roasted guinea pig, says John Lanchester
Restaurant: Morgan M, London EC1
Thought full-on French cooking had gone away? Pas du tout, John Lanchester discovers
Restaurant: Jimmy's Farm, Wherstead, near Ipswich, Suffolk
Jimmy Doherty, friend of Jamie Oliver and that farmer off the telly, has a new string to his bow. But is it any good, or is he just cashing in? John Lanchester finds out
Restaurant: Dabbous, London W1
Is Ollie Dabbous the Next Big Thing? John Lanchester finds out
Restaurant: Orchard, London WC1
If only more vegetarian cookery was quite so inspired and focused as it is here, says John Lanchester
Restaurant: The Cafe at Brovey Lair, Ovington, Norfolk
This tiny fish restaurant feels a lot like eating dinner in someone's home, says John Lanchester. Then again, maybe that's because you are eating dinner in someone's home
Restaurant: Bistro Union, London SW4
The neighbourhood restaurant is a notoriously difficult concept to get right. John Lanchester finds out if Adam Byatt pulls it off at his latest venture
Restaurant: Alyn Williams at the Westbury, London W1
After years working for Marcus Wareing, Alyn Williams has finally got his own name above the door. And it was well worth the wait, says John Lanchester
Restaurant review: The Pass, Lower Beeding, Horsham, West Sussex
Great cooking, shame about the concept, says John Lanchester
Restaurant: Quo Vadis, London W1
Jeremy Lee's arrival in the kitchen of Karl Marx's erstwhile home has breathed new life into this rather faded Soho institution, says John Lanchester
Restaurant: ffresh, Wales Millennium Centre, Cardiff Bay
One of the great heroes of modern British cooking is behind the menu at one of Wales's foremost public spaces. By John Lanchester
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