Grace Dent on restaurants
OshPaz, London W1: ‘Who doesn’t love a dumpling?’ – restaurant review
Few people in the UK know much about Uzbek lag-man, flaky samsy pastries and cream-drenched manty
Tollington’s, London N4: ‘Hands down the greatest chips I’ve ever eaten’ – restaurant review
All the punch of a 1970s trip to Scarborough with Ferran Adrià in charge of the ketchup
Albert’s Schloss, London W1: ‘A stroke of genius’ – restaurant review
It’s really much, much better than it needs to be, especially this close to Leicester Square
The Counter, Tunbridge Wells, Kent: ‘It treats my inner Veruca Salt with pure imagination’ – restaurant review
I’m a sucker for any tasting menu that bombards the guest with sweetness at the end
Chez Roux, London W1: ‘Posh comfort food for the weary, moneybags traveller’ – restaurant review
Michel Roux Jr has been at pains to say that he’s no longer chasing Michelin stars, but is that possibly a way to manage expectations?
Cloth, London EC1: ‘It’s really quite special’ – restaurant review
Comfort food made with the finest ingredients and cooked with largesse
Assaggini, Glasgow G12: ‘Until now, I thought “bad pizza” was a contradiction’ – restaurant review
There’s a dramatic dichotomy between the restaurant this wants to be and the joint they’re actually running
Dipna Anand Kitchen & Bar, Milton Keynes: ‘Thoughtful cooking that is determined to incapacitate you’ – restaurant review
Rich, delicious food in an elegant, charming space – hidden inside a futuristic block that looks like the set of The Office
July, London W1: ‘A sort of M&S meal deal for Coutts cardholders’ – restaurant review
A restaurant that exists only in the minds of its owners
Roe, London E14: ‘Kind of mad, but also sheer bloody genius’ – restaurant review
Massive, assertive flavours in a hulking football pitch of a restaurant
Brett, Glasgow G4: ‘Comfort food with the chef’s foot fully on the gas’ – restaurant review
Very possibly Glasgow’s best restaurant
Oma, London SE1: ‘Very difficult to resist’ – restaurant review
Who’d have thought that a nerdish but relaxed space age taverna would turn out to be one of the openings of the year?
Apple Butter Cafe, London W1: ‘Food to make a diabetes doctor sigh anxiously’ – restaurant review
When the world isn’t particularly sweet, sometimes we all need a sharp blast of teeth-chattering, sugary goo …
Poppies, London W11: ‘It’s fine, but only fine’ – restaurant review
If the Italians sitting near me looked confused at their pricey plates of sepia stodge, I can’t blame them
Sekkoya, Canterbury, Kent: ‘A prime example of why the term “pan-Asian” fills me with foreboding’ – restaurant review
This is the sort of food invented for British people that you’d have got at a Cantonese restaurant back in 1994
Arlington, London SW1: ‘It’s for spoilt, grown-up babies’ – restaurant review
Jerry Hall’s next husband could manage almost the whole menu without putting in teeth
Morchella, London EC1: ‘Decadent, surprising, weird and usually triumphant’ – restaurant review
The chefs care so much about the exact positioning of the vitello tonnato, it’s physically painful
Dream Xi’an, London EC3: ‘I challenge you to find a nicer way to spend a couple of hours near the Tower of London’ – restaurant review
I have yet to leave any of Guirong Wei’s places not delightedly flecked with umami, sweet, hot and vinegary sauces
The Shed, Swansea: ‘A place to eat every mooing, baa-ing tasty thing’ - restaurant review
This is essentially 16 years of the chef’s homesickness for Wales on a plate, complete with a laverbread garnish
Pearly Queen, London E1: ‘There will be things you’ve never eaten elsewhere’ – restaurant review
There is two Michelin star-level ingenuity going on here, even when they’re only slinging oysters in the deep-fat fryer or doling out bread
About 302 results for Grace Dent on restaurants 
