All coupons, tax, shipping, store credit and gift cards will be applied during checkout.
Please use another browser such as Chrome, Edge, Firefox, or Safari for the best experience
Photographing the Galaxies & Nebulae
×
![]()
Bring your deep sky photography skills into focus!
Being one of the biggest and brightest objects in our sky, the Moon has captured the attention of our culture since time immemorial. So, it’s no surprise that the first photographers aimed their bulky cameras at the night sky in hopes of capturing the luminous features of our cosmic companion. Since those first days of lunar photography, much has changed. If the constant innovations have you feeling dizzy, don’t worry, we’ve got you covered! Our team of astrophotography experts have been hard at work to find you the right gear for all things lunar. Whether you are just starting out, branching out, or jumping in, we have what you need to master the marvels of lunar photography.
Check Out the Basics
How far away is the Moon? Is the Moon Earth's only natural satellite? Are the phases of the Moon predictable? If you are looking for answers to these question and more, we've got the resources for you! Our astronomy hub is constantly growing with content that will keep your curiosity quenched! From imaging and processing guides to interactive lunar calendars and so much more. On the nights you can't spend imaging, stay in and explore the wonders of the Moon from the comfort of your home!
| Planetary Articles in Our AstronomyHub | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Types of Moon | What is a Blue Moon? | What is a Blood Moon? | What is a Harvest Moon? | What is a Strawberry Moon? | What is a Super Moon? |
| Moon Phases and Features | What Can You See on the Moon? | What Is a Crater? | Why Does the Moon Have Phases? | What are the Phases of the Moon? | How to Predict the Phases of the Moon |
| Imaging Basics | How to Photograph the Moon | How to Create a Lunar Mosaic | 5 Tips for Photographing the Lunar Eclipse | ||
Products We Recommend
William Bradford, speaking in 1630 of the founding of the Plymouth Bay Colony, said that all great and honorable actions are accompanied with great difficulties, and both must be enterprised and overcome with answerable courage. If this capsule history of our progress teaches us anything, it is that man, in his quest for knowledge and progress, is determined and cannot be deterred.
Telescopes
Yet the vows of this Nation can only be fulfilled if we in this Nation are first, and, therefore, we intend to be first. In short, our leadership in science and in industry, our hopes for peace and security, our obligations to ourselves as well as others, all require us to make this effort, to solve these mysteries, to solve them for the good of all men, and to become the world's leading space-faring nation.
- Product 1: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 2: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 3: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 4: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 5: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
Mounts
Yet the vows of this Nation can only be fulfilled if we in this Nation are first, and, therefore, we intend to be first. In short, our leadership in science and in industry, our hopes for peace and security, our obligations to ourselves as well as others, all require us to make this effort, to solve these mysteries, to solve them for the good of all men, and to become the world's leading space-faring nation.
- Product 1: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 2: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 3: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 4: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 5: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
Accessories
Yet the vows of this Nation can only be fulfilled if we in this Nation are first, and, therefore, we intend to be first. In short, our leadership in science and in industry, our hopes for peace and security, our obligations to ourselves as well as others, all require us to make this effort, to solve these mysteries, to solve them for the good of all men, and to become the world's leading space-faring nation.
- Product 1: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 2: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 3: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 4: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
- Product 5: We set sail on this new sea because there is new knowledge to be gained, and new rights to be won, and they must be won and used for the progress of all people.
Finding the Perfect Conditions for Astrophotography
We all know clear skies are required in order to conduct astrophotography, but are there other external factors that you should account for prior to your next imaging session? The answer is yes: the Bortle class you plan to image under, the phase of the Moon, and local seeing conditions play a huge role in the quality of the images captured.
Consider Your Bortle Class:
While a non-issue during lunar or planetary imaging, light pollution wreaks havoc on the ability to conduct other types of astrophotography. Glow from businesses, homes, and street lamps shroud light from celestial objects, making it difficult to discern detail within the captured images. The Bortle Scale gives insight into the night sky's brightness of a certain location due to light pollution. This measurement features nine (9) levels of brightness, with 9 being the brightest and 1 being the dimmest. It is important to determine the Bortle class you plan to image under, so you can get a sense of the level of brightness you're going to be dealing with. If travel is possible, it’s always best to image under skies with the lowest possible Bortle class, as the less light pollution you have to image through, the better your astrophotos will become. If travel is not an option, specialized filters can be added to your imaging train to help cut through light pollution by isolating certain wavelengths produced by emission nebulae.
Mind the Moon:
While artificial light pollution is an ongoing issue, natural light pollution is also something to bear in mind. The more illuminated the Moon becomes throughout the month, the brighter our atmosphere becomes as well. This is why it’s recommended to image during the new moon phase and to avoid targets that are near the Moon if it is present within our night sky. Scheduling astrophotography sessions around the phases of the Moon is a common practice amongst astrophotographers, as it helps uphold optimal image quality!
Assess Local Seeing Conditions:
There is a reason professional astrophysicists and astronomers send telescopes out into space—that reason being Earth’s atmosphere. Referred to as seeing conditions, the overall clarity of the night sky based on humidity, high clouds, the wind, and plenty more, play a crucial role in the quality of our astro-images. In poor seeing conditions, the object within the field of view can appear blurred and out of focus, making for lack luster photos. While blurring due to the atmosphere may not be as apparent during wide field imaging, if you’re imaging small objects such as the planets, the craters on the Moon, or distant galaxies, it is important to consider the current seeing conditions for the sharpest possible images.
How to Image Galxies
Navigating the countless ways to capture an image of our cosmic companion doesn't need to be complicated. Follow along with the basic imaging guide below to learn how to use your gear to capture the lunar photograph you've been dreaming of!
Still waiting for your gear to arrive?
Click the box below to download a package of complimentary data and follow along with our processing tutorial! When the time comes to process your own data, you’ll have already mastered the post-process workflow!
Box with embedded Klaviyo form.
Tips & Tricks
For this style of lunar photograph, you'll follow a straightforward process to capture a single image of the Moon. Don’t let the simplicity fool you, these photos often look great!
By stacking multiple frames you can create a stunning image of the Moon! This is a great method for those looking to learn the ins and outs of of advanced image processing.
Get the best of both sides of the Moon with the High Dynamic Range method! By combining elements from multiple photos you can craft a composite image that balances the bright and dark areas of the lunar surface.
Overview of Settings
The first step to capturing an image of the Moon is to understand how to control your camera. While there is variation between models, every DSLR, Mirrorless, and astrophotography camera uses the same elementary settings: ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture, and File type.
Here’s what you need to know about your camera’s settings to successfully photograph the Moon:
ISO
ISO is the name of the standardized numerical system used to define the sensitivity of your camera sensor to incoming light. Increasing the value of this setting increases the sensitivity of the sensor. When imaging the Moon, you (almost always) want to shoot with the lowest ISO values possible (50-800). Higher ISO settings (1600+) result in unnecessary noise, making the image appear grainy and poorly defined. The only exception to this rule is when using the HDR method to build a composite of the dark and light faces of the Moon.
Shutter Speed
The shutter speed setting controls how long the lens aperture stays open when taking an image. When imaging the Moon without a tracking mount, you’ll need to shoot at faster speeds, as it prevents the image from being over exposed and blurry. If you are tracking the Moon with a motorized mount, you’ll be able to lower the shutter speed and ISO, because the mount corrects the movement caused by the rotation of the Earth. Faster speeds will result in better quality images.
Aperture
The aperture setting, or f-stop, controls the size of the lens aperture. This setting controls both the amount of light reaching your sensor and the depth of field. When imaging the Moon, it’s best to increase the f-stop value, as it will prevent your image from being over exposed. Additionally, increasing this setting will make more of the image appear in focus, which results in properly focused images of the Moon.
File Type
Roughly speaking, file type refers to the instructions your camera uses to process the data received by the sensor. Some file types (jpeg & png) compress the data received by the sensor, while others (RAW) preserve all the information. When imaging the Moon, more data means more details, so it’s best to set the file type to RAW.
Set Up
Once you’ve mastered the settings, the next step is setting up. Your set-up procedure will depend on the equipment you are using. It’s a good idea to practice setting up (and breaking down) in a well-lit area before your imaging session. This will increase your step-up efficiency, meaning more time spent imaging. A general step-up procedure will involve finding the imaging location, checking the lens/scope for dust and smudges, securing the camera on your tripod or tracking mount, polar aligning your mount (if necessary), finding the Moon, and framing your shot.
What's next?
After setting up, capturing your images, and breaking down, all that’s left is processing the data. Upload the image files to your computer and start editing! If you need help, we got you covered, check out our full guide by accessing our "How to Photograph the Moon" article.
How to Image Nebulae
Navigating the countless ways to capture an image of our cosmic companion doesn't need to be complicated. Follow along with the basic imaging guide below to learn how to use your gear to capture the lunar photograph you've been dreaming of!
Still waiting for your gear to arrive?
Click the box below to download a package of complimentary data and follow along with our processing tutorial! When the time comes to process your own data, you’ll have already mastered the post-process workflow!
Box with embedded Klaviyo form.
Color Pallets
For this style of lunar photograph, you'll follow a straightforward process to capture a single image of the Moon. Don’t let the simplicity fool you, these photos often look great!
By stacking multiple frames you can create a stunning image of the Moon! This is a great method for those looking to learn the ins and outs of of advanced image processing.
Get the best of both sides of the Moon with the High Dynamic Range method! By combining elements from multiple photos you can craft a composite image that balances the bright and dark areas of the lunar surface.
Overview of Settings
The first step to capturing an image of the Moon is to understand how to control your camera. While there is variation between models, every DSLR, Mirrorless, and astrophotography camera uses the same elementary settings: ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture, and File type.
Here’s what you need to know about your camera’s settings to successfully photograph the Moon:
ISO
ISO is the name of the standardized numerical system used to define the sensitivity of your camera sensor to incoming light. Increasing the value of this setting increases the sensitivity of the sensor. When imaging the Moon, you (almost always) want to shoot with the lowest ISO values possible (50-800). Higher ISO settings (1600+) result in unnecessary noise, making the image appear grainy and poorly defined. The only exception to this rule is when using the HDR method to build a composite of the dark and light faces of the Moon.
Shutter Speed
The shutter speed setting controls how long the lens aperture stays open when taking an image. When imaging the Moon without a tracking mount, you’ll need to shoot at faster speeds, as it prevents the image from being over exposed and blurry. If you are tracking the Moon with a motorized mount, you’ll be able to lower the shutter speed and ISO, because the mount corrects the movement caused by the rotation of the Earth. Faster speeds will result in better quality images.
Aperture
The aperture setting, or f-stop, controls the size of the lens aperture. This setting controls both the amount of light reaching your sensor and the depth of field. When imaging the Moon, it’s best to increase the f-stop value, as it will prevent your image from being over exposed. Additionally, increasing this setting will make more of the image appear in focus, which results in properly focused images of the Moon.
File Type
Roughly speaking, file type refers to the instructions your camera uses to process the data received by the sensor. Some file types (jpeg & png) compress the data received by the sensor, while others (RAW) preserve all the information. When imaging the Moon, more data means more details, so it’s best to set the file type to RAW.
Set Up
Once you’ve mastered the settings, the next step is setting up. Your set-up procedure will depend on the equipment you are using. It’s a good idea to practice setting up (and breaking down) in a well-lit area before your imaging session. This will increase your step-up efficiency, meaning more time spent imaging. A general step-up procedure will involve finding the imaging location, checking the lens/scope for dust and smudges, securing the camera on your tripod or tracking mount, polar aligning your mount (if necessary), finding the Moon, and framing your shot.
What's next?
After setting up, capturing your images, and breaking down, all that’s left is processing the data. Upload the image files to your computer and start editing! If you need help, we got you covered, check out our full guide by accessing our "How to Photograph the Moon" article.
Galaxy Imaging FAQ: What You Need to Know
Intro
What is astrophotography?
Broadly speaking, any image of a celestial object in the night sky could be considered an astrophotograph—from the Milky Way, the Moon, other planets in our solar system, to galaxies, star clusters, nebulae and more! While the process and equipment used for capturing all these objects can differ, all these fall within the same exciting and ever expanding amateur astrophotography hobby.
What goes into making an astrophotograph? How do we capture these images?
This process varies depending on what we’re trying to image, but on a basic level, an object is tracked across the sky while data is collected by the camera, and then this data is all combined into a single image through a process known as stacking. This process allows us to capture fine, faint details that only reveal themselves with enough time spent imaging/recording a target!
Nebulae Imaging FAQ: What You Need to Know
Intro
What is astrophotography?
Broadly speaking, any image of a celestial object in the night sky could be considered an astrophotograph—from the Milky Way, the Moon, other planets in our solar system, to galaxies, star clusters, nebulae and more! While the process and equipment used for capturing all these objects can differ, all these fall within the same exciting and ever expanding amateur astrophotography hobby.
What goes into making an astrophotograph? How do we capture these images?
This process varies depending on what we’re trying to image, but on a basic level, an object is tracked across the sky while data is collected by the camera, and then this data is all combined into a single image through a process known as stacking. This process allows us to capture fine, faint details that only reveal themselves with enough time spent imaging/recording a target!
Planetary Imaging Terms To Know
Aperture
Aperture is the diameter of a telescope's primary mirror or lens listed in millimeters or inches. The bigger the aperture of a telescope, the more light it will gather, allowing the observer to see more detail on celestial objects and ascertain finer details that a telescope of lesser aperture may not see.
Dobsonian Telescope
The Dobsonian telescope consists of a Newtonian reflector optical tube assembly mounted on a very simple alt-azimuth box-style mount with a lazy susan base. This base was invented by John Dobson to encourage people to make their own telescopes from start to finish. Up until that time, telescopes required a heavy equatorial mount that produced a financial or weight barrier for some otherwise enthusiastic budding astronomers. John Dobson and his base changed all that, and even today, Dobsonian telescopes still provide the most light-gathering dollar for dollar.
EdgeHD Telescope
EdgeHD is Celestron's top of the line flat field aplanatic Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope series. You can buy a variety of apertures, from 8 to 14 inches, as an OTA or as part of a telescope/mount package. EdgeHD telescopes are great for visual use but they really shine for astrophotography. With a wide field of view that is three times flatter than a standard SCT, you will see beautiful, pinpoint stars across the entire field, even if you have a full frame (35 mm) CMOS or CCD camera sensor to satisfy.
Eyepiece
An eyepiece is a group of lenses housed in a small package that is closest to the eye when used with a telescope, microscope, or spotting scope. The eyepiece provides a particular magnification when paired with a telescope, therefore most amateur astronomers use a variety of eyepieces to change magnification for different types of objects. The eyepiece nomenclature is expressed in its focal length in millimeters. To figure out the magnification, simply divide the focal length of the eyepiece into the focal length of the telescope. The result is the magnification provided in your particular telescope or one with the same focal length.
Finder Scope
A finder scope fits on top of the main telescope and is used to help you find and center objects in your eyepiece. A finder can be as simple as a red dot finder or it can be a high quality small telescope in its own right.
Focal Length
The focal length is the distance, usually measured in millimeters, between the primary mirror or lens and the point at which the image comes to focus. Generally, classic refractors have a longer focal length, Newtonian reflectors tend to have a focal length that is shorter, and Schmidt-Cassegrain fall somewhere in the middle.
Focal Ratio
The focal ratio is calculated by dividing the aperture (mm) of the primary mirror or lens into the focal length. Example: 2500 mm divided by 254 mm (10") equals an f/ratio of 9.84, which is usually rounded off, in this case to f/10. The focal ratio signifies how quickly a telescope gathers light and tells us something about the telescope's field of view, how long exposures will take during astrophotography sessions, and how much magnification the eyepiece will produce for that telescope.
Highest Useful Magnification
The term Highest Useful Magnification is used by telescope manufacturers to describe the most magnification you can typically be expected to use on a normal night and still bring an image to sharp focus. A basic rule of thumb for maximum magnification is 40X-50X per inch of aperture, with max magnifications generally topping out at 500X or so regardless of the aperture. You will find that maximums vary depending on the night. Observing conditions change constantly and will cause a once sharp view to become blurry or allow a blurry view to clear up in seconds. It is the nature of telescope observing on a planet with an atmosphere.
Imaging Newtonian
An Imaging Newtonian is a fast reflector telescope that is normally optimized for astrophotography or astro-imaging. Most Imaging Newtonian telescopes have an f/5 focal ratio or less, and some are not meant for visual use at all but rather, were designed to be dedicated imaging telescopes. It is common to find fast imaging Newtonian reflectors for sale as optical tube assemblies only, allowing the astro-imager to use his choice of equatorial mount.
OTA
The acronym OTA stands for Optical Tube Assembly. An OTA is simply the telescope portion of a telescope/mount/tripod package. Some telescope users prefer to buy the OTA separately so they can create a custom astrophotography set-up or use a mount they already own.
Reflector Telescope
A reflector is a telescope design in which mirrors are used to gather and focus light. Reflector telescopes are commonly called Newtonian Reflectors, or simply a Newtonian in deference to their inventor, Sir Isaac Newton.
Refractor Telescope
A refractor is a telescope design that uses lenses to gather and focus light. While there are some exceptions to the rule, achromatic refractors use two lenses in their design, and while they are economical, achromats are only capable of focusing two out of three wavelengths of light. An APO telescope, or apochromatic refractor, uses 3 lenses to bring all three wavelengths of light to a single focus to produce an image virtually free of extraneous color.
SCT
The acronym SCT stands for Schmidt-Cassegrain Telescope, one of the most popular telescope designs in amateur astronomy today. A Schmidt-Cassegrain, which belongs more broadly to the Catadioptric telescope type, uses a folded optical design incorporating both mirrors and lenses to gather and bring the light to focus. The folded light path allows for a short tube assembly even with relatively large apertures of 8" or more. A shorter tube length makes the SCT far more portable than a classic Newtonian or refractor of the same aperture.