For Simon Gandolfi, crossing the world's second-highest pass, Tanglang La in north India, is an endurance test of dust, fumes and sleepless nights, with great views

As the home of India's ice hockey, Ladakh is starting to draw international players and fans to enjoy the thrill of matches played outside, against the stunning backdrop of the Himalayas. Jakob Horstmann joins the locals to play in the first ever international tournament in the regional capital of Leh, eastern Kashmir

The Guardian's south Asia correspondent, Jason Burke, has travelled all over India. Here he chooses his favourite hotels, from an old Rajasthani fort to a cool Delhi pad straight out of Wallpaper*

Tourists are trickling back to Kashmir despite its reputation. Ed Douglas finds it scarred but safe – and heartbreakingly beautiful

Kashmir used to be called 'the most dangerous place in the world', but today it is earning a very different reputation – as the perfect place for a ski holiday, says Tom Robbins