Why a supply-constrained Sonoma wine wants to be in the UK
24 NOVEMBER 2023
By Patrick Schmitt
Using organically-grown grapes from a pre-prohibition wine estate on the Sonoma side of Spring Mountain, the high-scoring wines of Cornell Vineyards are a sell-out in the US – so why is it bothering with the UK? That’s the question I put to the property’s owner, Henry Cornell, when speaking with him last month, following his decision to assign Pol Roger Portfolio as the first importer to bring Cornell’s wines to British shores.
Half-joking, Henry was quick to answer, commenting, “I like to build on the tradition of Roosevelt and Churchill,” referring to the ‘special relationship’ between the US and UK that can be traced back to the close bond formed by the nations’ statesmen during World War II.
But on a more serious note, his desire to see his wines distributed in the UK stems from both his deep affection for the country, and his belief that Cornell’s style of Cabernet suits the British palate.
Speaking on behalf of his wife Vanessa – who works closely with him at Cornell – Henry told db, “We are Anglophiles,” before explaining that his love for the UK followed a stint working in London from 1981-82 when he was a young lawyer. and the location on Spring Mountain.”
Vanessa added, “People are starting to pay attention to Sonoma Cabernets, and there are a small number of producers making Cabernets of very high quality, and it’s exciting to be part of that.”
She also said that there are benefits to being from Sonoma County, “We are making wine that people seek out and collectors know, and we stand out from the sea of Napa Cabs.” Unusually, Cornell is planted with the full six Bordeaux red grapes, which means that the property has Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot as one might expect, but also the much rarer Petit Verdot, Malbec and most recently, Carmenère grapes too.
Henry explained, “The reason for that is because our winemaker, Françoise Peschon – who is a genius – said that we should plant all the varieties so we have enough to play with when blending, and then we can get you a Haut Brion ’89.” Establishing Cornell Vineyards has been a long process, and with setbacks, explained Henry.
Not only did Henry wait until the 2013 vintage before the first commercial release under the Cornell Vineyards label, but in 2020, “just as we were getting to break even, with peak production, we were hit by fire, which has set us back another 5-7 years.”
Wildfires in that year saw Cornell lose half its vineyards, and half its buildings too, including the family’s house on the property, which they have yet to be able to afford to rebuild.
“We lost 10 hectares [of 20] and if our vineyard is my hand, then all the fingers were burned, but the core vineyard, which is contiguous, acted as a fire break; it’s as though God was testing us, and saving us, because that is the backbone of every vintage,” said Henry, adding.
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1moSo well deserved!