Purpose beyond presence: CV19, Instagram and why it’s #TimeToCare for fashion brands

Dr Ana Roncha (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London), Professor Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas (British School of Fashion, Glasgow Caledonian University) and Dr Mirsini Trigoni (London Metropolitan University)

COVID-19 has greatly impacted the fashion industry. With fashion weeks cancelled or postponed and shows moving online, consumption dropping and the loom of redundancies and bankruptcies, the industry has had to adapt to a new reality. Companies are shifting strategies and business models to ensure sustainability of their structures and finding ways of communicating to consumers in a more meaningful manner; one that is guided by purpose, value-driven and aligns actions with authentic values, showing they can exist beyond servicing the bottom line.

Trust and reputation are crucial and brands that have been able to engage with the situation in a responsible manner, whether towards employees, suppliers or community will be better positioned to emerge stronger.

Social media has become the preferred channel for developing customer relationships as well creating and engaging brand communities. Our examination of how they have responded to the current COVID-19 crisis offers insights into branding and marketing strategy under an extended shutdown of the regular fashion system.

During the course of our investigation, we observed that the majority of luxury brands have not adapted their content strategy apart from the use of hashtags such as #StaySafe or #StayAtHome for example, this is the case for brands such Tiffany & Co, Cartier, Burberry and Hermes. 

A lot of these luxury brands’ pillars remain very focused on communicating an aspirational way of living, product launches and collection information, travel, celebrity endorsements, references to art and creativity, craftsmanship and heritage which remains very true to the rules of luxury communication. And even though some of these companies have been active outside of social media by providing protective gear to healthcare workers, repurposing ateliers to produce and deliver surgical face masks, funding research and donating to charities, this information isn’t shared to a great extent on Instagram. 

Other brands have been taking a different and more pro-active approach. For example, Chanel has been inviting followers to join live on Instagram Stories #LivewithChanel for intimate live performances by selected artists. They have developed a playlist created by different ambassadors of the brand #TheSoundofCHANEL and have promoted beauty routines through the #MademoiselleStaysHome, a series of posts on a workout exercise.

Gucci has by far been the most active brand, not just in terms of amount of posts but also the one that has taken higher risks in terms of content, posting images that are very different to the “normal” luxury aesthetics and imagery.  They have kept their consumers informed about their activities: providing health services with surgical masks; financial donations to support research and crowdfunding campaigns in Italy. Their focus on communication has been on creating a global community, asking everyone to be a changemaker and to stand together with their feed featuring official images and content from the World Health Organization to share information and help prevent the virus. Gucci has also taken an intimate and behind the scenes approach with the #GucciCommunity, choosing a series of artists with messages of empathy and well-being through creativity in photos and videos while at their own homes.

In line with contemporary lifestyles, the fashion apparel category is dominated by sportswear and athleisure brands Nike, Adidas, Lululemon, and Under Armour. The largest of these, Nike, has communicated a message of positivity and encouraged those living under lockdown to #PlayForTheWorld. In similar inclusive messaging Adidas encourages their #hometeam followers to engage with virtual events, home workouts and yoga practices, collaborating with brand ambassadors and celebrities in a strategy mirrored by Lululemon and Under Armour with their and “Move and Stay Connected” challenge and “UA Home Work”, respectively.  

Building a sense of community is a key driver for Levi’s new music events initiative 5.01 which streams musicians across genres to their followers as they are encouraged to “stay home stay connected”. 

For a brand like The North Face that celebrates the great outdoors, a lockdown poses real brand storytelling challenges which may explain why their COVID-19 related posts are relatively few, encouraging followers “Hang tight”, and enjoy archive film of outdoors adventurers whilst reminding them that “we’ll be back outside eventually”.

Other brands in the fashion apparel category that have limited COVID-19 related posts are fast fashion brands Zara and Uniqlo, reflecting the transactional relationships followers have with these brands. Similar to its fast fashion competitors H&M also continues to push product, but has adapted its marketing to reflect the COVID-19 crisis. By using pre-shot campaign images and applying ironic captions for their #HMatHome posts, they acknowledge the new normal for many of their followers. Their use of humour has become more prevalent over the weeks; a post promoting a banana-print dress is captioned “a banana dress for when you’re baking banana bread”.

In common with other brands in the fashion apparel category Ralph Lauren is supporting COVID-19 initiatives through donations and these are communicated in posts that celebrate the courage and commitment of frontline workers. Another type of inspiration is provided for followers on lockdown at home, as #RLatHome reminding followers of the comfort of family and home and encourages distraction through reading lists, recipes and crafting tips.

Based on our analysis beauty brands seem to mainly respond to the pandemic by posting personal, positive and supportive messages on health, self-care, mindfulness, relationships, reasons to be thankful, showing kindness and solidarity. Brands such as Yves Rocher and The Body Shop reinforcing the message #timetocare, have been supporting health workers practitioners and communities in need in various ways including supporting communities, donations of products and gift bags. In line with its MAC Viva Glam giving model, MAC cosmetics formed the Viva Glam 100% Giving Campaign using the hashtag #MACKissOfGratitude to help communities affected by COVID-19.  At the same time, beauty brands are also engaging with consumers by posting questions and encouraging interaction and dialogue.

As with the other categories, we observe that not all the brands responded to the same extent. Some brands (such as Rude Cosmetics and Anastasia Beverly Hills) showed very limited acknowledgment of the pandemic while others (such as Bliss and Foreo) engaged extensively. We have also noticed that several brands are taking advantage of the fact that consumers are working from home and spending more time indoors, having online dates and meetings in order to push and promote beauty products. In these cases, brands like Olaplex and Foreo promote the message #selfcare #selflove #stayathome #weareinthistogether but also #spaathome #facialathome #athomehaircare. Interestingly, there are other brands (such as Maybelline) that while promoting beauty products, still take a more human and caring approach by regularly posting practical advice on how to support and protect each other and ourselves (mentally and physically) during isolation touching sensitive issues such as domestic violence pushing the message #isolatednotalone.

In sum, brands have had to find creative ways of reaching and engaging with their consumers as they see themselves deprived of physical channels. More than just using hashtags that acknowledge the moment and help spread positivity, some of the brands included in our research have developed innovative ways of connecting with their followers and supporting their communities, through health and well-being advice, offering insights into the brands’ behind-the-scenes life or showcased their employees and ambassadors at home, engaging with content that is both entertaining and educational.

Brands need to question how they want to be remembered and how they will take consumers with them on this journey.

We have a joint opportunity to reset the fashion system, rethink how we do business and help build a more futureproof industry. The systemic shift we are witnessing will remain with consumers for decades to come. Brands need to question how they want to be remembered and how they will take consumers with them on this journey, where digital will play an even bigger part. 

Purpose beyond presence should be the core of a company by showcasing the beneficial impact they want to have in the world.

An authentic purpose needs to align with fashion’s “new normal” to ensure credibility from employees, consumers and society alike. We all need to push for a system where we no longer discuss B2B or B2C but B4H – Brands for Humans. 

Fashion Research Open Talks #1, Thursday 14th May at 3 pm (BST)

In this panel discussion fashion academics share their analysis of brands’ communication strategies across the luxury, apparel and beauty sectors.