Please use another browser such as Chrome, Edge, Firefox, or Safari for the best experience

Skip to content Apertura AD8 Flash Sale

Accessories

×

Top Astrophotography Accessories of 2024

The world of astrophotography continues to expand, thus comes new and innovative gear to explore. To help keep you up-to-date on what’s trending, we have compiled a list of some of the best astrophotography accessories on the market today! Check out our article Top Astrophotography Accessories of 2024 for a closer look at what some of the best buys for upgrading your astrophotography rig!





Focusing Needs Card

As with all types of photography, focusing is vital in achieving quality images. Though, when it comes to astrophotography, it’s a whole new ball game. Low light constraints, seeing conditions, high focal length image wobble, and even your optics themselves can hinder your ability to know when you’ve reached ideal focus. But there are solutions available to help you achieve perfect, pin point stars that are sure to impress!


Focus Masks

The simplest focusing aid is the focus mask. These accessories were developed in 2005 by amateur astrophotographer, Pavel Bahtinov and have been helping astroimagers achieve sharp stars within their frames ever since! They can be made from a wide variety of materials, making them extremely cost-effective and accessible.

So, how do they work? Designed with a specific pattern, these accessories produce special diffraction spikes over the stars within your field of view. These spikes arrange themselves based on the current focus position of your telescope and help you denote whether your telescope is in focus or not. Once the middle spike is perfectly centered within the other two spikes, you know you have reached optimal focus! When using a focus mask, it’s best practice to perform your focusing routine on a bright star to help better discern the position of the spikes.

It is worth noting there are different types of masks that use the same principle with different patterns, but the Bahtinov is by far the most common.

Bahtinov Mask diffraction spikes

To use a Bahtinov mask, a few simple steps ensue:

  • First, slew to a bright star.
  • Next, find rough focus.
  • Place the mask over your telescope's aperture, ensuring it's secure and centered.
  • Adjust your focusing knob until the center diffraction spike is directly in the middle of the other two, creating a singular convergence over the star.

An Apertura bright focus mask

When using a Bahtinov mask, the brightness and sharpness are determined by the pattern and how it interacts with your particular telescope's specifications. This means that while just about any mask that fits your telescope will work, some masks work better than others. In our article, Building a Better Focus Mask, we take a look at how the Apertura Bright Focus Mask line is designed to address this concern!

Looking to dial in your focus? Click below and check out our focus mask catalog!

A stack of Apertura bright focus masks

EAFs

The ZWO Electronic Automatic Focuser is the most popular electronic focuser, and so the term “EAF” has become a common term for all accessories of this type. However, it is far from the first or only device in this category with other electronic focusers/ focus motors available. These devices often replace other focusing tools/methods; however, they don’t have to and can instead be used to supplement existing processes.

While there are a few different designs out there, the principle of all of these devices is the same: replacing the existing manual focus knob with a motor (covered in more detail in our Measuring Your Telescope for an Electronic Focuser guide). These motors are high-precision steppers, providing two main benefits. First, these motors are capable of incredibly small movements that allow more fine focusing tuning than even the excellent dual-speed manual focusers. This means that even if you’re not interested in auto-focus or remote focusing, systems like the ZWO Advanced Electronic Automatic Focuser - 5V USB Version w/ Hand Controller and Sensor and Celestron Focus Motor for SCT, EdgeHD & RASA that come with, or offer compatibility with, a hand controller still can improve upon your stock focusing experience. The second benefit of these systems is their ability to track how much the focuser has moved, referred to as how many “steps” have been taken. When paired with a PC or WiFi camera control system and dedicated astronomy software, this allows you to easily find a rough focus point one night, completely collapse the focuser, and then precisely move back to that point on subsequent nights!

ZWO EAF

These are the building blocks for the most impressive feature of these EAFs: auto-focus! As mentioned, these can act as a supplement instead of a replacement, allowing you to precisely focus by eye or with a focus mask without jostling the telescope. However, these really shine when combined with modern astronomy imaging programs or WiFi camera controllers. When the electronic focuser and a camera are connected to these programs/devices, a reading is taken of the stars the camera is seeing. The focuser is then moved a precise distance, another reading is taken, the focuser is moved again, another reading is taken, etc., until enough readings have been taken to for an auto-focus algorithm to determine the best position for focus. The electronic focuser is then sent to that position, and you’re ready to image! This is run before starting an imaging session, but many programs allow this to be done completely automatically when certain conditions are met, allowing for hands-off temperature compensation, filter focus calibration, or just time-based recalibration options.

Interested in adding precision electronic focus to your telescope? Click below to explore all the excellent electronic focuser options we offer!

Various electronic focusers

Filter Needs

Imaging filters are one of the most important tools an astrophotographer can have in their toolkit. Some supporting accessories help you hone in on celestial targets and spend more time collecting data to separate these stellar objects from light pollution and noise. Filters improve your images by preventing unwanted light from reaching your sensor in the first place! These light blocking capabilities are invaluable to one-shot-color and monochrome imagers alike, providing everything from mild filtering to cut light pollution in color images, to extreme isolation of select colors/wavelengths for creating color palette images from mono shots. With such a wide spread of not just filters, but also filter accessories, we know how overwhelming it can be trying to find the right upgrades. Which why we’ve created the crash-course below that quickly will demystify this vast category and have you imaging like a pro in no time!

Types of Filters

As we’ve mentioned, there is a wide variety of filters on the market today. In our article, How to Read a Filter Transmission Chart and Choose a Filter, we walk through reading the transmission charts provided by the manufacturer and cover some of the common types in detail. However, here are the “need-to-knows” on the most common filter categories:

Baader LRGB filter set

LRGB
This isn’t a single filter type but rather refers to a set of Red, Green, Blue, and Luminance filters. These are used with monochrome cameras to collect all of the color data a one-shot-color camera “sees” by default. While this requires multiple frames (one through each filter) to construct a color image, the end results are often well worth the additional effort! If you’re wondering “Why add a luminance filter? Isn’t an image just red, green, and blue?” you are technically correct; you don’t need a luminance filter. However, it is the final piece that makes the image details really pop. As a result, you will sometimes see astrophotographers substitute the luminance filter with another filter (or simply add it alongside it), such as an H-alpha, to fine tune the emphasized details for different conditions or targets.

Optolong L-Pro filter

Light Pollution
In this day and age, it is just about guaranteed that you’ll be imaging through some amount of light pollution. Light pollution filters reduce the amount of light pollution that reaches your sensor, providing a boost to fine detail and contrast, but you’re probably wondering, just how do they “turn down” light pollution levels? By identifying wavelengths most important to capturing celestial targets and wavelengths common to light pollution sources like skyglow and city lights, manufacturers create complex filtering profiles that attempt to isolate the light we’re interested in from the detrimental light. This comes at a bit of a cost. The more light you block, the less “natural” certain targets can appear given there is some overlap between the actual signal and light pollution. For this reason, manufacturers offer a variety of filters to cover different filtering “aggression” needs/wants. Mild filtering options suitable for broadband targets include "moon and sky glow" filters and options like the Optolong L-Pro, with more aggressive options including CLS (City Light Suppression) and UHC (Ultra High Contrast) filters that are better suited for narrowband targets.

Askar ColorMagic D2 filter set

Narrowband
While broadband targets, like galaxies, emit light over a wide portion of the light spectrum, nebulae primarily transmit on just a few slices of it. These slices come from excitation of the gasses that make up these objects and are primarily: H-alpha (Ha), OIII, and SII. Narrowband filters focus on just these thin slices of the spectrum, thus providing maximum isolation of, and consequently maximum detail and contrast on, these deep sky targets. This can take the form of quad band filters which target H-beta in addition to Ha/OIII/SII, dual/duo band that filters the two most prevalent wavelengths (Ha/OIII), or filters that target just one wavelength. The latter is often used with monochrome cameras to create color images in multi-filter images, where the Ha/OIII/SII wavelengths are assigned a color to form a “pallet” like the famous SHO pallet used in the Hubble telescope’s images. The wavelengths we’re after here are very specific, so more precisely you can focus the better! This precision is referred to as the “bandpass”, a measure the range of wavelengths allowed through the filter in nm, with a smaller number being more precise.

ZWO UV/IR cut filter

UV/IR
These filters cut out UV and IR light, and sometimes are referred to as a Luminance filter. This is the same luminance filter from the LRGB set outlined above! Outside of their use in those multi-filter imaging scenarios however, these filters are used when imaging broadband targets with cameras sensitive to the UV and/or IR spectrums. These cameras include some dedicated astronomy cameras and modified DSLRs, where this extra sensitivity is helpful for capturing things like Ha data that pushes into the IR but detrimental to creating natural looking full color images.

Filter Drawers

ZWO M42 Gen 2 filter drawer

When it comes to adding filters to your imaging train, you may already have a solution included with your telescope or corrective element: a filter cell. These are great for getting started as they don’t cost anything and make spacing everything out simple. But they do come with one drawback: if you want to change the filter, you will need to disassemble part of the imaging train. This can be hassle in a number of scenarios, like when the results from the filter installed aren’t what you are hoping for and you want to switch to another (or to no) filter or when trying to create an LRGB or SHO color pallet image with a monochrome camera. Taking things apart and keeping them clean outside, at night, is no small task.

That is where a filter drawer comes in! These helpful accessories are installed between the telescope and camera and provide a way to quickly swap filters in and out. This is done by removing a “drawer,” sometimes also called a “slider” or “holder,” from the housing of the accessory. This drawer holds the actual filter, allowing you to easily swap in a different one and then drop the drawer back into the main housing where it locks back into place (usually with magnets). This minimizes the amount of time your imaging train is open to dust as well as exposing a smaller area, meaning you are much less likely to have to contend with that headache out in the field. To make filter changes even quicker and reduce the risk you’ll touch and smudge a filter, manufacturers also offer extra filter drawers like the ZWO 2" Filter Holder (Gen 2) for ZWO Nikon, EOS, and Gen 2 M54 and M42 Filter Drawers that work with the popular Gen 2 M42 x 0.75 Filter Drawer for 2" Filters and other ZWO filter drawer ecosystem products, allowing you to load up all your favorite filters or a whole color pallet in advance!

Filter Wheels

ZWO 7 position 2 inch filter wheel

Filter wheels take the filter swapping ease and dust protection of filter drawers even further! These accessories are placed between the telescope and camera just like a filter drawer; however, like filter cells, you are meant to load up filters in advance. This is done by filling up an internal wheel/carousel which rotates your filter of choice in front of the window through the accessory. While this does require a bit more planning for your night compared to a filter drawer, with 5 and 7 position filter wheels like the ZWO 5 Position Electronic Filter Wheel for 2" Filters and 7 Position Electronic Filter Wheel for 2" Filters options being the standard capacity, you likely won’t find you need to do this all that often (if ever).

This design allows you to change filters in the field without needing to open up the imaging train at all, meaning no risk of dust, humidity, or smudges making their way to your filters! This switching is done electronically. Simply connect the wheel to your computer or WiFi camera controller, and most all popular wheels and imaging suites/devices will be able to communicate with the accessory via ASCOM or INDI. This is a great feature for remote control, allowing you to swap in a different filter from your command center. It also opens up automation possibilities with most popular imaging programs supporting filter change scheduling, allowing you to for instance collect a full set of Ha, OIII, and SII data without needing to babysit the imaging rig for filter changes.

Enhance your astrohphotography rig's view into the night sky with our catalog of imaging filters and filter holders/wheels!

Guiding Needs

Autoguiding is a way to correct for polar misalignment, imperfect mechanical movement, etc., essentially compensating for less than optimal tracking which causes star trails and a shift in framing. This is done by feeding images of the night sky into an autoguiding program, which then monitors a star or stars, and sends corrections to the mount when these stars begin to drift. While it may seem unnecessary to employ this technique with modern periodic error correction and polar alignment tools, the reality is that it is hard to reach the level of precision needed to push exposure times and focal lengths.

To autoguide, you will need a few things: autoguiding software, a connection from that program to your mount, a dedicated guide camera to feed into that software, and a way to provide that camera a view of the night sky! That’s where the accessories in this section come in; so for more info on how to open a window into the night sky for your autoguide setup, read on below!

Guidescopes

A guidescope is a secondary telescope attached to your main telescope, where a second camera is then attached to provide a view into the night sky for your autoguiding program. This setup has the benefit of being fairly straightforward to add to an imaging system, as most guidescopes fit in a standard findershoe making attaching them and pointing them just as simple as adding a visual finder. Being independent of the main imaging system, it is easy to find guidestars and fine tune focus on this type of guide solution as well.

Here are some things to consider when choosing a guidescope:

  • The focal length of the guidescope: a good guideline is to have your guidescope’s focal length be no less than 1/3 of your main telescope’s focal length.
  • The guidescope’s aperture: the larger the aperture, the more stars will be resolved.
  • The guidescope’s weight: you do not want to overload your telescope mount’s payload capacity.
  • How it will mount onto your main telescope: ensure the mounting dovetail and findershoe are compatible.

The size and features of guidescopes varies, but some of the most common classes are the 30mm/mini guidescope and the 50-60mm guidescope. Some of the best examples of these can be seen with the Apertura 32 mm Guide Scope and the Askar 52mm f/4 Guide Scope for their quality optics, easy to install design, and fine focus capabilities.

The Apertura red 32mm guidescope

Browse our collection of guidescopes here at High Point Scientific by clicking below!

Various guidescopes

Off-Axis Guiders

An Off-Axis Guider, or OAG, is a guiding solution integrated directly into the imaging train, sitting between the telescope and main imaging camera. This accessory places a small prism right at the edge of the light cone being formed by the optics, which redirects some of this light off-axis and out to a secondary camera. As this image is from the same optics the main imaging camera is looking through, this has a number of advantages. You only need to focus one scope after the OAG is setup, there is no chance of misalignment between the optics the guide camera and imaging camera that could impact guiding, and the larger aperture provided by the main camera provides more signal and resolution for guide stars.


The ZWO OAG

There are some things to consider before selecting an OAG for your imaging setup. First, as the OAG goes in-between the telescope and your imaging camera, it does need to replace some of the spacers. So, consider the spacing and connections you have. Additionally, if you have a filter cell in front of the OAG, this may impact your ability to guide. So, consider removing this or using a filter drawer/wheel that moves the filter behind the OAG. Once in place you will also need to properly set your secondary camera so that it is in focus at the same time as the main camera. This is done by taking the backfocal distance of your telescope, subtracting the distance from the back of the scope to the OAG prism, and subtracting the native backfocus of the camera, which will give you the distance the front of the secondary camera needs to be from prism. Finally, once setup and in use, you likely will need to rotate the OAG (which most have a provision for) to place the prism in a spot out of the way of the imaging sensor but still provides a star or stars to use for guiding.

Ready to find an OAG? Check out our selection of Off-Axis Guiders available here at High Point Scientific. You're sure to find the perfect guiding solution for your imaging rig!

Various OAGs

Corrective Elements

When it comes to astrophotography, some optical designs are better suited for the task than others (see our article, No Fuss Astrophotography Telescopes for Beginners, for some imaging-optimized scopes) and this is where corrective elements come in. These optical accessories optimize your telescope for crisp corner-to-corner views, expand your window into the universe, or sometimes both! Read on to learn about the three main types of corrective elements below.

The Problem: Field Curvature

Common with refractors, this type of optical aberration occurs when an optical design forms a focused image not on a curved plane. This means that an image focused in the center can start to soften and distort towards the edges as the focused plane curves away. Depending on the size of your imaging sensor and the size of the focus ‘sweet spot’ where curvature is minimal, you may not notice this. This is why correction becomes more and more important as sensor sizes increase to APS-C and Full-Frame, which cover a significant area.

An image demonstrating field curvature

The Solution: Field Flattener

A field flattener takes the curved plane of focus the optics originally forms and flattens it out. The additional optics in these accessories are often tailored to correct for a specific telescope or handful of telescope’s optical aberrations. This allows them to provide the best correction for your telescope but does mean your correction choices are generally limited. These accessories increase the flat focus area, but there are still limits. Be sure to check the image circle specifications. With these caveats out of the way, a field flattener is a must have accessory if you’re chasing corner-to-corner sharpness!

Apertura 90APO reducing field flattener

The Problem: Coma

Coma is common with some reflector optical designs, most notably Newtonians. With these designs, off-axis light is distorted with points of light like stars becoming “\comet shaped. As with field curvature, this effect will be absent in the center of your frame only appearing as you move further away towards the corners of your image. Also like field curvature, if the coma is less severe and your sensor is small, this effect may be subtle/unnoticeable; however, with larger sensors becoming common, this is something you likely will need to correct.

An image demonstrating coma

The Solution: Coma Corrector

Coma correctors focus off-axis light properly, “correcting” the distortion initially added by the optics. This allows you to have a larger usable area for imaging, and therefore, can allow for larger sensors/less cropping. However, like with field flattener, these corrective elements have limits. Be sure to check the corrected image circle provided by your corrector of choice. Coma correctors can be telescope specific; however, there are more general options available, usually designed for a certain focal ratio or range of focal ratios.

Apertura Photographic Reducing Coma Corrector

The Problem: Field of View

Unlike the first two issues corrective elements seek to solve, a telescope’s field of view isn’t a defect but it still can be something inherent to the scope’s optics that users seek to overcome. When the combination of your telescope and camera provide a framing that is too “close” for a target, cutting off sections that you’re looking to capture, without accessories your options are constrained to creating a mosaic or switching to an entirely different telescope/camera.

A pair of Celestron EclipSmart Solar Eclipse Glasses

The Solution: Focal Reducer

A focal reducer widens your field of view by reducing the effective focal ratio. For example, a 0.5x reducer would effectively make an f/8 telescope an f/4 scope (8 x 0.5 = 4). This is done by concentrating the light from the optics over a smaller area, providing a wider and brighter image which would be equivalent to imaging with a “faster” telescope. This concentration of signal does result in a smaller image circle which is why very aggressive focal reducers are uncommon. Focal reducers do provide some correction, hence their inclusion here, but often times, you will find these combined with field flatteners or coma correctors.

Celestron 0.7 focal reducer for 9.25 EdgeHD SCT


Smartphone Adapters

Wanting to turn your smartphone into an astrophotography camera? We have you covered! By securing your smartphone to your eyepiece, you can capture the outstanding views your telescope produces and share it with friends and family. Optimal for for taking stunning images of the Moon, be impressed by the level of detail within the craters, mountains, and maria found on the lunar surface. Also, depending on your telescope and smartphone, you may also be able to capture our other celestial neighbors such as Jupiter, its Galilean Moons, Saturn, Mars, and more.

These accessories make for an easy and fun astronomy experience, allow you to capture your favorite celestial objects in a snap, and are a great introduction into the wonderful world of astrophotography! The Apertura Smartphone Astrophotography Adapter, for instance, easily attaches to your 1.25” eyepiece, and comes with intuitive adjustment knobs that makes aligning your camera with your eyepiece a breeze. Browse our selection of smartphone adapters by clicking here.




Hyperstar

The Celestron RASA telescopes are some of the absolute fastest telescopes available today, with an incredible f/2 optical design that provide an incredible amount of signal in a short time. While this excellent performance is inherent to the RASA design, it is not exclusive to it. That’s where theStarizona Hyperstar comes in, turning Celestron 6”-14” SCTs and EdgeHD SCTs into an instrument that rivals RASA speed! Better yet, this accessory does not require any permanent telescope modification, meaning your scope can still be used in a standard observing/imaging configuration.

Starizona Hyperstar for 9.25

Starizona states the Hyperstar will transform your SCT into a scope that is up to 28 times faster, resulting in an effective focal ratio in the f/1.9 to f/2.3 range, depending on the host telescope. They claim this is the equivalent of capturing 25 minutes of stock exposure in 60 seconds. How is such an incredible increase in speed possible? This comes down to the design of Celestron SCTs, which already feature a fast primary mirror but reduce this speed significantly with the secondary mirror. Starizona replaces the secondary mirror with the Hyperstar optical system, which corrects aberrations without notably slowing down the system. As with a RASA, this accessory places the camera in front of the corrector plate. Since the secondary mirror is simple to remove and reinstall on both non-EdgeHD and EdgeHD SCTs, this conversion is fairly quick and doesn’t require any modification of the host telescope, meaning your telescope can still be used for long focal length imaging and visual observing unlike a RASA.

Close up of Starizona Hyperstar for C8 SCTs

Ready to find the right optical accessories for you? Well, you're in luck! Simply click the image below and begin the journey.

Various Hyperstar models

Spacers & Adapters

With the plethora of different telescopes, corrective optics, cameras, and all the other accessories we’ve touched on already, there is a wide variety of connections and spacings with which to contend. This is where adapters and spacers come in, allowing you to bring your unique combination of accessories together in one imaging train!

While backfocus is not critical with all telescopes, the majority of telescopes and corrective elements do require your camera to be a set distance for best results. This is where spacers come in, setting up the distance between the back of your optics and your camera/accessories. For example, if your field flattener needs 55 mm of backfocus, your camera has 17.5 mm of space from where it connects to the sensor and your filter drawer is 21 mm thick, you would use a 16.5 mm spacer to take up the remaining distance to set your sensor the correct distance away.

Space is just one half of the equation, however, as telescopes, corrective elements, imaging train accessories, and cameras come with a variety of connection sizes/types. Adapters bridge this gap between components, allowing you to make everything from simple connections like M42 to M48 to more unique adaptations such as a DSLR camera mount to M48 or Celestron SCT thread to M42.

The Apertura SCT T-Adapter

Most common types of spacers/adapters you’ll come across:

  • M42/T2
  • M48
  • T-Ring
  • T-Adapter
  • Nosepiece (1.25” or 2”)
  • M54

To help you understand the complex world of attaching a camera to a telescope, our team of gear experts have created an in-depth article on exactly how to do so! Check out our How to Connect a Camera to a Telescope guide!

Ready to build your ultimate imaging train? Click below to find the spacers and adapters you'll need!

Various adapters and spacers


Camera Rotators

While threaded connections are great for locking your gear in place, sometimes this can make things a bit tricky—particularly framing up objects. Once everything is rotated in place, your window into the night sky is set; so if an object is cut off or not facing the direction you want, there isn’t much you can do outside of taking a mosaic and cropping in later. That is unless you have a camera rotator! These accessories allow you to thread your imaging train together, but lock/unlock its rotation in the field. You can adjust your camera’s rotation to try and bring the edges of an object into your frame, give it a more pleasing framing, or try and cut down on the number of overlapping panels that are needed for mosaics. These are becoming more common in refractors, but at this time, this is still something you may need to add-in with an accessory.

Though these are most commonly used with “rotation locked” imaging trains, some find these helpful for imaging trains with compression fittings as a rotator provides smooth and controlled rotation without the possibility of changing spacing or adding tilt.

Motorized camera rotators are a handy variation on the classic camera rotator and adjust framing very precisely, electronically, and, if your rig is set up for it, remotely. This is especially helpful for remote observatories where you’ll be unable to make any changes “in-the-moment,” but also when used with the automation tools in modern software suites which allow you to select the framing you want in advance and then have the software match that once imaging begins.

Pegasus Astro Falcon Rotator

Benefits of a Camera Rotator:

  • Helps you find the perfect framing
  • Makes creating mosaics much easier
  • Allows you to find the optimal guide star(s) when using an OAG

Interested in improving your image framing experience? Then click below to explore our full camera rotator catalog!

Apertura M56 Camera Rotator

EQ Wedges

Looking to take your love of astronomy to the next level? The addition of an EQ wedge helps you transform your star tracker or Celestron fork arm Alt-Az mount into a powerful tool for astrophotography. These accessories are great for those just getting started in the hobby and are looking to upgrade their current visual setup for imaging. By introducing the ability to align your mount with Earth’s celestial poles, the issue of field rotation is eliminated, and stars will be pin point as you track the sky.

So, what are the steps that entail when using an EQ wedge?

  • First, mount the wedge to your tripod.
  • Next, attach your telescope mount or star tracker to the wedge.
  • Adjust the angle of the wedge for your specific location’s latitude.
  • Finally, polar align your mount, and you’re all set!

Here at High Point Scientific, we have two types of wedges available: latitude bases for star trackers and equatorial wedges for Celestron computerized telescopes. This Celestron Equatorial Wedge, for instance, allows those with NexStar 6/8 SE or NexStar Evolution computerized telescopes to utilize these powerful setups for astrophotography!

The Celestron EQ Wedge for 6/8 SE Evolutions

EQ wedges are a great stepping stone for those wanting to dabble in the world of astrophotography. Check out our selection of EQ wedges we carry here at High Point Scientific!

Celestron telescope mounted on an EQ wedge


Accessory FAQ: What You Need to Know

With the plethora of accessories available for astrophotography, you may have some questions, such as “Which guidescope should I choose?” or “How do I connect my camera to my telescope?” With this in mind, we have compiled a list of the most frequently asked questions and organized them based on accessory type. To get the answer to these questions in addition to plenty more, click below!

Reducers Field Flatteners Coma Correctors HyperStar Guidescopes EQ Wedges Filters

Fillter Wheels / Holders Smartphone Adapters Adapters & Spacers Focusing Aids

Reducer FAQs

How Do Focal Reducers Work?

To understand how a reducer works, it’s important to first understand that the native focal length of a telescope is the physical distance between the telescope’s primary mirror or lens and the location in which the incoming light becomes focused. The addition of a focal reducer shortens this distance by concentrating the light rays, forcing them to come to focus at a different point. By shortening this distance, the focal length is then reduced, and a wider field of view is achieved.

Focal reducer, what is the benefit in terms of time?

By shortening the focal length and retaining the telescope’s aperture, the focal ratio is therefore lowered. With a lower focal ratio, the pixels of your camera become saturated in a much shorter amount of time. To put this into perspective, a 30 second exposure with an f/10 telescope paired with a 0.5x focal reducer is equivalent in brightness to an exposure of 2 minutes when utilizing the telescope’s native focal ratio!

What does a focal reducer reduce?

Focal reducers were designed to shorten the distance between the primary mirror / lens and the region where the light rays come into focus. By doing so, the focal length of your telescope is reduced. Not only this, but by reducing your focal length, the focal ratio is lowered as a well!

How do focal reducers affect image quality?

In general, a focal reducer will improve the overall quality of your images. This is due to the fact that while the focal length is shortened, the aperture remains the same, resulting in a faster focal ratio. This provides brighter images, and more detail captured in less amount of time.

What does a focal reducer do?

A focal reducer’s main job is to shorten your telescope’s focal length. For instance, the Apertura 75Q Refractor has a native focal length of 405 mm, and the addition of the 0.75x reducer results in an apparent focal length of 303 mm. This provides a wider field of view within the captured frames. As a result of the focal length alteration, the focal ratio is decreased as well. With a lower focal ratio, projects can be completed in a a more timely manner. These optical accessories are highly beneficial for those looking to increase their imaging opportunities without having to purchase an entirely new telescope.

Why do I need a focal reducer?

If you have a long focal length telescope and you’re wanting to capture large objects without having to go through the hassle of creating a mosaic, a focal reducer is a wonderful solution! These accessories widen your field of view, allowing you to collect more of the sky within a single image. Or, perhaps you are wanting to complete projects within a shorter time period. Focal reducers are ideal for this as well. By lowering your focal length, your focal ratio is also decreased, allowing for faster light collection. These accessories are great for those who have limited clear skies and need to collect light as quickly as possible.

Focal Reducer for my SCT- Are they worth buying?

The addition of a focal reducer for your Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope has many benefits. For one, it increases your imaging opportunities by lowering the focal length — essentially giving you two telescopes in one! Utilize the native focal length for small targets, or pop on the reducer to image vast nebula. Also, reducers bring the already incredible light gathering ability of SCTs to the next level by decreasing the focal ratio. This allows for faster pixel saturation and speedier project completion -- something especially useful in regions where clear skies are limited. Overall, these accessories are great options for those wanting to expand the possibilities of their Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope. Check out our selection of reducers by clicking here.

Are focal reducers expensive?

Determining if something is “expensive” is highly dependent on personal circumstances, therefore it’s difficult to deduce if a reducer is expensive for you individually. It’s important to remember, however, that since reducers are composed of glass elements, with an increase in glass quality, typically comes an increase in price. It’s also important to note that reducers are generally designed with one telescope in mind, and have similar glass properties that uphold image quality. Purchasing this specific reducer helps give you peace of mind knowing that your images will be as sharp as possible.

Who makes focal reducers?

Focal reducers are generally designed for one specific telescope, therefore a wide range of manufacturers produce these accessories. Brands like Apertura, Celestron, Askar, and plenty more, have reducers available imaging Newtonians, Schmidt-Cassegrains, and refractors. Click here to browse the extensive assortment of focal reducers we carry here at High Point Scientific!

Is a focal reducer compatible with my telescope?

Focal reducers are designed for a wide variety of telescopes, though are typically produced with one telescope or telescope series in mind. To determine if your telescope is compatible with a focal reducer, it’s best to search for a reducer that’s specifically made for your telescope to ensure your images are of the utmost quality.



back to top image


Field Flattener FAQs

How do I attach a DSLR to field flattener?

Connecting a DSLR to a field flattener is a quick and simple process. First, you are going to want to attach a T-Ring to your DSLR. Check out our selection of T-Rings we carry here at High Point Scientific to find one for your specific DSLR. Next, screw in the T-Ring to your field flattener, and you’re all set! If the telescope side of your T-Ring does not match the connection of your field flattener, you may need an adapter ring. Click here to browse our collection of adapters. If you’re having trouble finding the right adapters, don’t hesitate to contact us. Or, check out our How to Connect a Camera to a Telescope article on our Astronomy Hub for a more in-depth look into this process.

What is field of view?

Your field of view is the amount of sky that is recorded by your camera. This region is usually measured in angular degrees. It’s important to note that every camera / telescope combination will yield a different field of view based on the camera’s sensor size and the telescope’s focal length. To calculate your field of view, take the width of your camera sensor and multiply it by 57.3. Next, take that product and divide it by the focal length of your telescope. This will give you the width of your field of view. For reference, the diameter of the Moon is 0.52 degrees.

Why do I need a flat field?

A flat field will provide you with the utmost image quality, as all of the stars within your field of view will be pin point and sharp. There will be no need to crop out any distortions around the edges of the frame, and you can take full advantage of your telescope’s field of view.

How does a field flattener work?

A field flattener works by correcting the incoming light for field curvature, the aberration that presents distorted stars around the edges of the frame. The addition of a field flattener will keep the stars within your entire field of view sharp and pin point. It’s important to keep in mind that these accessories are typically designed for utilization with one telescope or telescope series, therefore finding one manufactured for your specific telescope will yield the best results.

Are field flatteners and reducers the same thing?

Field flatteners and reducers are not the same thing, as field flatteners correct for field curvature, and reducers reduce your telescope’s focal length. However, it is common to find these two capabilities bundled into one device. By carefully designing the internal lens elements of these optical accessories, you can achieve a flat field and effectively reduce your focal length for a wider field of view all in one go.

How can a field flattener improve my images?

Field flatteners remove field curvature, the geometric mismatch between a curved image plane and a flat camera chip. By adding a field flattener to your set up, you can eliminate this aberration and enjoy sharp stars from corner to corner. This allows you to utilize your entire field of view without having to crop out any distorted stars around the edges of the frame. In order to achieve images of the utmost quality, these accessories are are seen as an essential component within your imaging train. Field flatteners are generally produced with one telescope in mind, and finding one for your specific telescope is a must. Check out our selection of field flatteners by clicking here.

Are field flatteners expensive?

As the term “expensive” is highly subjective, the answer to this question will depend on personal factors. Though it is important to remember that as field flatteners are composed of glass, generally, the higher the quality, the more costly they will become. To ensure that you are investing in a field flattener that will help you achieve images of the highest quality, it’s best practice to find one that is designed for your specific telescope. Need help finding the right field flattener for you? Check out our selection by clicking here, and don’t hesitate to contact us if you require further assistance!

Who makes field flatteners?

As field flatteners are typically designed with a singular telescope or telescope series in mind, numerous brands offer these accessories. Apertura, Askar, William Optics, and plenty more, have field flatteners available to help you achieve higher quality images. Ready to choose the right on for your set up? Browse our collection the field flatteners we carry here at High Point Scientific.



back to top image


Coma Corrector FAQs

What is coma?

Coma, or comatic aberration, is a type of optical aberration that presents the stars around the edges of the frame in an unfocused trailing manner. These stars appear to have “tails” like a comet, hence the name “coma.” Coma is an intrinsic property of reflector telescopes that house a parabolic mirror, and becomes more apparent with lower focal ratios and when utilizing larger camera sensors.

How can I correct coma?

Coma is easily fixed with the addition of a coma corrector. These optical accessories seamlessly thread into your imaging train, as they typically have the industry standard of 55 mm of required backfocal distance. By correcting the incoming rays of light, coma correctors deliver sharp, in-focus stars from corner to corner.

What does a coma corrector do and how does it work?

Coma correctors are designed to be added to your telescope's focuser, and are fitted with specialized glass elements that work together to redirect the incoming light rays. This redirection allows focus across the entire field of view, eliminating the off-axis distortions within the captured frames. As a result, coma is eradicated, and impressive images are at the ready!

Should I spend money on a coma corrector vs saving for a refractor?

The answer to this question will highly depend on what you plan to achieve in your astrophotography journey. If you’re satisfied with your current reflector telescope’s focal length, focal ratio, and overall performance, then purchasing a coma corrector may be your best bet. On the other hand, if you’re already yearning for a new field of view, focal ratio, or wanting the ease of use a refractor provides, it may be in your best interest to look into purchasing this type of telescope. Both telescope designs have their own benefits, and weighing the pros and cons of each will help you in reaching your astrophotography goals!

When do I know if I should get a better coma corrector?

If you’ve added a coma corrector to your imaging train, and you’re still having star distortions, it’s best to rule out any other aberrations it can be before purchasing a new coma corrector. If the stars around the edges of the frame appear to be unfocused, the issue may be due to improper backspacing. If the distortions are only on one side of the frame, tilt may be the cause. Distorted stars around the entire frame can be a result of miscollimation, or possibly even tracking/guiding issues. All-in-all, if the stars still have the "tails" that denote coma, then it's possible a new coma corrector is needed. Troubleshooting your gear will help uncover the reason behind these distortions, and help you determine what needs to be changed within your imaging train. If you’re still having issues with your gear, don’t hesitate to contact us, we’re happy to help!

Will I need a Coma Corrector?

If you’re imaging small targets that do not fill the frame, it may be possible to crop out the coma aberration seen around the edges of the image. However, in order to produce images of the highest quality, adding a coma corrector to your imaging train is your best bet. This is especially true of reflectors with lower focal ratios, as the lower the focal ratio, the more prevalent coma becomes. The addition of this accessory keeps the stars within your field of view pristine from corner to corner, allowing you to take full advantage of your telescope’s entire field of view.

Is a coma corrector also a flattener?

A coma corrector and a field flattener are two separate optical accessories that correct for two different types of aberration. Coma is a result of differing focal points around the edges of the frame, creating an overlap of unfocused stars in a trailing manner, whereas field curvature is the geometric mismatch of a flat camera chip and curved optical plane. While coma and field curvature may present themselves in a similar fashion, these two aberrations are in fact different, and therefore require a coma corrector or field flattener to correct them.

How necessary is coma corrector at f/5?

The answer to this question is going to depend on your camera’s sensor size, as well as what you plan to image. It’s important to note that the smaller the camera sensor, the less apparent coma will become based on the crop factor. Also, if you plan to image small targets such as planetary nebulae or galaxies, you can possibly get away with cropping around the edges of the frame, as the target will be centered and generally unaffected by coma. On the flip side of things, if you want to image vast nebulae that fill the field of view, and image with a large sensor camera, adding a coma corrector is the best way to achieve images of the highest quality.

Why are stars distorted when viewed through a telescope?

The reason that stars are distorted has to do with the inherent light-bending characteristics of optical systems. These distortions are called aberrations. Aberrations are common and easily fixed, as the addition of optical accessories help combat these distortions. For instance, if the stars within your frame appear as comet-shaped, known as coma, adding a coma corrector to your imaging train will straighten out these stars and help you achieve pristine images.

What coma corrector should I use for 1.25" focusers?

As of today, most reflector telescope used for astrophotography house 2” focusers. Because of this, the market for 1.25” coma correctors is not wide spread. If your telescope has a 1.25” focuser, upgrading your telescope’s focuser to a 2” focuser will be the most cost effective and efficient means of correcting coma.



back to top image


HyperStar FAQs

What is HyperStar Imaging?

HyperStar imaging is based on the innovative Fastar technology from Celestron. These devices replace the secondary mirror of Celestron Schmidt-Cassegrain or EdgeHD telescopes and allows your camera to sit in front of the telescope as opposed to behind the telescope. This results in a wider field of view, and significantly faster imaging! Starizona HyperStar accessories are compatible with a wide variety of cameras, including popular ZWO and QHY cameras. In order to ensure proper camera adaptation, each HyperStar is custom made, with camera specifications provided during check out. Ready to image at f/2? check out our HyperStar collection by clicking here!

What does a HyperStar do?

HyperStar is an accessory designed by Starizona which allows you to attach your camera in place of the secondary mirror. This significantly shortens your Celestron Schmidt-Cassegrain or EdgeHD telescope’s focal length and remarkably hastens your telescope’s light gathering speed. With the addition of a HyperStar device, the focal ratio is brought down to f/1.9-f/2.2 (depending on your telescope). Exposures of just seconds with the HyperStar are equivalent in brightness to those of 20+ minutes without it. Shorter exposures are much less demanding on your tracking system, and many who use the HyperStar choose to track unguided. These devices offer great versatility as well, essentially giving you two telescopes in one. Pop on the HyperStar for wide field nebulae imaging, or revert back to the native focal length to image small targets!

Is hyperStar on a C6 worth doing?

The HyperStar 6 v4 is an incredible option if you’re looking for a wider field of view and wickedly fast imaging capabilities. This accessory provides a much larger imaging area by bringing the native focal ratio of 1500 mm down to 300 mm. Larger targets can be captured within a single frame, omitting the need to create a mosaic. Also, enjoy imaging at f/2 — that’s 25x faster than the standard f/10 focal ratio! This means projects can be completed much quicker, something especially useful for those with limited clear skies.

HyperStar worth it on a C8?

If you’re in the market for wide field shots and fast imaging, the addition of a HyperStar accessory onto your C8 telescope is definitely worth it. This device brings the native focal length of 2032 mm down to 390 mm — that’s 5x wider! This is especially useful for imaging vast nebulae, as there is no need to plan a complicated mosaic. In addition to this, projects can be completed in a more timely manner, as the focal ratio is brought down from f/10 to f/1.9. To put this into perspective, a 13 minute exposure without the HyperStar is equivalent in brightness to a 30 second exposure with the HyperStar. Talk about time saving!

Can I use my ZWO camera with HyperStar?

ZWO cameras are a great options to pair with a Starizona HyperStar. There are a wide variety of cameras ZWO crafts, such as the ASI533MC Pro, the ASI2600 series, and plenty more, that will help you get the most out of your HyperStar and EdgeHD or SCT.



back to top image


Guidescope FAQs

What is a guidescope?

A guidescope is a small refractor that rides atop your main imaging scope and assists with autoguiding. These telescopes are paired with guide cameras to capture constant exposures of the night sky. These exposures are then analyzed by guiding software and tracking errors are alleviated, allowing for longer exposures.

Guiding Scope and Camera, What Works With What?

When it comes to autoguiding, finding the right guide camera and guide scope combination is essential in creating images of the highest quality. Before choosing autoguiding equipment, it’s important to take a look at the ratio between your main imaging system’s pixel scale and your prospective autoguiding system’s pixel scale. As a good rule of thumb, the pixel scale of your autoguiding system should not exceed 5x that of your main imaging system’s pixel scale. Need help determining your pixel scale? Use this handy formula: Pixel scale (in arc-seconds) = 206 * pixel size (in microns) / focal length (in millimeters). You can also utilize websites such as Astronomy.tools to help you find this resolution per pixel.

Can astrophotography be done without an autoguider?

Yes, astrophotography can be performed without an autoguiding setup, though this is usually reserved for those imaging with very fast focal ratios or those with mounts that track with exceptionally high precision. Even with the use of fast optics and high performance mounts, many would still argue that the benefits provided by autoguiding make it a must have addition to any astrophotography rig. With a guidescope and guide camera riding atop your imaging telescope, guiding software can determine the minute tracking errors of your telescope mount. Further communication with your mount fixes these errors for smoother, more precise tracking. This allows for much longer exposures, resulting in a higher signal to noise ratio and resolution of greater detail! Not only this, but autoguiding offers the ability to dither your images. This act of slightly altering your telescope’s pointing position eliminates walking noise during stacking, delivering images of even higher quality.

How do I Autoguide a Telescope for Deep-Sky Astrophotography?

To autoguide a telescope, you will need a guide camera, as well as a guidescope. This “mini rig” will ride atop your main imaging telescope. The next action is choosing a guiding software, with PHD2 being the most popular for PC, and the internal guiding software within the ASIAIR being a great choice for users of ZWO cameras. After proper calibration within your chosen software, the next step is to set your guide camera’s exposure rate to 2-3 seconds. These short exposures will then be analyzed by your guiding software, and will communicate with your mount to fix any tracking errors present. Wanting a more in depth look into autoguiding? Check out our PHD2-centered Autoguiding article, and the guiding section within our ZWO ASIAIR Ultimate Guide.

How to Choose a Guidescope for Astrophotography

There are a few things to consider when choosing a guidescope: the aperture, weight, focal length, and the focuser. A larger aperture will ultimately result in better light collection for better star resolution, though it’s important to remember that with a larger aperture, so comes an increase in weight. It’s best to avoid adding too much unnecessary weight to your telescope mount to avoid putting strain on its tracking performance; therefore, finding the right balance between weight and aperture is key. The next thing to consider is the focal length of your guidescope. A good rule of thumb is to choose a guidescope that houses a focal length that is no less than 1/3 of that of your main imaging telescope. This is to ensure that your guiding equipment and main equipment have a similar enough field of view for the guiding software to make sufficient tracking adjustments. Finally, finding a guidescope with a locking focuser will help immensely throughout your night of imaging. For instance, this Apertura 32 mm Guidescope comes fitted with a locking ring, ensuring your stars remain pristine all night and your guiding software can work to the best of its ability!

Should I get a 50mm, 60mm, or 70mm guidescope?

The answer to this question will depend on your current set up, specifically your telescope mount’s payload capacity. A larger aperture will collect more light, yes, though it’s important to keep in mind that larger aperture telescopes will also be much heavier. Lower aperture telescopes are much lighter and will put less strain on the telescope mount. Also, it’s much easier to securely fasten smaller telescopes to your rig, reducing the chances of differential flexure.

How are finderscopes and guidescopes different?

Like guidescopes, finderscopes are also small refractors that ride atop your main imaging rig, though these two scopes have different purposes. Finderscopes are used in conjunction with eyepieces, and are designed to aid astronomers in locating their targets. These wide-field scopes are to be aligned with your main telescope’s field of view, and once the object is centered, it will also be centered within the main telescope as well. Guidescopes, on the other hand, are to be paired with a guide camera. These refractors have the job of assisting your imaging rig in its tracking capabilities, allowing for longer exposures. Though different in their intended purposes, these refractors can often be easily interchanged into the other. Many finderscopes allow a camera to be attached for guiding, and plenty of guidescopes offer use with eyepieces!

Is a spotting scope the same as a guidescope?

While both are considered small refractors, spotting scopes and guidescopes differ in their intended purpose and design. Spotting scopes are to be coupled with eyepieces and designed for terrestrial viewing, such as bird watching or viewing sporting events. While not as powerful as a telescope, these scopes are more capable than binoculars with their larger apertures and higher quality glass. Guidescopes are generally much smaller and lighter in weight than spotting scopes, and are intended to be paired with a guide camera to assist equatorial mounts with their tracking capabilities.

Can you use guidescopes for visual astronomy?

The best way to utilize your guidescope for visual astronomy is to convert it into a finderscope. As most guidescopes readily accept eyepieces, aligning this small refractor’s field of view with your main telescope’s field of view will allow you to effortlessly find targets throughout your night of observing.



back to top image


EQ Wedge FAQs

What does the Celestron Wedge do?

While suitable for short exposure astrophotography such as during lunar or planetary imaging, alt-azimuth mounts (like Celestron fork arm mounts) present field curvature when conducting long exposure astrophotography. The addition of a Celestron wedge adds a polar axis to these fork arm mounts, eliminating the issue of field curvature! This means targets that require long exposures, such as nebulae, are now easily attainable.

Is an EQ wedge worth it?

To answer this question, it’s important to reflect on what your goals are within astrophotography. If you’re just getting started, an EQ wedge is a great accessory to have, as it takes the equipment you’re already familiar with and brings it to the next level. However, if you plan to upgrade your gear at some point in the future, it’ll be in your best interest to save up for an equatorial mount. The accuracy in tracking and the durable build quality that astrophotography-dedicated equatorial mounts provide is unparalleled, and will be highly beneficial within your astrophotography journey. These mounts will grow with you, supporting any new gear you may collect.

Can astrophotography be done with an Alt-Azimuth mount?

Yes, astrophotography can be done with an alt-azimuth mount! You may have heard of the issue of field curvature, the concentric pattern of stars that occurs when imaging with alt-azimuth mounts. While this is a problem for long exposure astrophotography, lunar imaging and planetary imaging are conducted with short exposures, and field curvature isn’t a pressing issue. However, if you’d like to conduct long exposure astrophotography to image objects such as the Orion Nebula or Andromeda Galaxy, the addition of an EQ wedge offers just this! EQ wedges add another axis, the polar axis, to alt-azimuth mounts, essentially turning them into equatorial mounts. This allows for photography of nebulae and other deep space objects without the worry of field curvature.

How can I do astrophotography with an alt-Azimuth mount?

Conducting astrophotography with an alt-azimuth mount is very similar to performing astrophotography with an equatorial mount, save the polar alignment and guiding calibration routines. You’ll first want to focus your camera, center your target, and begin capturing your subs! It’s important to keep in mind that since alt-azimuth mounts do not have a polar axis, only short exposures can be taken, making these mounts ideal for planetary or lunar photography. If you wish to delve into the world of deep space astrophotography, an accessory called an EQ wedge is needed to eliminate the issue of field curvature, the concentric pattern of stars that occurs when capturing long exposures with an alt-azimuth mount. These accessories are designed to turn the popular fork-arm based Celestron computerized telescopes into capable equatorial setups, allowing the ability to image nebulae and other deep space objects.



back to top image


Filter FAQs

Why are nebulae so beautiful if they are all dust and gas?

While dust and gas may not seem so special on their own, their interaction with starlight makes these giant space clouds so striking. If mainly composed of dust, light from surrounding stars is reflected, resulting in a stunning blue haze. The Pleiades Open Star Cluster, for example, is composed of young, blue stars which illuminate the dust cloud it’s engulfed within. Emission nebulae, on the other hand, are composed of gas, absorbing and emitting starlight. The color these nebulae glow is based upon the type of gas present within the cloud, with Hydrogen-alpha (glowing red) being the most dominant type in our universe.

How to choose a Hydrogen-Alpha filter

Choosing the right h-alpha filter will highly depend on the type of gear you already have. Slimmer bandwidths are more demanding on your camera, as well as your mount, given the longer exposures required to collect a significant amount of detail on the subject. While these rules apply to deep space astrophotography, it’s important to note that solar-dedicated h-alpha filters are requited for solar imaging, as deep space h-alpha filters cannot be used for solar astrophotography.

Are Neutral Density (ND) Filters a must in photography?

While not a must, neutral density filters can prove to be beneficial for landscape astrophotography in some circumstances. When used for wide angle starscape shots, these filters dim sky glow caused by light pollution or the Moon. This results in an increase contrast on the stars and higher definition of detail!

Why use a filter for astrophotography?

Filters, in general, allow astrophotographers to enhance their astroimages by allowing certain types of light through to the sensor while simultaneously blocking others. There are a wide variety of filters available on the market today, whether it be for light pollution reduction, preservation of detail, or isolation of certain wavelengths. These accessories provide an additional layer of creativity for astroimagers, helping them take their photos to the next level.

Are filters necessary for a DSLR?

If utilizing your DSLR for astrophotography, no, filters are not necessary to capture impressive images of your favorite celestial objects. Imaging unfiltered will yield great results on galaxies, reflection nebulae, and other broadband targets. Filters can, however, improve your experience by reducing the effects of light pollution and enhancing detail within emission nebulae. By helping to isolate the wavelengths specific to these types of targets, such as OIII, Ha, and SII, contrast is greatly increased, and detail is significantly enhanced! The Optolong L-Pro and Optolong L-eNhance, for instance are great options for those who reside in light polluted areas wishing to increase contrast between the background sky and their subject.

What are the best filters for a Nikon D850?

If your Nikon D850 is not modified for astrophotography, meaning it still houses its internal UV/IR filter, then any filter added to your imaging train will yield little benefit. However, if your Nikon D850 has been modified for astrophotography, there are a wide variety of filters available to help you achieve your imaging goals! If you’re looking to reduce the effects of light pollution, filters such as the Optolong L-Pro or Astronomik CLS-CCD Filter are great options. Or, perhaps, you’d like to delve into the world of narrowband imaging. The dual-band Optolong l-eNhance is a wonderful choice! It’s important to keep in mind that as this camera is uncooled, long exposures may result in a copious amount of heat noise, therefore it’s best to search for filters with wide enough bandwidths to avoid this.

What types of filters do DSLR cameras use?

While filters are disadvantages for unmodified DSLRs, astro-modified DSLRs can be used with a wide variety of filters, ranging from light pollution filters for urban residents, UV/IR filters to help with star bloat, and dual narrowband filters to make nebulous structure pop! Also, some models feature clip-in varieties, allowing use with your favorite camera lenses.

Do filters affect image quality?

Due to their intrinsic light-blocking nature, filters can be detrimental to image quality if they’re ill-equipped for the job. For instance, pairing a narrowband filter with a DSLR or mirrorless camera will yield a grainy, poorly-exposed image filled with copious amounts of heat noise. A monochrome, astro-dedicated, cooled camera paired with a narrowband filter, on the other hand, will deliver exceptional detail and stunning contrast on the target being imaged. Finding the right filter for your setup is imperative in ensuring the utmost quality!

Is an ND8 filter sufficient for photographing a solar eclipse?

While ND8 filters do cut out a large amount of light, these filters are not equipped for solar imaging. It’s important to never point your telescope at the Sun without a proper solar filter installed as to avoid damage to your equipment. If planning to capture images of the Sun, check out our selection of solar-dedicated filters by clicking here.

What is the Best Light Pollution Filter For Astrophotography?

Determining which light pollution filter is the “best” will heavily depend on personal circumstances and what you plan to image. As there are varying Bortle classes, so come filters with varying light blocking capabilities. If you live in a moderately light polluted area, a more gentle filter such as the Optolong L-Pro or Optolong L-Quad Enhance will help reduce the effects of light pollution while still allowing the collection of photons from celestial objects. While optimized for imaging emission nebulae, the wide bandwidth offered by these filters makes them effective for imaging broadband targets as well. If completely shrouded by light pollution, a more aggressive filter, like the Optolong L-eXtreme or Askar Colour Magic Duo-Narrowband 6nm Filter, will make a world of a difference within your images. These dual-narrowband filters isolate the wavelengths released by emission nebulae, delivering sharp detail and contrast!

What are Narrow Band Filters for Astrophotography?

Narrowband filters are specialized filters that isolate certain wavelengths produced by emission nebulae — specifically Ha, OIII, and SII. These accessories are great for discerning detail between the different gasses present within celestial bodies. While typically designed to isolate one wavelength and be paired with monochrome cameras, dual-band filters are available as well, giving users of color cameras the option to image in narrowband! Narrowband imaging also presents another layer of artistic creativity, as there are different types of color palettes available to orchestrate within your astroimages. The most popular one is the SHO color pallet, also known as the Hubble palette. This is where SII is mapped to red, OIII to blue, and Ha to green.

Light Pollution Filters: Are they worth it?

Overall, imaging with light pollution filters is a great way to work around your surroundings and create stunning astrophotos of your favorite celestial objects. These filters work to isolate the wavelengths of emission nebulae, delivering impressive detail on these targets even in the midst of light pollution. However, when it comes to imaging broadband targets, many may advise against the use of light pollution filters. This is due to their light blocking nature of broadband wavelengths—in some cases making it challenging to collect sufficient detail on these subjects. This will, of course, heavily depend on your particular Bortle class, as those who reside within moderate light pollution (Bortle 5-6) can still effectively reap the benefits of these filters. It’s best to assess your specific needs, your particular Bortle class, and what you wish to image to determine if a light pollution filter is appropriate for you.

Any tips for imaging under heavy light pollution?

In order to image under heavy light pollution, a narrowband filter is a must! These filters are specially designed to only allow particular wavelengths through, in-turn blocking out surrounding city light. There are a wide variety of different types available, as well as varying bandwidths. With that being said, whether you’re imaging in monochrome or color, there’s a narrowband filter for you.

How do I read a filter transmission chart?

A transmission chart is a tool used to determine the percentage of light that passes through a filter given a specific wavelength. Not only this, it also gives insight into the width of the bandpass that’s allowed through. For instance, a 12 nm H-alpha filter will permit a total width of 12 nm through to the sensor, straddling the H-alpha emission line of 656 nm. Understanding how to read these charts will prove to be very useful in selecting the right filter for you. Wanting a more in-depth look into transmission charts? Be sure to check out our How to Read a Filter Transmission Chart and Choose a Filter article on our Astronomy Hub!

How To Attach Filter To Camera?

Unlike traditional photography solutions that are installed in front of the lens, astrophotography filters are designed to be placed as close to the sensor as possible — providing full filtering performance at fraction of what a full aperture advanced astro filter would cost! For DSLR/ mirrorless camera users, some manufacturers make what are known as “clip in” filters, which are inserted into the camera body itself. With photography camera or dedicated astro cameras that have been paired with a telescope however, more common solutions include using round filters with dedicated filter sections on the telescope itself (called filter “cells”), filter drawer/holder/slider systems like the ZWO Gen 2 M42 x 0.75 Filter Drawer, or filter wheels such as the ZWO 7 Position Electronic Filter Wheel — a popular choice for monochrome camera imagers looking to make LRGB or SHO color pallet images!

What Size Filter Do I Need?

By far and away, the most common filter sizes are 1.25” and 2” round, mounted, filters, though unmounted options can be found throughout some manufacturer’s product lines as well. Which size you need depends on where the filter will be placed and the size of your camera sensor. The light captured by a telescope’s optics is focused in a cone shape that narrows to a point on your camera sensor. Accordingly, the closer to the camera sensor a filter is, the smaller it can be without “cutting off” the edges of this light cone and negatively impacting your image. If your camera sensor is tiny however, this might not be a concern assuming you can get the filter close enough. In most cases, a 2” filter is a safe pick — as this will work well with most telescope filter cells, filter drawers, and wheels with most camera sensors, while also providing a level of future proofing; users of small sensor or large sensor cameras should dig into what solutions may be available for their setup however.

How Do I Know The Filter Thread?

Just about all 1.25” and 2” mounted filters (i.e. having a housing and not just bare glass) produced today have standardized to M28.5x0.6 and M48x0.75 thread sizes respectively. As a result, today you can buy any 1.25” or 2” filter and confidently expect that it will work with an astronomy accessory marketed for that size of filter.

Can I Use Multiple Filters At Once?

Filters are one of the best ways to directly improve your images or views, so it may seem like combining multiple filters would provide additional performance. In practice however, things don’t quite pan out that way! If you’ve looked at a filter transmission graph, you may be able to spot one reason why — the transmittance %. Modern filters are very good at passing desirable wavelengths, but they’re not perfect. As a result, stacking filters decreases the signal we’re interested in along with the undesirable signal. If you were to stack two dual-band filters with 90% transmittance of Ha and OIII, you would only be receiving 80% of the incoming signal for possibly only a modest narrowing of the bandpasses. In most all cases, you will get the best results using a single filter designed for the specific filtering profile you’re looking for.



back to top image


Filter Wheel and Filter Holder FAQs

What Is A Filter Wheel?

A filter wheel is a device that houses multiple filters and allows you to quickly swap between them throughout your night of imaging. Filter wheels can be operated either manually or electronically. Electronic filter wheels (EFW) are wonderful for automated setups, as once a user-set number of images have been taken through one filter, the filter wheel will automatically switch to a different filter and resume imaging (after autofocus is performed). These accessories come in plenty of different sizes and can hold either mounted or unmounted filters based on their design. This ZWO Electronic Filter Wheel, for example, holds seven 2” filters, making it perfect for housing an entire LRGB set as well as an Ha, OIII, and SII narrowband set.

What Is A Filter Holder / Filter Drawer?

A filter drawer, also known as a filter slider or filter holder, is an accessory that houses a singular filter. These accessories mount directly in front of your camera, and can holder either 1.25” or 2” filters. To make filter swap a breeze, the removable portion (holding the filter itself) is typically held in place with strong magnets—keeping your filter secured while also allowing easy access.

Do I Need A Filter Drawer?

Even if your telescope or other accessories within your imaging train house filter threads, the addition of a filter drawer or filter wheel is highly beneficial. These devices allow you to quickly swap between filters without having to take apart your entire imaging train. This provides heightened convenience during your imaging sessions, letting you maximize your time under clear skies.

What Is A Mini Filter Wheel?

The ZWO EFW Mini is the smallest and lightest electronic filter wheel available on the market today. This accessory holds up to five 1.25” mounted or 31 mm unmounted filters, easily accommodating a LRGB filter set or a SHO filter set. Designed for small, lightweight setups, this Mini EFW is small and lightweight itself! It weighs in at just 10.58 ounces (300 g) and features a slim construction of 0.79” (20 mm).

What size of filter wheel is best for me?

This will depend on a number of factors. For one, it’s important to determine the size of filters you need based on your camera’s sensor size. The diagonal of your camera sensor should be smaller than the diameter of your chosen filter to minimize vignetting. For instance, if you have an APS-C sized sensor, the use of 2” filters would ensure the entire sensor is covered for maximum image quality. It’s also important to determine how many filters you’d like to store within the filter wheel. For instance, if you’d like to house an entire LRGB and SHO set, you’ll need a filter wheel with 7 slots. And lastly, the weight of the filter wheel is important to take into account, as the larger the accessory, the higher demand it has on your tracking mount.

What Is A Midi Filter Wheel?

A Midi filter wheel is a special type of filter wheel that combines two accessories into one! Not only does this accessory offer quick toggling between filters, it also includes a built-in off axis guider. This design streamlines your setup while simultaneously helping to improve your telescope’s guiding performance by reducing the issue of differential flexure (typical of traditional autoguiding setups).

How Do You Use A Filter Wheel?

Depending on the design, a filter wheel may be manually operated or electronically controlled. Manually operated filter wheels are great for those who do not plan to swap filters multiple times throughout the night—instead sticking to one filter per session. Simply rotate the filter tray to the desire position and you’re good to go! Electronic filters wheels, on the other hand, are ideal for those with more automated imaging rigs. With the help of PC software or devices like the ZWO ASIAir, the filter wheel position can be pre-programmed to automatically adjust after a certain number of images are taken. This is highly beneficial during remote imaging, where there is no manual input required by the user throughout the night.

Can I Use Different Size Filters In One Filter Wheel?

If you own a 2” filter wheel, it may be possible to house 1.25” filter wheels depending on your filter wheel model. This ZWO Filter Adapter Ring, for instance, allows 1.25" filters to be used in 2" filter wheels or filter drawers, such as the ZWO 5×2" EFW, the ZWO 7×2" EFW, and ZWO filter drawers. This Starizona 2" to 1.25" Filter Adapter offers a similar concept for Starizona Filter Sliders.



back to top image


Smartphone Adapter FAQs

How To Start Doing Astrophotography With My Smartphone?

In order to conduct astrophotography with your smartphone, only one device is needed: a smartphone adapter! This adapter secures your smartphone’s camera to your telescope’s eyepiece. It does so by clamping around the eyepiece itself while allowing you to easily center your phone over the eyepiece. Snap quick photos of the night sky and easily share it with friends, family, and social media. While optimal for lunar imaging, some other celestial objects, such as Jupiter and its Galilean Moons, can also be captured depending on the resolution of your smartphone camera and surrounding environmental conditions. These accessories are a great stepping stone for those just getting started in astrophotography.

Which Phone Has The Best Camera For Astrophotography?

To answer this question, we have to first understand exactly what it is that makes a smartphone great for astrophotography. As astrophotography is conducted in the dark, having the ability to adjust your smartphone’s camera shutter will be highly beneficial, as the longer the exposure, the more light you’ll be able to collect. Not only this, but it’s important to look for a smartphone that houses a high resolution sensor, while also featuring exceptional performance in low-light scenarios. These aspects will help you collect the most detail within the captured frames. Models like the Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra, the iPhone 15 Pro Max, and the Google Pixel 8 Pro are arguably some of the best smartphones for low light photography, as they come equipped with high megapixel counts and imaging modes like Nightography, Night Mode, and Night Sight, respectively. These imaging modes allow for long exposures to be taken to soak in the photons!

Which Smartphone Adapter Will Fit My Phone?

Most of the smartphone adapters we carry at High Point Scientific are compatible with all smartphones. This Apertura Smartphone Astrophotography Adapter, for instance, has been designed with an adjustable clamp that can hold even the largest of smartphones! To ensure your smartphone’s camera is in the ideal position over your eyepiece, it may be required to remove any large or bulky phone cases.

Can I Get Good Astro-Photos With My Smartphone?

As technology improves, the smartphones produced today feature cameras that are consistently rising in quality. As such, a large portion of smartphones available are capable of capturing a great deal of detail in low-light scenarios. If the native camera app on your phone does not feature exposure or ISO adjustment, apps like AstroShader for iOS, Camera FV-5 for Android, and plenty more, can help improve image quality by increasing control of your camera’s features. While ISO adjustments help boost in-camera image brightness, longer exposures aid in improved photon collection for heightened detail. Interested in combining your smartphone’s camera with the light gathering power of your telescope? Add a smartphone adapter over your eyepiece and capture stunning images of the Moon and possbly even some planets!



back to top image


Adapter & Spacer FAQs

How do I attach a camera to a telescope?

This depends on the camera you’re looking to connect, whether you’ll be using a field flattener or coma corrector, what other accessories you want to use, and the design of all those components. The most basic way this is achieved is by using what is known as a nosepiece (or Barlow if you have a Newtonian) with a dedicated astronomy camera or with a DSLR/mirrorless camera and T-ring. There is a lot to consider even in these simple setups however, so for more information and diagrams we recommend giving our article How to Connect a Camera to a Telescope a read!

How to connect my Nikon D3300 to a telescope?

To attach a Nikon D3300 to a telescope, you will need a Nikon T-ring that connects directly to the lens mount of your camera. This Nikon T-Ring from Apertura is a great choice to get the job done! You will also need a nosepiece that will screw into the T-ring. After you secure the nosepiece within your telescope’s focuser and bring your telescope into focus, you’re all set to start imaging! Want a more detailed description of how this process works? Be sure to take a look at our How to Connect a Camera to a Telescope article on our Astronomy Hub.

Can you use an ordinary camera on a regular telescope?

A DSLR can easily be attached to a camera with the help of a brand-dedicated T-ring adapter as well as a nosepiece adapter. Whether you shoot Canon, Sony, or Nikon, we have you covered! Check out the Apertura T-Rings for Canon, Sony, or Nikon cameras we carry here at High Point. After installing the T-ring, simply screw on either a 1.25” or 2” nosepiece depending on the size of your telescope’s focuser. Insert the nosepiece into the focuser, then secure it with the thumb screws. Bring your optics into focus, and you’re ready to start imaging!

Can you do astrophotography with the Sony RX100 VII?

Yes, astrophotography can be done with the Sony RX100 VII! While the results may not be as spectacular as high-end DSLRs and lenses (given the RX100 VII is a point and shoot camera), the overall image quality this camera delivers is quite impressive thanks to its exceptional low-light performance. Not only this, but the wide f/1.8 lens helps collect a large amount of light to boost detail and brightness. With its 24-200 mm focal length range, this camera is great for wide angle Milky Way shots. Check out our Beginners Guide to Imaging the Milky Way article on our Astronomy Hub.

How Do Photographers Use Telescopes For Astrophotography?

Astrophotographers connect either their DSLRs, mirrorless, or dedicated astroimaging cameras to their telescopes to take a deep look into space. If you’re interested in connecting your camera to your telescope, our team has put together a comprehensive article that breaks down this process! At high focal lengths, the addition of a specialized tracking mount, called an equatorial mount, is also needed to prevent the stars from appearing streaky and blurred. To control this equipment, PC software or devices like the ZWO ASIAIR help with target selection, target framing, camera operation, and plenty more.

Do You Lose Image Quality With A Canon R Adapter?

No, a Canon R adapter will not degrade the quality of your images. This adapter does not house any glass elements, therefore the incoming light is not altered in any way. This means you can freely image with your DSLR Canon EF and EF-S lenses on your Canon R mirrorless camera without the worry of image degradation.

What Is A T-Mount?

In the world of astrophotography, a T-mount is a mounting system that allows you to connect your DSLR or mirrorless camera to your SCT or EdgeHD telescope. Only two adapters are needed for this: a T-ring and a T-adapter. The T-ring chosen must be designed for your specific camera, and attaches just as a camera lens would. T-rings feature a diameter of either 42 or 48 mm and house female threads (denoted as T-threads) with a 0.75 thread pitch. The male camera-side of the T-adapter screws into the T-ring, and the female telescope-side screws onto your telescope. Just as T-rings must be specific per camera model, T-adapters must also be chosen based on your specific telescope.

What Is A C-Mount?

A C-mount is a type of lens mount that houses male threads which adjoin with the female threads of a camera or camera adapter. When searching for a guide camera or planetary camera, you may come across some cameras that include a C or CS lens adapter. The addition of this adapter allows you to utilize your guide camera with these types of lenses, such as an ultra-wide field lens or even an all-sky lens.

What Does T2 Mean?

The term T2 refers to a type of adapter necessary for camera connection to a telescope. T2 adapters include a diameter of 42 mm and a thread pitch of 0.75. While frequently synonymous with M42 adapters, it’s best to double check the thread pitch if planning to utilize an M42 adapter in place of a T2 adapter or vice versa.

What Is An Astrophotography Spacer?

A spacer is an addition to an imaging train that adjusts the space between a camera’s sensor and the telescope. This helps you achieve optimal image quality by placing your sensor at the precise focal point of your optics! The industry standard of backfocal distance required is 55 mm, though this number may vary slightly from setup to setup. As such, we carry a wide selection of spacers & adapters. If you need assistance in choosing the correct one, don't hesitate to contact us.

What Is Backfocus?

Backspacing is the distance the camera sensor needs to be placed in order to reach proper focus with your chosen optics. Placing the sensor too far or too close to the telescope’s focusing mechanism will yield distortions around the frame, or you may not even be able to find focus at all. Before assembling an imaging train, it’s important to take the total width of all of the accessories you plan to utilize, as well as your camera’s native backspacing. Next, compare that measurement to the required backspacing. If the measurement is too short, you will need to add spacers to set your camera at the appropriate distance. With most optical assemblies, the required backspacing is typically 55mm, though, it’s important to check the specific backspacing necessity of your telescope. Want to learn more? Check out our How to Connect a Camera to a Telescope article for a more in-depth look!



back to top image


Focusing Aids FAQs

Why Do Cameras Lose Focus On Certain Objects

Throughout a night of imaging, the periodic drop in temperature causes the body of your telescope to contract. This physical shift results in a displacement of your telescope’s focal point, causing the target to appear slightly blurry and out of focus. This can be combatted by refocusing your telescope about once every hour or so, either manually or with the help of an electronic autofocuser.

How Do I Improve My Manual Focusing Skills?

To get better at manually focusing, the addition of a Bahtinov mask will help immensely! These accessories produce a specific diffraction spike pattern, that when aligned, denotes perfect focus. Simply place the focus mask over your telescope’s aperture, slew to a bright star, and adjust your focus knob until the middle diffraction spike is perfectly centered within “x” shaped diffraction spikes. The team at Apertura has taken the time to enhance the design of focus masks even further, delivering their line of Bright Focus Masks. Want a more in depth look? Check out our Building a Better Focus Mask article!

What Is An Alternative To Focusing My Telescope?

If you wish to upgrade your focusing routine, the addition of an electronic focuser is a great option! These accessories work in conjunction with software to find the precise focal point of your optics. Not only does this ensure that your stars will be sharp and pinpoint, but it also adds a level of automation to your rig. No more fumbling in the cold trying to find focus, simply press a button and your telescope will be focused in minutes.

Will Poor Collimation Result In Poor Focus?

Yes, poor collimation will result in poor focus. Mirrors that are not properly aligned cannot bring the incoming light into focus correctly, resulting in less than ideal image quality. Prior to imaging, it’s important to ensure your optics are properly collimated to ensure your stars are sharp and crisp. This can be done with tools such as collimation caps, Cheshire eyepieces, or a laser collimator.

Use Of Celestron Focus Motor To Improve Planetary Imaging?

Finding focus manually can be a great challenge due to the image jostling that occurs when touching your scope, especially at the high focal lengths needed for planetary imaging. As such, yes, the addition of a Celestron Motor Focuser will be a great help in improving your planetary imaging. By utilizing software and the ultrafine focusing steps provided by the Focus Motor, the precise focal point of your optics can be determined. This will result in ultra-crisp details on Jupiter’s Great Red Spot, the rings on Saturn, surface details on Mars, and plenty more!

Is Autofocus Or Manual Focus Better For Astrophotography?

While a great tool for terrestrial photography, the autofocus feature included on some lenses proves to be ineffective for astrophotography. Why? A large majority of DSLR and mirrorless cameras utilize autofocus with contrast detection, a method that delivers lackluster results when used on stars. It’s best practice to find focus yourself with the live view on your DSLR to ensure the stars are sharp and crisp. To streamline this process, the use of a Bahtinov mask will help immensely!

Do You Need An Electronic Focuser For Astrophotography?

While these accessories have a long list of benefits, such as the heightened convenience of finding the precise focal point of your optics automatically, no, an electronic focuser is not needed for astrophotography. Other accessories, like these Apertura Bright Focus Masks, help you achieve perfect focus manually. They are much more affordable than electronic focusers, and are very easy to use. Simply place them over your telescope’s front lens, then focus until the diffraction spikes cross perfectly over the center of the stars.

What Is An Electronic Focuser?

An electronic focuser is a device that attaches to your telescope’s focuser and utilizes motors to shift your telescope in and out of focus. These accessories are controlled either with PC software, your smartphone or tablet through a brand-specific app, or your telescope’s hand controller, depending on the model. Since focus is performed without actually touching the telescope, image shift is significantly reduced, making these devices especially useful for those with high focal length telescopes. Not only is image shift minimized, but software is able to determine the precise focal point of your optics automatically, meaning no more frustrating nights trying to find perfect focus!

Who Makes Electronic Focusers?

As electronic focusers are proving to be one of the most game-changing additions to astrophotography rigs, numerous brands have developed their own design of electronic focusers. The ZWO EAF is one of the most popular models around with its ease of use, high performance, and its compatibility with the ZWO ASIAIR. The FocusCube 3 from Pegasus Astro is another popular choice thanks to its effortless installation as well as its high resolution motor. Celestron, PrimaLuceLabs, QHY, iOptron, and Rigel Systems also offer electronic focusers, giving you a wide range to choose from. Browse our selection by clicking here!

Is EAF And Electronic Focuser The Same?

The ZWO EAF is a type of electronic focuser. The full name of this ZWO accessory is the Electronic Automatic Focuser, which is abbreviated to EAF. This device lives up to its name sake, finding focus automatically with the help of software!

How Do I Connect An Electronic Focuser To My Telescope?

This will depend on the model of electronic focuser you have, as well as the type of telescope you own. To give you an overall idea of how this process works, each of our electronic focuser product pages feature a general guide to connecting an electronic focuser to your telescope. Be sure to check them out by clicking here. If you need help measuring your telescope for an electronic focuser, we have you covered! take a look at our Measuring Your Telescope for an Electronic Focuser article on our Astronomy Hub.

What Is The Difference Between An Autofocuser And Electronic Focuser?

While similar in concept, autofocus refers to the focusing mechanism offered by a DSLR and lens, while electronic focusing is in reference to focusing a telescope with an external device called an electronic focuser. Most DSLRs and mirrorless cameras utilize contrast detection to determine focus—something great for daytime photography but not so much for the night sky. This is why manual focus is best when performing astrophotography with a lens. Electronic focusers, on the other hand, calculate focus based on the star size at different focus positions. This plot of star size vs. focus index is called a V-curve, and helps bring your telescope into sharp focus.

How Can I Make My Telescope Autofocus On The Stars?

This can be done with the addition of an electronic focuser! These devices capture a series of photos at different focusing indexes, analyzing the star size within each. The star sizes are plotted on a graph, resulting in what’s called a V-curve. The lowest point on the “V” denotes ideal focus, in which the electronic focuser returns your telescope’s focuser to this position. This streamlines your focusing routine, saving you precious clear sky time.

What Is A Bahtinov Mask & How Does It Help Focus?

A Bahtinov mask is a special type of mask that helps with manual focus. These accessories are designed with a special pattern that creates diffraction spikes around each star. Three bright diffraction spikes will be apparent, one singular line, and two crossed in an “X” shape. The goal is to get the singular diffraction spike directly in the center of the “X” shaped diffraction spikes. Once this is achieved, you will know you have reached perfect focus!

What Is A Diffraction Pattern?

A diffraction pattern is an artifact on stars that is a result of an object in front of the telescope’s aperture. These artifacts present themselves as lines protruding from the center of the star. Newtonian reflector telescopes, for instance, produce “+” shaped diffraction spikes. This is due to the “+” shaped spider vanes that hold the secondary mirror in place. While in most cases diffraction spikes are produced as a result of the telescope design, Russian amateur astronomer, Pavel Bahtinov, took this idea and created the Bahtinov mask. This accessory creates a specific diffraction pattern, that when aligned correctly, denotes perfect focus.

Which Focus Mask Works The Best?

If you’re looking for a focus mask beyond compare, look no further than the Apertura Bright Focus Masks! Apertura has taken the key aspects of Bahtinov masks and made them even better—delivering an enhanced focusing experience. With an improved design that reduces light scatter, contrast of the focus pattern is increased and brightness is amplified. Also, as opposed to simply scaling up or scaling down the same mask pattern, the Bright Focus Masks feature a specific mask pattern for each size available to ensure optimal performance. Want to learn more about the development of these Apertura focus masks? Check out our Building a Better Focus Mask article on our Astronomy Hub.

Who Is Bahtinov?

Pavel Bahtinov is a Russian amateur astronomer and telescope maker. He is known for his development of the widely used Bahtinov masks. These focusing aids are a staple for visual astronomers and astrophotographers, as they help provide quick, accurate focusing.



back to top image


Accessory Terms To Know

#-Element (i.e. 2-element, 3-element, etc.)

When a refractor is described as having a 2-element, 3-element, 4-element, etc. optical design, that dictates the number of lenses within the refracting telescope. The number of elements also dictates how that refractor is classified: 2-element refractors are doublets, 3-element refractors are triplets, 4-element refractors are quadruplets, and so on.

1.25"/2" diameter

Typically these are used to describe eyepieces, referring to the outside diameter of the barrel that is inserted into the focuser or diagonal for visual astronomy. However as some astrophotography setups do use/ reuse some of the same connections, this is seen in some astrophotography accessories - most notably nosepieces

Aperture

Aperture is the diameter of a telescope's primary mirror or lens listed in millimeters or inches. The bigger the aperture of a telescope, the more light it will gather, allowing the observer to see more detail on celestial objects and ascertain finer details that a telescope of lesser aperture may not see.

Arc Minute

An arc minute is a unit of measurement that denotes the angular size of an object within our night sky. There are 60 arc minutes within a degree of the night sky, and 60 arc seconds within an arc minute. For instance, the Moon is 31 arc minutes in apparent size, and therefore approximately 0.5 degrees.

Arc Second

An arc second is a unit of measurement that denotes the angular size of an object within our night sky. There are 60 arc seconds within an arc minute, and 60 arc minutes within a degree. For instance, the Moon has an apparent size of 1860 arc seconds, 31 arc minutes, and about 1/2 a degree.

Auto-Focus

Automatic focusing utilizes software to shift the focus of a telescope in and out to determine the precise focal point of the optics. It does this by reading the star size at each focus point, creating a graph of this data, then finds the minimum star size; bringing the optics into sharp focus.

Autoguiding

Autoguiding is a process which utilizes a smaller telescope, referred to as a guide scope, and an additional camera sensor, known as a guide camera, to assist your mount in its tracking precision. Alternatively, this can be achieved using an Off-Axis Guider (OAG), which is fitted within your primary imaging train. An OAG uses the light captured by your telescope and sends it to your guide camera via an internal prism. So, how does autoguiding actually work? Your guide camera will take a constant series of short exposures (typically 1-3 seconds each) that will then be analyzed by software. After the software selects the best guide star(s) to guide upon, the goal is to keep these stars as steady as possible from frame to frame. If there is a discrepancy in the positioning of the stars, the guiding software will communicate with the mount to make small adjustments to fix these tracking errors. While it may not be necessary for short exposure astrophotography such as planetary, lunar, or solar, autoguiding is highly beneficial for long exposure astrophotography.

Backfocus / Backfocal Distance / Backspacing

All optical systems have a point at which an in-focus image is formed, and for astrophotography it is at this location that the camera sensor should be placed. When the telescope is used without corrective elements, this is done easily with the focuser mechanism; and so long as an image can be brought into focus, optimal optical performance will be achieved. However with corrective elements, oftentimes there is a certain distance that the camera sensor needs to be placed away from the rear of the corrector for optimal performance. This will be listed as the backspacing or backfocal distance for the corrective element.

Bahtinov Mask

A Bahtinov mask is a tool that aids the user in finding optimal focus and was created by Russian astrophotographer Pavel Bahtinov in 2005. This type of focusing aid creates 3 diffraction spikes over a bright star within the field of view. While adjusting the focus knob, the point in which the three lines intersect perfectly over the star result in perfect focus. This tool is widely used by astrophotographers worldwide and creates an effortless focusing routine.

Camera Rotator

A camera rotator is fitted onto the back of the telescope and allows the user to rotate their imaging equipment to find the desired photographic angle. These devices can either come manually operated or electronically operated. Electronic camera rotators are extremely beneficial for creating mosaics of the night sky, as they help you achieve precise camera orientation.

Chromatic Aberration

Different wavelengths of light travel at different speeds based on the medium it occupies. When white light is exposed to glass such in a telescope or lens, blue light, red light, and green light slow at varying rates. This change of speed causes each wavelength to focus at different points along the focal plane, resulting in color fringing seen within the images taken.

Collimation

Collimation is the process in which the optical elements of a telescope are aligned to deliver the best performance possible. In refracting optical systems, lens collimation is performed by the manufacturer at the time of assembly. In contrast, reflecting telescopes contain mirrors that are often bumped out of alignment. As a result, these types of telescopes require periodic collimation from the user to ensure peak clarity and sharpness. Various tools are available for collimation, such as laser collimation, Cheshire eyepieces, and collimation caps, just to name a few.

Coma

Coma is the comet-like appearance of stars near the edges of the frame. This occurs when light entering the optics focuses at different points around the corners of the image, causing an overlap of unfocused stars that present itself in a trailing manner.

Coma Corrector

To remedy comatic aberration, the comet-like appearance of the stars around the edges of the frame, the addition of a coma corrector is necessary. These optical accessories fit inside of your telescope’s focuser and correct the incoming light, delivering crisp stars across the entire field of view.

Corrective Element

This refers to an optical accessory such as a field flattener, coma corrector, or reducer. These improve some facet of a telescope’s performance, such as optical distortions that might otherwise appear on the edge of the frame; or augments it, for example by providing a wider field of view.

Dedicated Astronomy Camera

These cameras don’t look like what one traditionally thinks of when imaging a camera; instead taking the form of cylinders or pucks, with no physical controls, displays, or viewfinders to speak of. These require a computer or WiFi control device to take images, with more advanced models additionally requiring external power. What they give in return for all of these concessions is granular control over the sensor settings, increased sensitivity to wavelengths that more traditional cameras filter out, options for deBayered sensors (true monochrome), designs that easily connect with astronomy equipment, and in some cases cooling for increased performance.

Dew Heater

Dew heaters are a low wattage dew prevention tool. It utilizes an electrical heater to warm up a lens to prevent the accumulation of moisture.

Dew Strip

This is an accessory that is used to redirect the light passing through the telescope in a different direction. This is done to provide a more comfortable viewing angle for telescopes designs that would otherwise place the eyepiece in an awkward place for viewing. This is not a concern for imaging, and only serves to provide an extra surface to lose some light from; consequently the diagonal is typically removed even in very basic imaging setups.

Dovetail Plate / Dovetail Bar

A dovetail is a mounting plate that attaches to the bottom of your telescope. This allows the telescope to be mounted to a telescope mount via the dovetail saddle. Dovetails can come in many different designs, though are most often found in Vixen or Losmandy styles.

Drawtube / Focuser Tube

On reflectors such as a Newtonian & RCs, as well as on most all refractors, there is a section that can move in and out of the main body of the telescope. It is here that visual observing or astrophotography equipment is connected, so that they can then be moved to focus on the object in view. This moving section is known as the focuser tube or drawtube.

DSLR / Mirrorless Camera

What one may consider a “regular” camera; used for everyday photography and feature an interchangeable (removable) lens system. Popular brands from this category that also enjoy wide support in the astrophotography hobby are Sony, Canon, and Nikon.

EQ Wedge

An EQ wedge is an accessory that allows astrophotography to be conducted with an alt-azimuth mount, specifically the Celestron fork-arm mounts. These additions introduce a polar axis to these mounts, allowing alignment with the celestial pole. In doing so, the issue of field rotation is eliminated, and the resulting images are sharp and distortion-free.

Exposure Time

Exposure time is the amount of time the camera sensor is allowed to collect light. In general, the longer the exposure time, the more light collected, and the brighter the image will become. This should be selected with caution though, as an exposure time that's too long can oversaturate the pixels and blow out the image, resulting in a loss of signal. Determining the correct exposure time is highly dependent on the aperture of the optics as well as the gain settings used. A larger aperture will produce a brighter image than that of a smaller aperture with the same exposure time. In a similar fashion, an image with a higher gain setting will be brighter than a lower gain setting image with equal exposure time. Finding the perfect balance between the aperture, gain, and exposure time will maximize image quality.

Field Curvature

Field curvature is an optical aberration that presents elongated stars along the corners of the frame. This is due to the geometric difference between a flat camera chip and a curved optical plane, causing the center of the image to be sharp and in focus while the outer edges are increasingly distorted.

Field of View (FOV)

In simple terms, your field of view is the amount of sky that is witnessed by your telescope/camera combination, or telescope/eyepiece combination. This measurement is calculated in angular degrees. To calculate how much of the sky you can image with your astrophotography rig, take the width of your camera chip, multiply it by 57.3, then divide that product by the focal length of your optics. If you want to determine how much of the sky you can view through your eyepiece, take the apparent field of view of your eyepiece (provided by the manufacturer), then divide it by the quotient of your telescope’s focal length & the focal length of your eyepiece.

Filter

A filter is an accessory that is inserted within the imaging train. These accessories allow only select wavelengths through to the camera sensor. For instance, a blue filter will only allow the camera sensor to collect blue light, while all other light is blocked out. There are a wide variety of filters, from light pollution filters to narrowband filters. The combination of data from filters is a great way to create images that highlight certain wavelengths from celestial objects.

Filter Wheel

A filter wheel is a device that holds a number of filters. These accessories are great for easily swapping between filters, such as red, green, and blue filters for a streamlined imaging session. Filter wheels can hold either 1.25”, 2”, mounted, or unmounted filters based on the model. They also can be operated manually or electronically.

Finder Scope

A finder scope fits on top of the main telescope and is used to help you find and center objects in your eyepiece. A finder can be as simple as a red dot finder or it can be a high quality small telescope in its own right.

Focal Length

The focal length is the distance, usually measured in millimeters, between the primary mirror or lens and the point at which the image comes to focus. Generally, classic refractors have a longer focal length, Newtonian reflectors tend to have a focal length that is shorter, and Schmidt-Cassegrain fall somewhere in the middle.

Focal Ratio

The focal ratio is calculated by dividing the aperture (mm) of the primary mirror or lens into the focal length. Example: 2500 mm divided by 254 mm (10") equals an f/ratio of 9.84, which is usually rounded off, in this case to f/10. The focal ratio signifies how quickly a telescope gathers light and tells us something about the telescope's field of view, how long exposures will take during astrophotography sessions, and how much magnification the eyepiece will produce for that telescope.

Focuser Knob

This component allows the end user to adjust focus. On refractors and some reflectors this is done by moving the visual observing or imaging equipment; other optical designs like SCTs move the optical elements. Typically there are three focusing knobs to accomplish this - one coarse, and then a dual speed set of two that provide coarse and fine focusing - however SCTs will often just have one that provides fine focus only.

GPS

Originally invented by the U.S. Department of Defense, this technology became fully functional in the United States in 1995. This radio navigation system utilizes satellites to provide the precise global position of GPS enabled devices. Out of the 31 GPS satellites orbiting Earth today, GPS receivers only need information from 4 GPS satellites to determine accurate location. Cell phones, computers, and endless other devices act as GPS receivers. GPS is helpful in astronomy and astrophotography by providing the imaging software with the correct time, date, and location, helping create a detailed image of what the sky should look like based on this information.

Guide Camera

A guide camera has the important job of assisting your mount with its tracking capabilities. It does this by capturing constant frames of the night sky, usually 1-3 seconds each, that are then sent to autoguiding software. The software analyzes the field of view, selects guide stars and determines their center of mass, then compares each incoming frame to this calculated center of mass. If any discrepancies are found between the captured frames, the software will then communicate with the mount to fix these errors.

Hydrogen-Alpha (Ha, H-a, H-alpha, Hα, H-α)

In very simplified terms, when atoms change energy levels, specific wavelengths of light can be emitted. Hydrogen has one of these wavelengths (or more specifically, spectral lines) around 656.46 nm, in the form of H-alpha. This is close to red and can be observed in nebulae - or more importantly for the subject at hand, in stars such as our Sun. When being written, H-alpha is commonly shortened to simply Ha in the astronomy community.

Image Capture Software

Astrophotography image capture software are specialized pieces of software designed to operate your astrophotography equipment. There are plenty of options available, though some of the most popular ones are N.I.N.A, Astro Photography Tool, Sequence Generator Pro, and SharpCap, just to name a few. These applications have been designed to provide seamless imaging sessions, allowing extensive opportunities such as target selection, target framing, plate solving, autoguiding, image acquisition, camera cooling, automation, and plenty more.

Imaging Train

Your imaging train is your telescope, camera, and any other accessories that are fixed between them, such as filters, filter wheels, off-axis guiders, focal reducers, etc.

Incoming Light

The term incoming light refers to the photons emitted by the celestial object being imaged. These photons are collected by your telescope and camera, then converted into signal.

Light Pollution

Light pollution is the brightening of the atmosphere due to lights from streetlamps, other forms of artificial light, and even the Moon. As light enters the atmosphere, it washes out the night sky, making it very difficult to observe the stars, nebulae, and planets. In order to combat light pollution in astrophotography, special filters have been developed to cut through excess light and enhance images. These filters are known as City Light Suppression filters, commonly referred to as CLS filters.

Mounted Filter

Mounted filters are filters that are encased within a metal rim. This rim is usually fitted with threads to attach it to other devices within an imaging train, such as a filter wheel or an eyepiece.

Native Backfocus / Flange Distance

These terms are used to describe the distance from the camera’s connection point to its sensor.This is important for back spacing calculations, to account for spacing the camera will be “adding” on its own. Each term is used to describe the same concept with two different systems, with Native Backfoucs being used with dedicated astro cameras and flange distance used with DSLR/ mirrorless cameras; however this rarely comes into play with DSLR/ mirrorless cameras as the T-Rings produced for these systems add the requisite amount of space to for a 55 mm backfocus system.

Neutral Density (ND) Filter

A neutral density filter, commonly shortened to ND filter, is a filter most common in the world of traditional photography though some smart telescopes do have ND options available. These filters cut the amount of light that reaches the imaging sensor, which for smart telescopes can be helpful in daytime scenarios where over-exposure can’t be tamed with gain and exposure time alone. It’s important to note that these filters do not block enough light to image the Sun, for which a dedicated solar filter is needed. The exception to this is the ND filters from DwarfLab for the DWARF II telescope, in which both included ND filters must be equipped to avoid damage to the device.

Newtonian Telescope

A Newtonian telescope (sometimes colloquially called just a ‘Newt’) is a reflector telescope with a fairly simple, yet effective, optical design. Using just a basic parabolic-shaped primary mirror and an even more basic flat secondary mirror, this optical design is one of the most cost effective reflector designs; and yet it still offers compelling performance. Coma is an aberration inherent to the Newtonian optical design, which is why coma correctors are commonly used when imaging with these telescopes. Compared to most newer reflector designs, Newtonians do not utilize a folded mirror system, meaning they are physically longer than SCTs, RCs, or Mak-Cass. This also means that light does not exit out the back of the scope, but the side. This is a comfortable location for observing, but a bit less ideal for imaging equipment.

Nosepiece

An adapter that allows cameras to be installed in place of visual observing equipment such as diagonals or eyepieces. These adapters feature threading for a T-Ring or camera on one side, and an 1.25” or 2” barrel on the other.

Off-axis Guider (OAG)

As opposed to using a guide scope, off-axis guiders are fitted into the main imaging train itself, and utilizes the incoming light from the primary telescope for guiding. It achieves this via an internal prism that sends light into the guide camera. When using traditional guide scopes, these scopes can alter in position slightly through the night of imaging, causing the issue of differential flexure. But utilizing the main imaging rig’s incoming light, off-axis guiders eliminate this issue.

Optical Tube Assembly (OTA)

The acronym OTA stands for Optical Tube Assembly. An OTA is simply the telescope portion of a telescope/mount/tripod package. Some telescope users prefer to buy the OTA separately so they can create a custom astrophotography set-up or use a mount they already own.

Polar Alignment

Polar alignment is the process of aligning a telescope mount’s polar axis with the Earth’s axis of rotation. By having these two axes parallel to one another, precise counteraction of the Earth’s rotation can then be achieved. While a typical process of equatorial mounts that have three inherent axes of rotation, a similar effect can also be achieved by utilizing an equatorial wedge with two-axis alt-azimuth mounts.

Polar Scope

Polar scopes are small telescopes that assist with aligning a mount’s polar axis with the Earth’s axis of rotation. They are found within your mount, and are fitted with an internal reticle that shows Polaris’s position in reference to the true celestial North Pole, and Sigma Octantis’s position in reference to the true celestial South Pole. Through alignment of these pole stars within the polar scope, the mount will then be accurately polar aligned.

Rack & Pinion Focuser

Rack & Pinion focusers utilize a gear-oriented system to bring the telescope into focus. When the focusing knob is turned, the gears of the Pinion mechanism mesh with those of the Rack mechanism to move the eyepiece or imaging equipment into the focal point of the optics. By using gears, this type of focusing design is less likely to suffer from slippage as other focusers are prone to, and are one of the most commonly used in today’s most popular telescopes.

Reflector Telescope / Reflecting Telescope

A reflector is a telescope design in which mirrors are used to gather and focus light. Reflector telescopes are commonly called Newtonian Reflectors, or simply a Newtonian in deference to their inventor, Sir Isaac Newton.

Resolution / Resolving Power

In terms of camera sensors, the resolution is the number of pixels each image contains. It will typically be listed either in a width-by-height format, such as 1920x1080, or as the total number of pixels (given in megapixels). More resolution is generally better as it provides more detail, the ability to zoom in or crop an image more before pixelation becomes visible, or the ability to present or print the picture larger. As a frame of reference, a typical Full HD TV or monitor is 1920x1080 (2.1 MP) with 4K screens coming in at 3840x2160 (8.3 MP).

SHO Filter Set

A SHO filter set is a set of filters that includes an SII filter, a H-alpha filter, and an OIII filter. These filters isolate these wavelengths, in which the data is then combined in post processing software to create a SHO image, mapping SII to red, H-alpha to green, and OIII to blue. This palette is also referred to as the Hubble Palette.

Software

Software consists of programs and date used by a computer to complete certain tasks.

Solar Filter

A filter that blocks the majority of incoming light from the Sun, only allowing a small amount through. These block much more light than sunglasses, tinted glass, or neutral density filters. The superior light blocking ability of solar filters allow for direct viewing or imaging of the Sun and solar eclipses through magnified optics. Without these filters it is not safe for people or camera sensors to directly observe the Sun.

Spacer

These are fairly simple components, designed to add spacing to an imaging system. While there are some sizes that have become common due to corrective element backspacing, dedicated astronomy camera native backfocus, and popular accessory thicknesses coalescing around certain spacing distances, there are still plenty of unique sizes and thickness available for unique builds/ equipment.

Stacking

A method used to bring out what would otherwise be faint or invisible detail and contrast in an astrophotography image. When imaging a target, the longer an exposure is, generally the more faint detail will become visible. However as exposure time becomes longer several complications emerge - motion blur due to compounding small deviations or errors in tracking, increased sensor noise and glow, and overexposure of the bright areas of an image. Stacking mitigates these issues by combining a number of shorter exposure images, commonly called sub exposures, sub frames, or simply “subs”, into one image that effectively has a longer exposure time. The stacking process can further improve the resulting image with the use of calibration frames that help identify and compensate for visual artifacts introduced by the optics or sensor itself.

T-Adapter

Typically this is used to describe an accessory for SCT telescopes, which is threaded to the back of the OTA or reducer (replacing the visual back). These spacers add enough space to the imaging train such that only the industry standard 55 mm of backspacing remains. For information on the adapter that connects directly to a DSLR/ mirrorless camera, see T-Ring.

T-Ring

A T-Ring is an accessory that is used to connect a DSLR/ mirrorless camera to threaded connections. These have a camera lens mount on one side, and a female/ internally threaded connection on the other in either M48 or M42. Most (but not all) T-Rings will set the camera at 55 mm of backspacing, making connections easy.

T2/ T2 Thread

Connections listed as T2/ T2 thread/ T2 thread diameter are referencing a M42x0.75 standard. This shorthand originates from the days when astrophotography was done with film and remains popular to this day, though referring to this type of connection simply as M42 is becoming more prevalent. It is noteworthy that at this point in time that there is no consensus on what thread pitch should be used for M42 (or M48) threads, though most are close to the 0.75 mm specification. As a result, while most all T2 thread size/ M42 components will thread together, on occasion you may encounter components with these labels that do not work together.

USB

Universal Serial Bus or USB is a protocol for data transmission, and is by far and away the most common way astronomy equipment will communicate with a PC in a wired capacity. There are a number of USB connectors, such as USB-A (the rectangular port you’re likely familiar with), USB-B, USB-C, and micro USB; as well as a number of different revisions (2.0, 3.0, 3.1, etc.) that have brought more speed, power, and reliability to the protocol.

UV-IR

A UV/IR filter is one that blocks out unwanted ultraviolet and infrared light from entering the sensor. This filter helps improve the sharpness within the image, keeping the stars tight and increasing detail.

Vignetting

Vignetting is seen as the darkening of the corners of the frame within an image. This happens when the camera sensor is not exposed to enough light, resulting in a shadow effect along the borders of the image. This issue presents itself for a number of reasons, though most commonly occurs when using incompatible sensor sizes and image circles, and using too small of filters for the imaging assembly.

WiFi (Wi-Fi)

Wi-Fi, sometimes shortened to just WiFi or wifi, is a protocol for wireless communication. Primarily it is used to transmit and receive data between a device (such as a smartphone, computer, smart TV, and an ever increasing number of other household devices) and a router or wireless access point that is connected to the internet. Communication with the internet is not the only function the Wi-Fi protocol is useful for, and indeed many of the aforementioned devices can communicate with each other locally using this protocol and the router as an intermediary. Increasingly this protocol has been used for more direct communication between two devices (like a smartphone and a smart telescope), with one creating its own access point or broadcast that both devices then send and receive data on. While this does have the disadvantage of disconnecting a device’s connection to the internet, it has become necessary to transfer large amounts of data quickly that otherwise exceed what Bluetooth can accommodate.

back to top image
  翻译: